5T, while you’re here, I’ve been trying to find out, where did you get those brass nipples for doing the clear tube float checks? I went to the hardware store today but no luck.
 
If you can't wait; metric zerks drill the ball out, add a couple washers to seal the thread, work pretty good. 90 degree type are nice but; aiming the barb on the 90d type can be a bit of a challenge...
 
Another "if you cant wait option"... modified M8-1 bolt with M5 (or 10-32) barb fitting...

_t-uqNsnR-RWrqPT95Jlw6S6KrTv_D9RxnllPoIy7VId27bbreMxB6lFZAgaa0ltmBUt3SslT4xn3_-BU5iQj6dkPe5mUTbnNaBgomscUHPjUzT0he2KzZEYgtQmz9oN6VRuzzBD-G3yrNz3Lgt0K0coj1YPJMjDyKm0j6iS_2sCLeUBIEzOgT4tq8Dl0b22W2gEuNQRsTnGb77db4Km7s7NLBikECwpsgj4u0Ou_a96bp6gQlKrGN1f0QSDYBniGSgqdSvNx-r7_hUMZS__KE7Zye6_eweZ51b_IdL3bfzWZVDqlDT8BqNhPhzJFtt8oG7O3sfpz-UGPSO9aPvd-x-KklLFlHpsLjR6hq0jLHrO9WFghKgV0jj57buFbd8qaq9Hj6uaNuHmkA9K-u92i71tikAVQm9lRV2FccCJInHPWPYOKhdEdqQrVt9I-je2rIWbusZxLejOkLRV8VggtWihnFMX0h8B2Bc-Ys_RnvEnghA_5WFJlXwDYiSJxnZI7ZUpApXT3mFsm0oOQXj7RjdY9DP4eaoaUea5wZ1QqM6SNDJEyjL3uQ20cqaJKf82LDUW7HhaOTmJXgXPKSKMdmbJ1C1UTIzHmv9ZimjhKFMg58y_21MN4inLBc3d1_oe31NF56LUIIKCf-SdUNAH47e8R13d4l_5=w903-h867-no
 

Thank You 5Twins, that’s just what I needed!

If you can't wait; metric zerks drill the ball out, add a couple washers to seal the thread, work pretty good. 90 degree type are nice but; aiming the barb on the 90d type can be a bit of a challenge...

Another "if you cant wait option"... modified M8-1 bolt with M5 (or 10-32) barb fitting...

_t-uqNsnR-RWrqPT95Jlw6S6KrTv_D9RxnllPoIy7VId27bbreMxB6lFZAgaa0ltmBUt3SslT4xn3_-BU5iQj6dkPe5mUTbnNaBgomscUHPjUzT0he2KzZEYgtQmz9oN6VRuzzBD-G3yrNz3Lgt0K0coj1YPJMjDyKm0j6iS_2sCLeUBIEzOgT4tq8Dl0b22W2gEuNQRsTnGb77db4Km7s7NLBikECwpsgj4u0Ou_a96bp6gQlKrGN1f0QSDYBniGSgqdSvNx-r7_hUMZS__KE7Zye6_eweZ51b_IdL3bfzWZVDqlDT8BqNhPhzJFtt8oG7O3sfpz-UGPSO9aPvd-x-KklLFlHpsLjR6hq0jLHrO9WFghKgV0jj57buFbd8qaq9Hj6uaNuHmkA9K-u92i71tikAVQm9lRV2FccCJInHPWPYOKhdEdqQrVt9I-je2rIWbusZxLejOkLRV8VggtWihnFMX0h8B2Bc-Ys_RnvEnghA_5WFJlXwDYiSJxnZI7ZUpApXT3mFsm0oOQXj7RjdY9DP4eaoaUea5wZ1QqM6SNDJEyjL3uQ20cqaJKf82LDUW7HhaOTmJXgXPKSKMdmbJ1C1UTIzHmv9ZimjhKFMg58y_21MN4inLBc3d1_oe31NF56LUIIKCf-SdUNAH47e8R13d4l_5=w903-h867-no

Gary and Oddjob, those are some good “ can’t wait options” thanks.

I think I have time , I need to accumulate a few things, then I think they might be a post surgery / recovery project.
Better than sitting in a recliner watching Judge Judy re runs! ;)
 
Getting a bald spot from scratching my head here, I'll assume new float valves and seats? I'll go a step further and assume one or both aren't seating properly. A round tuit of mine; I have often meant to make a float test rig with a supply tank of mineral spirits, valve, fuel line, a small pan and way to hold the carb. An outboard "squeeze bulb" return line would be the cats PJ's. you wouldn't need the float bowl on the carb, so the set, check, adjust, cycle would be fast and painless.
Also I keep meaning to find the right needle with a viton tip to replace the all steel bs38 stocker. 5T recently mentioned a couple "may fits".
Grab a q-tip, some chrome polish and a drill and hit those seats a few times? What I do if I'm not replacing seats.
 
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Getting a bald spot from scratching my head here, I'll assume new float valves and seats? I'll go a step further and assume one or both aren't seating properly. A round tuit of mine; I have often meant to make a float test rig with a supply tank of mineral spirits, valve, fuel line, a small pan and way to hold the carb. An outboard "squeeze bulb" return line would be the cats PJ's. you wouldn't need the float bowl on the carb, so the set, check, adjust, cycle would be fast and painless.
Also I keep meaning to find the right needle with a viton tip to replace the all steel bs38 stocker. 5T recently mentioned a couple "may fits".
Grab a q-tip, some chrome polish and a drill and hit those seats a few times? What I do if I'm not replacing seats.

Yes needle and seats were all new OEM because I didn’t want to chase problems after getting the bike running. Even though it was overkill, I put all new genuine Mikuni or OEM parts through out. As some of you have suggested it could’ve been a fluke. I am going to get the things I need to do a fuel level check with the clear tube method.
 
As some of you have suggested it could’ve been a fluke.

Bob: I wonder if the leak would settle down after a few minutes of running....
Would be Easy to try to flush out the debris with the drains removed and turning the gas supply on and off ? Tap on the float bowls too while trying to "shake it loose" ?
Stuff a board under the front tire to level it all.
Good luck Bob !!
 
Well, everything is apart and on the bench, so I will go through the whole set up procedure again. Check and double check float levels. Ordering stuff today for a clear tube set up.

On another note, I haven’t forgotten about my stiff clutch, as long as I have the gas tanks off of both bikes, I’m going to swap my Motion Pro cable over to my XS2 and check the difference.
I’m also going to throw a little money at Mr Monkey Claw and get a used XS400 clutch actuator and give that a try.
I might even buy a little bottle of that magic pixie dust lubricant that Gary is always crowing about. I’m gonna throw everything at bringing down the effort on that clutch lever.
I’m gonna go all 2M on it!
F6264FE4-CF0C-425D-8134-5D9EB4F8E588.jpeg
 
Make sure you're checking your floats by measuring from both sides, measuring twice so to speak. Many float assemblies are twisted or tweaked and one side sits higher or lower than the other. I find this quite often on old ones but it wouldn't surprise me if new ones might come this way as well.
 
Just wondering how your starter plunger looks, is it seating well if not it will run rich.. How does the rubber pad look. When I listened to your start up it sounded like the choke was on.I only use the chock for a short time and then put a piece of paper between the throttle stop screw and throttle lever(which raises the rpm) until it warms up. Did you sync the cables so they are lifting at the same time. Are you able to check the vacuum and adjust so both are pulling the same, then adjust your cables. Make sure your start the pilot screws at 1 turn out. Mine are very fussy and will cause it to run rich if not adjusted right.
 
Have you checked the floats for leaks? Yeah, they're new, but check them while you can, before assembly.

Scott

Yeah, I’ll give them the old hot water dunk test, just to be sure.

Just wondering how your starter plunger looks, is it seating well if not it will run rich.. How does the rubber pad look. When I listened to your start up it sounded like the choke was on.I only use the chock for a short time and then put a piece of paper between the throttle stop screw and throttle lever(which raises the rpm) until it warms up. Did you sync the cables so they are lifting at the same time. Are you able to check the vacuum and adjust so both are pulling the same, then adjust your cables. Make sure your start the pilot screws at 1 turn out. Mine are very fussy and will cause it to run rich if not adjusted right.

The starter plunger is new, should be ok, but I will look at it. I did use the choke, but only for initial start up. The cables were synced and the air screws were set at 3/4 turn back out from all the way in. I did not install vacuum ports for a manometer, but am considering putting a couple in my intake manifolds.
 
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