Hey all!

Machine said:
Carbs, Airbox, Fuel petcocks, Speedo, etc..
Many of those items being removed from your Bobber build are still sought after by other XS members.
Keep the classifieds here in mind ?
Click to expand...

Hi Chris,
don't Machine's post remind you of Vultures in the trees just waiting for your project to die?
Best you carefully save all those bobbed-off parts for when you change your mind and decide to put 'em back on, eh?
OTOH, the list's classifieds is a good source for parts that you may need.
 
Machine said:
Carbs, Airbox, Fuel petcocks, Speedo, etc..
Many of those items being removed from your Bobber build are still sought after by other XS members.
Keep the classifieds here in mind ?
Thanks -RT
Click to expand...
Not sure why I would get ride of my carbs but I will definitely keep that in mind.
 
fredintoon said:
don't Machine's post remind you of Vultures in the trees just waiting for your project to die?
Click to expand...


Vulture.gif
 
fredintoon said:
OTOH, the list's classifieds is a good source for parts that you may need.
Click to expand...

Chris1648 said:
Not sure why I would get ride of my carbs but I will definitely keep that in min
Click to expand...
I don't know what OTOH means ?
I do know that when I see Bobbers in local shows and such by far the majority have switched to cable pull carbs. Mikunis.
It is my belief that the 78/79 carbs are great! With the stock recipe of : Vacuum actuated petcocks, ( 78/79 BS38's have no overflow)
Stock airbox, and stock exhaust all working together.
Perhaps after the changes of exhaust, air filters, and after market petcocks, the carb tuning recipe gets too complicated?
Maybe that is why seeing cable pull carbs is common.
-R
 
Machine said:
I don't know what OTOH means ?
I do know that when I see Bobbers in local shows and such by far the majority have switched to cable pull carbs. Mikunis.
It is my belief that the 78/79 carbs are great! With the stock recipe of : Vacuum actuated petcocks, ( 78/79 BS38's have no overflow)
Stock airbox, and stock exhaust all working together.
Perhaps after the changes of exhaust, air filters, and after market petcocks, the carb tuning recipe gets too complicated?
Maybe that is why seeing cable pull carbs is common.
-R
Click to expand...
OTOH = on the other hand..
 
Chris1648 said:
Checked out your build thread. That is exactly what my motor looked like when I pulled it metal on the magnets and chain sludge and grass an inch deep. I hope I find better news inside.
Click to expand...

You know, I’m the grand scheme of things, it wasn’t that big of a deal to clean. At first I was petty overwhelmed, but once you get in there, it’s just wiping and scrubbing and picking and .....
 
Machine said:
I don't know what OTOH means ?
I do know that when I see Bobbers in local shows and such by far the majority have switched to cable pull carbs. Mikunis.
It is my belief that the 78/79 carbs are great! With the stock recipe of : Vacuum actuated petcocks, ( 78/79 BS38's have no overflow)
Stock airbox, and stock exhaust all working together.
Perhaps after the changes of exhaust, air filters, and after market petcocks, the carb tuning recipe gets too complicated?
Maybe that is why seeing cable pull carbs is common.
-R
Click to expand...

Hi Machine,
I'm mostly with your belief
OTOH I had to use the manual petcocks on the Standard tank I swapped onto my XS650 Heritage Special
and if you'd ever seen the 13 hose set-up on an XS11Special's "octopus" vacuum petcock system you'd have manualized it too.
What I reckon is what those show Bobber builders are mostly doing is "Putting on airs to be interesting"
 
Welcome to the group! Another Seattle XS is great to see. Looking forward to the build...or rebuild...or whatever it turns into. :)
 
Chris1648 said:
Question.. how hard is it to find a valve cover?
Click to expand...
The rocker box and head were line bored at the factory as an assembly. Can't change just one, you have to replace both. What's wrong with the one you have?
 
the 650 motors were assembled before the tappet,cam,crank bearing or any holes were bored in it. the cases and head/rocker are a matched pair with stamped no's on them............

mismatched no's on these parts will cause oil leaks...................mismatched parts........misaligned
newsle6.jpg mismatched_head_1.jpg mismatched_head_3.jpg mismatched_head_2.jpg
 
I'm looking at the image in #32. What is broken that you need a different valve cover. I say different because you won't find one new. Anyway... The head and cover are machined together and need to stay together. The covers wont fit or they will leak like a sieve. Unmatched sets rarely work.
 
I tried a screw extractor but it was in there to good. Next thought was to drill it out and re tap it. That might still be a solution l.
 
Chris1648 said:
I tried a screw extractor but it was in there to good. Next thought was to drill it out and re tap it. That might still be a solution l.
Click to expand...
Hi Chris,
drilling the stub out and using a Helicoil (or other) thread salvage insert will work.
Or try a thread root diameter left-handed drill bit.
Hopefully the backwards-turning bit will bite into the busted fastener and screw it out.
 
fredintoon said:
Hi Chris,
drilling the stub out and using a Helicoil (or other) thread salvage insert will work.
Or try a thread root diameter left-handed drill bit.
Hopefully the backwards-turning bit will bite into the busted fastener and screw it out.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I will look into those. My heart stopped for a second when that screw snapped.
 

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