Troubleshooting Reliability of Kickstart

OK you haven't left yet!
That's a good thing!
Let's ignore timing for a bit. If it doesn't stop the starter motor dead it's probably close enough to get you kick starting it. So our original guess is the clutch is adjusted just a little tight.
This adjustment is done at the small chrome cover on the LH engine side cover.
First loosen the cable adjuster up at the clutch lever.
Remove the chrome cover there's a slot at the bottom, the cover just pops off with a screwdriver.
Inside the cover you will see a screw held snug by a 12mm nut, Insert a phillips screwdriver to hold the screw from turning. Slightly back off the nut, an offset box end wrench works well here. Back off the screw, no more than 1/8 turn, retighten nut, again keep screw from turning with your phillips screwdriver. Tighten cable adjuster at the handle 'til there is about 1/2" of lever travel at the tip before you feel the cable tighten when squeezing the lever, ride and see how it works when warm. Report please.
 
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lube the cable, check cable routing, smooth easy bend NO sharp curves, Action should be smooth and no grating feel. Lube the lever pivot also. While you have the inspection cover open check that the worm is clean and well greased.
 
To lube the cable you really need to at least unhook it at both ends.
Off the bike works better.
Use house hold kitchen foil. Use enough to form a funnel around the upper end. Pour in a bit of motor oil in funnel. Let it drain down through the cable till it comes out the lower end. It may take awhile. Sliding the inner core up and down will help speed things up.
I keep a spare cable on hand so I have a nicely lubed cable. When the one on the bike needs lube I just sap the lubed cable for the unlubed cable. That way I can still ride the bike. I then hang the cable up, attach funnel and oil. Then It's ready for the next time around.
Leo
 
To lube the cable you really need to at least unhook it at both ends.
Off the bike works better.
Use house hold kitchen foil. Use enough to form a funnel around the upper end. Pour in a bit of motor oil in funnel. Let it drain down through the cable till it comes out the lower end. It may take awhile. Sliding the inner core up and down will help speed things up.
I keep a spare cable on hand so I have a nicely lubed cable. When the one on the bike needs lube I just sap the lubed cable for the unlubed cable. That way I can still ride the bike. I then hang the cable up, attach funnel and oil. Then It's ready for the next time around.
Leo

Hi Leo,
or you can cheat.
There's a little gadget that seals onto the cable and accepts a lube spray-can's stinger.
See the photo in MikesXS/tools/#35-0108 and buy one locally.
Still gotta remove the cable though.
 
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OK you haven't left yet!
That's a good thing!
Let's ignore timing for a bit. If it doesn't stop the starter motor dead it's probably close enough to get you kick starting it. So our original guess is the clutch is adjusted just a little tight.
This adjustment is done at the small chrome cover on the LH engine side cover.
First loosen the cable adjuster up at the clutch lever.
Remove the chrome cover there's a slot at the bottom, the cover just pops off with a screwdriver.
Inside the cover you will see a screw held snug by a 12mm nut, Insert a phillips screwdriver to hold the screw from turning. Slightly back off the nut, an offset box end wrench works well here. Back off the screw, no more than 1/8 turn, retighten nut, again keep screw from turning with your phillips screwdriver. Tighten cable adjuster at the handle 'til there is about 1/2" of lever travel at the tip before you feel the cable tighten when squeezing the lever, ride and see how it works when warm. Report please.
Yeah...my nut is now stripped....tried to loosen it counter clock wise....but its on there tight...sprayed some compressed air/lubricant...can the lock nut be replaced?
 
I have one of those spray can adapters. The spray cable lubes are pretty much crap. They don't last and they don't lube well.
I use mine to flush the cables with a spray cleaner, carb, brake, whatever is handy. They work good for that. I then do the funnel, motor oil lube. It take a bit of time. lubes very well and lasts.
Leo
 
On the nut. Use a 6 point deep well socket. A 6 point won't slip as bad as a 12 point.
Yes. they can be replaced. You just have to get the old one off first.
Something I've done to get stubborn nuts off is to take a drill and start with a very small bit. Drill a hole on opposite sides of the nut. Get it half between the threads of the bolt and the outside of nut. Keep drilling the next size bigger hole till the hole doesn't quite touch the threads and it can touch the edge of the nut. Once you get these two holes drilled use a small cold chisel, a 1/4 wide one will be just about right. Drive the cutting edge into the hole you drilled, Watch you don't bang the threads on the bolt. If you do they aren't hard the fix. This should pop the nut right off. Once the nut is off you can take that bolt to the hardware store and find a nut to fit.
When you get it all back together don't tighten that nut too tight, Just snug is enough.
Leo
 
Yeah...my nut is now stripped....tried to loosen it counter clock wise....but its on there tight...sprayed some compressed air/lubricant...can the lock nut be replaced?
Yes it's normal thread.
A 12mm 6 point socket on an air wrench is a good way loosen that nut. if it's stripped too much for that, a 7/16" 6 point might be tapped on then the air wrench.
 
Well....got the rounded nut off....does the nut have to be a special material.....I can deduce that brass would be too soft....I wonder zinc or stainless steel?....anyway I'm just going look thru my "fish bowl" of nuts and find something that works...and then ride my bike to determine weather or not I need to replace clutch cable or plates?
 
Nut and bolt are "high grade" hardened. Just by look and feel but I'm near certain on this. A standard metric nut would work "fine" til a replacement arrived.
 
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