Jim's 1980 SG Miss September

My machine shop teacher - Mr. Jack Chapproniere (to us he was always Pappy Chappy - but not to his face of course) would be pleased...

He would likely look over his glasses at you and say something like, "Well, Mr. Dent - isn't that clever."
 
You can usually squeeze a 120 on the rear but that's not right. It's fatter than what came on them. It slows down the steering and handling. The bike doesn't want to flick into turns as readily. Basically, it kinda has the same effect that the fat 130 16" Special rear has. Not that that's a bad thing. I'm "living" with the 16" rear on my "new-to-me" Special, at least until I wear it out, and I'm finding it not too bad. The bike rides pretty nice.
 
Check original specs and you'll see a 4.00 was stock. If you go to a 110 when the 120 wears out, you'll easily notice the difference.
I rode it with a 4.00 on it. I remember what it felt like. Since I have the frame fixed it feels wonderful. I let a buddy of mine ride it the other day and he complimented it on how light the handling felt. He rode a Special years ago.
 
I've just ordered a Michelin Pilot Activ 120/90-18 for Lucille on Mailman's recommendation and I think it'll be fine for me (as one of the more generously upholstered men in the crowd).

It may affect the flickability a bit, but I'll take that for the reduced load on the larger tread area.

Pete
 
Im being cautious about tire size selection again always remembering how I killed my Seca 650's cornering performance once years ago by putting on "one size up" Continental Blitzes. Those ran large anyway.
I replaced those with stock size Dunlops soon after and got my Sweet Seca back .
 
Centerstand Mod.
Temporarily installed the centerstand and shimmed up the front tire 'till front and rear were at equal height. Came out to right at 1-1/4" front and rear. So I figured I'd take 3/4" out of the stand. That'll give a half inch on both....

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The tubing is oval shaped. I can't for the life of me figure out why Yamaha went with oval tubing... but it is what it is. Found some .065" wall 4130 in my scrap bin that squeezed down just right in the press. Drilled some rosett holes in both sides of the oval tube, beveled the ends and pressed it all together....

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Filled in the rosett's and went around the vee joint...

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Cleaned it all up and now one side's 3/4" shorter.... and my feet called it a day. :(
I'll cut the other side tomorrow and add a brace to the tang... put it back on and see where we're at.

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Busy on other stuff today. Finally got some work done. Other stand leg shortened. Stuck it in for a test.... If I were to do it again, I'd prolly take a full inch out. As it sits right now, there's about 3/4" under the rear tire on the stand... but it is noticeably easier now.

 
I'm definitely doing this mod. About blow a nut every time I try to get my 81 on the center stand. Hey Jim, did the emblems not meet stage 4 OCD requirements? Just cut more vinyl if you need another set. No cost.
 
Yeah.. this mod definitely made it easier. Like I said... prolly an inch would be best. Haven't done the emblems yet. I'll let you know if I screw up and need more.;)
 
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Really, you only need to do this stand shortening on a Special. When Yamaha made the Special model with the 16" rear wheel and more angled rear shocks, they didn't change the centerstand. It's the same stand used on the previous Standard models. The 18" rear wheel on the Standard already sits about 3/4" lower, and the more upright mounted rear shocks move it even closer to the ground on top of that. But, you do want to add the grease fittings to the pivots and brace the tang. I can't stress enough the importance of keeping the pivots greased. It literally makes an amazing difference in how easily the stand operates. I think the braced tang improves the stand's operation as well. When you step on the braced tang to deploy the stand, it doesn't flex as much. More of your downward stepping force is transmitted into the stand and not lost to flex.
 
You know it’s funny just how different these center stands can feel. At first I couldn’t figure out why you were shortening that stand, then the light bulb went on!
My 77D is so easy to pop up on the stand, but my XS2 is almost painful. It feels like I’m deadlifting the bike. There are many differences between the two, but one of the biggies is the distance between the center stand bolt and the rear axle. Way different between the two.
I usually run the rear wheel on my XS2 up on to a 2x4 to make it easier to get on the stand.
I can do it without, but it’s a nut buster!
I like your mod Jim! :thumbsup:
 
Your XS2 stand is also different than the '77 stand. The '77 stand is wider, not sure about a height difference. Easy enough for you to check though. Compare the space under the rear wheel with both bikes on the stands.
 
I'm definitely doing this mod. About blow a nut every time I try to get my 81 on the center stand. Hey Jim, did the emblems not meet stage 4 OCD requirements? Just cut more vinyl if you need another set. No cost.

Hey 2XSive - any thoughts on the silver version of those logos?
 
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