Large Spine Frame XS650 / Egli / Rau / Cafe Racer

When you get that thing to run as good as it looks you'll have one sweet ride.
 
Just Gorgeous rehar.
You might want to talk to Mule eng. about carb settings, if you haven't already. Most of there 650s are 750s.
 
Absolutely. I'll second that bad girl!
 
Tach works now! Final schematic, yellow wire to the green wire.
Schematic FINAL 040219a.jpg
Gotta get the carb rebuild kit. Lots of fuel yet out the overflow.
1 more mile on the odometer. Got it up 5th gear!
 
Has anyone DIY their own exhaust spring - anti-rattle / vibration rubber?
BGM0901-Exhaust-spring-ANTI-RATTLE-stainless-steel-55mm-2.jpg
Can't find an appropriate tube.
Need about a .41" ID and High temp. Maybe 450F° or higher...

Would heat shrink work?

Any suggestions?
 
Viton (FKM) can go up to 240°C depending on the grade used.
Silicone is also an option, it can be good up to 250-300°C, but it doesn't like engine oil.
 
Now at 29 miles on the clock.
Targeting 200 miles (min) engine break-in before full throttle / carb tuning.
Ordered an ebay carb rebuild kit. Waste of money. In the end, the spring was very heavy and pushed the float bowls down so low that it just wouldn't function as designed.
IMG_1089.JPG
That should be pretty much vertical when in spec...

Cleaned it all up and put all the orignal parts back together - and the fuel over flow stopped. However, about 2 weeks later and maybe 10 miles... It did overflow today. Hmmm...

And there is a small oil leak. Maybe from the starter plate?
Oil Leak IMG_1099.JPG


3,000 RPMs everything starts to buzz pretty good.
Pipe rattle, Springs are somewhat sorted. Low priority: might need a little bit more work, sealing and extra springs....

Headlight will also begin to rotate at 3,000rpm. Made a new bracket on the bottom to stop rotation.
IMG_1193 Bracketa.JPG IMG_1193 Bracketb.jpg

Speedometer rattled significantly.
This was purchased from Cognito Moto. Nice piece. Made by Speedhut.
The front bezel screws on/off. Here are the major pieces.
IMG_1167 Speedo a.jpg

This is NOT a water tight piece.
IMG_1168 Speedo Edges.JPG IMG_1169 speedo backside.JPG IMG_1170 not waterproof.JPG

For vibration, I've added silicone in the red locations below.
IMG_1167 Speedo b with Silicone.jpg
Both sides of the glass lens, around the edge of the printed circuit board assembly (PWA) and in the rear housing, where the PWA makes contact.
Re-assembled while still "wet", messy job. Eventually got it all cleaned and back together.
It did not rattle during my test drive today. Neither did the head light move.

However, a headbolt came loose!
#10, in this photo (from XS650.com). An M8.
CylinderHeadTorque.jpg
Some conflicting information for torque values.
Clymer says it should be 5.79-7.33 ft-lb
Haynes says it's an M8 and 15 - 18 ft lbs.
This is an older engine - TX650...
10 ft-lbs feels about as tight as I want to go...

Thoughts?

And some pics from today.
IMG_1180.JPG IMG_1181.JPG IMG_1182.JPG
IMG_1184.JPG IMG_1187.JPG IMG_1195 tank new cap n grips.JPG
 
Up to 85 miles now. Changed out the sprocket to a 33 tooth (down from 35) (520 chain). Running a 17tooth up front. It's an improvement. If anyone uses an 2007 R6 wheel for their XS650, Sprocket Specialties mentioned, this was the limit of manufacturability for the R6 Hub (they cannot go smaller).

Now: 60MPH = 4100RPM

How does that compare with the general population?

18 tooth front would help. I have a 3/4" offset 18tooth 530 that I can have turned down to 520. I was going to use the 18 530 set up back in the beginning, but it was so close to the clutch push rod. With my longer swingarm, slightly looser chain, idler arm, etc... It's a bit scary to consider using...
 
In stock form, 17/34 sprockets, 4.00-18 rear tire, the XS650 gets pretty close to 15mph per 1,000 rpms, about 4,000rpms @ 60mph.

An 18T front sprocket runs fine on hardtails, if chain slack is kept to about 1/2". With the varying slack from a swingarm, and the propensity of the chain to want to "fling off" the front sprocket at its bottom exit, the shiftshaft is usually the first victim. Takes a lot more slack to threaten the clutch pushrod. A spring-loaded roller tensioner at the bottom, pressing upward, *could* keep the varying slack at bay, away from the shiftshaft. Otherwise, a seriously stout slipper atop the shiftshaft may be needed. Also, avoid the wider sideplate chains...
 
Forks are off the at the shop for new seals.
Also found a lead for the sprocket mods at a local machine shop.
Forks will keep me down for about a week at least. Yamaha R6 fork seals apparently are made by Yamaha, not KYB or Showa...
 
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