What have you done to your XS today?

Ordered key blanks. Way to nail down the date, Vogue1990...

Screen_Shot_2018-12-14_at_11_54_21_AM by michael delage, on Flickr

Must be coming from China. For what it’s worth, last year I was looking to get a spare key made for my ‘77 and none of the local hardware stores had blanks for it. Someone suggested going to a locksmith shop, which I did, and their selection of blanks was much deeper. They cut me a key in about 5 minutes for the same cost as your blanks. I was surprised.
 
Today I finally got my Omar’s kit and wheels mounted. It’s been a long time coming with the full wheel refurbish. Another step closer to finishing this project.

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It’s not a great pic , but all I have with the wheels mounted righ now.

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I now realize I need a little shorter shocks and also to address my side stand, as neither are practical or functional at this stance. Shocks are mike’s 14” Monza junk, so I need to upgrade them anyhow
 
Here’s a couple of older pictures. I’m still on the fence with the exhaust. The yomama pipes will need modified a bit to run the cone mufflers like this as they are too close together and will contact each other. I’m leaning more towards either ascott or stock headers with a kick up and the cone mufflers.

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High of 51 here today. I replaced all my instrument bulbs this morning with the new chinese LED bulbs. Called my buddy up and we rode a little over 100 miles this afternoon. Got a little chilly toward the end, but it was much needed. My brake light indicator is constantly on now. It worked properly with the incandescent bulbs since I bought it, and it burned out A couple months ago. After changing thw bulbs this morning it is constantly on when you turn the key, like the neutral light. It gets brighter when I hit the brakes, so it technically still serves its purpose, it’s just bugging me that it’s not working like it used to. Anyone have any guesses as to why this might be? Is it maybe the lower draw of the new LED bulbs?
 
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Yes, probably more resistance in the circuit to make the indicator happy or you could remove that bulb. That's probably what I would do.... On those exhaust pieces , IF you go with something different, I would be interested in that set-up. I think they look great and have been considering getting just that same set and mufflers like that! Just let me know a price and maybe we can work something out.......
 
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Made this 2yrs a go to remove the pistons from the calipers of my TX750, same calipers as XS. The airline failed.
For the really stubborn pistons. Split the calipers in two fasten one half to the gizmo, with seal in place. Use grease gun to force out the piston. If this fails, your in a fix.
 
Put my clutch back together after replacing the cush drive springs in the basket. Went to a friends place on the weekend to drill out the pins, has a proper drill press, not the harbour freight special that I have. Installing the new springs is a little tricky, but went ok after I figured it out. Not too sure of the bolts that came in the kit, but used them due to clearance issues front and back. Had to grind down the button heads a little, they rub on the centre hub otherwise. Other than that all went together as it should. I have done a few of these motors and this is the first time I have seen broken springs, and it is a 6 plate. Now I just have to wait 3 months for the rainy season to end to go for a test ride.
 
Painted those valve covers that the anodizing didn't take with VHT engine black, and installed all 8 covers. Smedspeed.co.uk 's spacer plate never showed (5 weeks and counting), so I'm not totally done with the motor...

IMG_1586 by michael delage, on Flickr

Put on my Banggood braided brake line, what an amazing deal. I bought a similar hose for my Norton, $130. Banggood, $9. Does make the caliper and spokes look ratty, though...

IMG_1587 by michael delage, on Flickr
 
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