What have you done to your XS today?

First time outside for several months to lose fit a few parts to see how the build is looking

D546A43F-B610-4F00-812E-9687D3149F8F.jpeg
 
Ok, re-set my valve lash back to .003 intake and .006 exhaust this morning. Then I finally got my EMGO commandos installed. I used Willis’s method- using the middle sized of the 3 spacers that come with the mufflers along with the exact same exhaust adapters Willis snagged from the local auto parts store. Took it for about a 15 mile spin and happy to report no rejetting needed. They do make the bike look cleaner, though the sound leaves something to be desired. At least they arent rusty, and they probably weigh less than the stock exhaust. I will have to wait until tomorrow to post, because I am excited to take some pics and make a good write up for my exhaust mounting method; I think I figured out an economical but rock solid method for utilizing the track mounts- stay tuned!
 
Last edited:
I had a set of those or similar the only issue I had was when I had to remove the rear wheel I had to take the exhaust off as the end of the exhaust was past the rear spindle bolt
 
I had a set of those or similar the only issue I had was when I had to remove the rear wheel I had to take the exhaust off as the end of the exhaust was past the rear spindle bolt
Aah Schucks.. Somebody just has to tell about the whole wheel , axle , brake and all just coming straight out the rear..
No muffler removal necessary..
:D
Seen that before when I sold a bike to a new owner. And o'boy did he like hearing that also about a month later when I stopped by and looked at those 77 pipes again :laughing:
 
Well, today I got 125 deg. of knee bend AND 3 km on the bike AND I climbed a bunch of stairs soooo....
  • I put the batteries back in all of my bikes (including the redoubtable Lucille :yikes: )
  • I started the ST1300 and wrestled her out of the garden shed and then rode her out to the front and put her in the garage (sorry about your car, wifey);
  • Tomorrow, I might actually get Lucille or the SV650 out and go for a little boot.
I’m back baby - I’m ridin’ again!
 
I think the issue isnt actually removing the wheel, but properly torquing the axle when reassembling. There’s not really any way around having the torque wrench straight outside of the axle is there? Could you use a crows foot extension? Do they make them that big?
Aah Schucks.. Somebody just has to tell about the whole wheel , axle , brake and all just coming straight out the rear..
No muffler removal necessary..
:D
Seen that before when I sold a bike to a new owner. And o'boy did he like hearing that also about a month later when I stopped by and looked at those 77 pipes again :laughing:
 
530C97BC-91C1-4AE8-A0D3-4A0B6EA7A501.jpeg
Ok, also, I attempted my track mount solution but it didnt end up working. I thought I could sandwich some nuts underneath these, which fit perfectly inside the track, to fashion my own cheap slide brackets instead of buying mike’s for 5.00 a piece, but with the indentations they are too thick to allow any of the nuts at the hardware store to fit between. I just didnt want to pay shipping at mikes and wait, but another 17.00 or so will be worth it to have them securely mounted.
 
I think the issue isnt actually removing the wheel, but properly torquing the axle when reassembling. There’s not really any way around having the torque wrench straight outside of the axle is there? Could you use a crows foot extension?
Dang it, here I go again with my own precision torque calibrated hands technique.
Really, a torque wrench on the rear axle ?
This 27mm box end makes the job quick and easy. ;)
20190318_205912.jpg
 
Dang it, here I go again with my own precision torque calibrated hands technique.
Really, a torque wrench on the rear axle ?
This 27mm box end makes the job quick and easy. ;)View attachment 137125

Ya, I can't recall the last time I torqued the axle nuts on any of my bikes...I just crank it down hard and line up the cotter pin hole. Maybe not "technically" correct, but hasn't failed me in over 20+ yrs. :)
 
...I just crank it down hard and line up the cotter pin hole.
Yup. Just get 'er good and tight. Yamaha calls for 100 ft. lbs. (I think). That's not how you do a castle nut.... you need a torque range. Lets say 90-110 ft. lbs. You tighten the nut to min. value... 90 in this case. Reset the wrench to the max value... 110. Now you tighten the nut 'till you can get a cotter pin to fit without the wrench clicking at max. That way you stay within the torque range and still get a cotter pin in there. Without a range to fall within, the odds of lining up a cotter pin hole on a specific value are pretty low. Just crank 'er down tight. ;)
 
Don't need no stinking torque wrench for the castle nut.......Sure there may be a torque setting but think of all the bikes that have had punctures and repaired on the side of the road for the last 100 odd years........The tools in the tool kit will do the job as provided and they don't have a setting
 
Exactly, just make it tight, then a bit tighter to align the cotter pin hole. I lucked out with mine. Through a combination of longer rear shocks and headpipes that kick up on the ends, my axle sets below the mufflers. I don't need to pull a muffler to get the axle out or to tighten the axle nut .....

8xen8Ef.jpg
 
Last edited:
What years did the swing arm have the removable plate so the wheel, brake and axle all slide out together ??
tim
 
'74-'80, TX750 swingarms too. But what nobody has mentioned is you need to break the chain to do this, a messy operation at best. I would rather pull a muffler off, lol.
 
Back
Top