Front Leg Studs

Shipper · Apr 12, 2019

Here's a bad rookie foobar. Can anyone tell me if its possible to heat the axle cap studs up and twist them out of the leg? Can't believe this has happened to me but it is what it is. I truly think they were sketchy from the outset but lack of attention has clearly made the situation worse. The legs are aluminum and the studs are steel right? So they should twist out with a little muscle and a little heat, right?

Please advise.

GLJ · Apr 12, 2019

Yes they should. Soak in penetrating fluid overnight. Use heat if needed, be very careful with the heat. Aluminum has a much lower melting point than steel.

Shipper · Apr 12, 2019

GLJ said:
Yes they should. Soak in penetrating fluid overnight. Use heat if needed, be very careful with the heat. Aluminum has a much lower melting point than steel.

Not wanting to take them off the bike if at all possible. I can still soak them with a jar of penetrating fluid. Advisable to drain them first??

GLJ · Apr 12, 2019

Sure use a jar to soak them. If you have to use much heat you will need to drain and flush. If you haven't changed fork oil in awhile this would be a good time.

Jim · Apr 12, 2019

If you have access to a welder, weld a nut to the stud. Makes removal a breeze.

KennyD77 · Apr 12, 2019

GLJ said:
Yes they should. Soak in penetrating fluid overnight. Use heat if needed, be very careful with the heat. Aluminum has a much lower melting point than steel.

Best penetrating oil I have ever used is Kroil. Can be hard to find but well worth it. Perhaps look on the net for it. Also, 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Sworn to me by tractor junkies that resurrect some really old time stuff.

Mailman · Apr 12, 2019

GLJ said:
be very careful with the heat. Aluminum has a much lower melting point than steel.

Yeah aluminum is really tricky to heat with a torch. It gives you no indication that it’s getting hot, unlike steel, there is red glow as it heats.
When I worked in a fleet garage as a welder,
One of the mechanics wanted me to heat some big heavy aluminum housing up to free a stuck bolt. So I’m heating and heating, the housing never changed appearance, it just suddenly melted and collapsed! Oops!

Ratranger · Apr 12, 2019

Use propane to heat aluminum. Acetylene gets into it and changes it. Not sure how, but thats what the aerospace welders I work with say. If they use the wrong torch it's scrap.

gggGary · Apr 13, 2019

weld the nut like Jim sez, Be ready to go with a socket while the stud is still hot from welding, otherwise double nut then; heat the stud not the aluminum.
They were assembled with "locktite", penetrating oil will have little effect. I'd remove the leg first, maybe 20 minutes to the bench. Not least because with the leg upside down in the vice the fork oil won't be sitting right there.

kshansen · Apr 13, 2019

gggGary said:
weld the nut like Jim sez, Be ready to go with a socket while the stud is still hot from welding, otherwise double nut then; heat the stud not the aluminum.

One thing, while in many cases it is best to leave something cool down before trying to remove something like a broken stud. When dealing with steel into aluminum you have to remember that the rate of expansion for aluminum is more than steel. So the steel will not "grow" as much as the aluminum when heated to the same temperature.

And if, like gggGary says, they are installed with something like Lock-tite heating to around 350º will usually break the bond at least till it cools back down.

Jim · Apr 13, 2019

gggGary said:
Not least because with the leg upside down in the vice.....

When you clamp it in the vice, clamp just the very bottom. The hollow, cast aluminum tube can be converted to a boat anchor very easily. :yikes:

Mailman · Apr 13, 2019

Jim said:
When you clamp it in the vice, clamp just the very bottom. The hollow, cast aluminum tube can be converted to a boat anchor very easily.

Which is what someone before me did to my XS2, thereby ruining both of them. :cussing:

Shipper · Apr 13, 2019

gggGary said:
weld the nut like Jim sez, Be ready to go with a socket while the stud is still hot from welding, otherwise double nut then; heat the stud not the aluminum.
They were assembled with "locktite", penetrating oil will have little effect. I'd remove the leg first, maybe 20 minutes to the bench. Not least because with the leg upside down in the vice the fork oil won't be sitting right there.

Mailman said:
Which is what someone before me did to my XS2, thereby ruining both of them.

So, took all advice (and G's) legs off, into the shop tomorrow. Thanks crew.

Mickster · Apr 13, 2019

Not meaning to hijack this thread. And this question is sort of on topic.

The two studs on mine were also stripped. I managed to get them out. Unable to find replacement studs I cleaned up the threads in the tube and used two long bolts to hold the axle cap on.

Is this a wrong thing to do? Will there be some problems with that set up?

gggGary · Apr 13, 2019

It's longevity and ease of assembly thing, running dirty bolts in out of aluminum will eventually create problems (strip out) the aluminum threads.

Shipper · Apr 13, 2019

gggGary said:
It's longevity and ease of assembly thing, running dirty bolts in out of aluminum will eventually create problems (strip out) the aluminum threads.

Check out Partzilla - that's where I ordered mine from OEM, $5.62 + shipping. Or, just enter the part Number and see who might have them quicker.

Jim · Apr 13, 2019

Mickster said:
Unable to find replacement studs.........

Partzilla has 'em. Kinda spendy at five and half bucks each.... but they're available.

gggGary · Apr 13, 2019

long bolts with full length threads, run a nut on them locktite and install in the tube with the cap on, cut the head off the bolts, Removing the nut will clean up the threads at the cut, done.

Shipper · Apr 15, 2019

gggGary said:
long bolts with full length threads, run a nut on them locktite and install in the tube with the cap on, cut the head off the bolts, Removing the nut will clean up the threads at the cut, done.

Ya, this always busts my balls. Never forget, try the easy way first. After all the stress about busting studs that are frozen etc., I took the leg off (good advice in the normal course of events) anticipating the use of heat etc., and sure enough, the studs twisted out in tact with vice grips and some careful muscle. Just as well, no damage and a quick re and re with Partzilla.

XSLeo · Apr 16, 2019

If you want to add a bit of heat and not worry so much about melting then use a heat gun. Looks like hair drier but put out much more heat. I have one from Harbor Freight. They have several models. Don't get the cheapest, They will burn out. Go for the middle priced one.
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