Clutches for the less strong?

I have often contemplated some kind of assist spring like the '60's Mustangs had. Definitely agree on the comments here as far as the cable and lube go but I had to put in some heavier springs (I think I now have 3 stock and 3 heavier ones) and would love to get it back to the stock lever pull or less.
 
Magura has hydraulic system for streetbike clutch cables. I have same setup on my trials bike. Easy conversion...pinkie can pull lever then.
 
I did my own hydro conversion. I can't compare to a stock XS because I've never ridden one. I can say to me it feels comparable to any newer bike I've messed with except ducati, those are a grip strengthening experience.

My set up is a 13mm master cylinder and a 1" piston in the slave. Unfortunately I don't have a scale to check the pull.
 

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I never thought my bike was difficult to pull, but then my Norton takes two men and a strong boy to pull in the clutch. Very common with the old Atlas setup. I just purchased a new teflon lined cable from Venhill which is waiting for all new clutch and primary parts before I install. Didn’t even think to look and see what Motion Pro offered.
 
I'm glad I posted this question when I did. I recently bought a 650 Special. I'm working on the title mess now. The first thing on the fix list is the front brakes. Some clutch work will be next. Mailman said, "I also rebuilt my clutch about a year ago and put in slightly lighter clutch springs, which did not affect performance at all." Where do I get lighter springs?

Thanks,
HH
 
HappyHunter said:
Mailman said, "I also rebuilt my clutch about a year ago and put in slightly lighter clutch springs, which did not affect performance at all." Where do I get lighter springs?
Thanks,
HH
Click to expand...

I’ve bought two sets of these on EBay. I’ve never had any slippage or performance issues. But I’ll tell you the single best improvement for both of my bikes clutches, was a well oiled new Motion Pro clutch cable and a cleaned up and well greased worm gear.
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Those EBC springs are actually supposed to be a little stiffer than stock (10%). But I agree, take care of the cable and worm, and the "too stiff" clutch issue is usually cured. Good cable routing without any kinks or super tight bends also is important.
 
Clutch cable routing. Bob do you run the clutch cable in between the intake boots ? Or outside the left carb ? Curious, I’ve had them all outside the carb but have seen on site there may actually be reason to run inboard
Thx,-:umm:
 
I think it changed over the years, between the carbs with the BS38s, on the outside with the BS34s.
 
Machine said:
Clutch cable routing. Bob do you run the clutch cable in between the intake boots ? Or outside the left carb ? Curious, I’ve had them all outside the carb but have seen on site there may actually be reason to run inboard
Thx,-:umm:
Click to expand...

Right down the middle between the carbs. I followed the factory guides.
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I'm wondering if a high-quality gun oil like Break Free, which has silicone and Teflon in it would work well also. I've got a bunch of that in an needle oiler bottle that would be simple enough to inject down the cable...
 
Scottrt said:
I'm wondering if a high-quality gun oil like Break Free, which has silicone and Teflon in it would work well also. I've got a bunch of that in an needle oiler bottle that would be simple enough to inject down the cable...
Click to expand...

It won’t hurt to try it. I use Tri Flow from the hardware store.
 
With a name like Break Free, does it have solvent in it? You just need good old slippery oil. Most of us hang the cable up and drip motor oil through the cable sheath until it drips out the other end.
 
Motor oil works the treat. It's slick and lasts a long time. Lighter oils are slick enough but don't last as long. Tend to run out the lower end.
I use either the 20W50 I use in the bikes are if I'm out I use the 10W30 I use in the van. Never noticed much difference. Perhaps a synthetic oil might slick it up better. Might just buy a quart of some in a 5W30 to try.
Leo
 
Tungsten disulfide mixed with the oil, I'm like a broken record.
Used it today while re-doing the worm gear on WJL I felt the difference was quite noticeable. It has an affinity for plastics and rubber so it put it on the dry parts then add a bit more to the appropriate lube, moly grease on the worm.
Yes fairly heavy oil in the cables, 20 or 30 base weight, or gravity sends it down and out too quickly. Get too thick like gear oil or grease and it can gum up in cold weather.
 
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