engine case cleanup

I use anti seize on any bolt that goes into aluminum, every time. Save your cases.
Ditto. :thumbsup:
Keep in mind that anti-seize makes it much easier to overtorque a fastener. Definitely use a torque wrench and stay on the low side of the torque values.
 
6mm bolts; First always clean at least a spritz of carb cleaner in the bolt holes in the crankcase to flush out detritus, follow with some compressed air. If a bolt doesn't run in freely you might want to consider running a tap in and out, a bottoming tap is perfect for this but you can grind a regular tap's end to create a bottoming tap. (taps; a couple bux at the auto store.) Flush with carb cleaner, compressed air. Now lightly lube and install the bolts.
Pete may disagree but for me any 6mm going into aluminum gets hand tightened with careful attention paid to the FEEL as the cover tightens up. the screw should stop turning freely relatively quickly as the slack is removed. Any screw that seems to want to keep " turning but not tightening" is your sign to STOP and consider whether to let that sleeping dog lie. Or gird your loins for a full helicoil moment. Been on motorcycle forums a while and have lost count of how many guys have stripped these small screws "but the torque wrench said it wasn't tight yet".
I'm a fan of Hylomar for these type gaskets and sealing.
 
Been on motorcycle forums a while and have lost count of how many guys have stripped these small screws "but the torque wrench said it wasn't tight yet".

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Hi, I’m a little late to this discussion, but I have done it both ways. On and off. If your cover does not have a lot of corrosion that needs to be removed, you could get by with just paint stripper then ( my personal fave ) Blue Magic metal polish , available at your nearest Walmart.

That was what I did on this cover here.

View attachment 141254
View attachment 141253

My other 650 had some significant corrosion on the bottom half of the cover that needed to be sanded off first, which was easier with the cover off.

Having said all that. Polishing is FUN! If you want to pull your cover and really work it, then have a ball and good luck!
Bob
Your case does look good. Did you remove the black paint on the "YAMAHA" emblem?
 
Your case does look good. Did you remove the black paint on the "YAMAHA" emblem?

Haha! Not intentionally, paint stripper crept into the lettering and lifted the black paint. It’s easy to re do. Get some small art brushes, cheap, at Walmart. And buy a small can of black enamel and just brush it in.
 
Nope not YOU, never happened on THIS forum!
Haha! Not intentionally, paint stripper crept into the lettering and lifted the black paint. It’s easy to re do. Get some small art brushes, cheap, at Walmart. And buy a small can of black enamel and just brush it in.
easiest if the cover is laying flat on the bench!
Don't forget copper washers on all the lower bolts and in spite of 5twins admonitions, copper on the two that hold the filter cover on also.
long as you have the cover off might as well pull the oil pump and have a look see. The pump gives kind of a cliffs notes version of your engine's history and care.
 
Yup, I agree with all of the above on anti-seize on all bolts going into aluminium.

I do differ with Gary about torque. Frankly, if I’ve got a bad hole :)yikes:), I would helicoil it so that I could torque it reliably. Now, if I was on a trip, yeah, I’d take it easy on the torque to get home, but fixing things properly is always a good policy IMO.

The key thing is that the engineers who design things calculate EVERYTHING and if they wanted 5-7 ft-lbs of torque on those fasteners, then I do too. USE A TORQUE WRENCH.

...and Mailman is quite right about polishing, and man, does that guy know polishing!

Pete
 
Pete you need to do a finite element analysis on the both the lefty and righty side covers so I can put my engines back together!

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There is NO bolt tightening sequence available, I already destroyed one cover just guessing the sequence, I'm FLUMMOXED!

im-just-pulling-your-chain.jpg
 
Pete may disagree but for me any 6mm going into aluminum gets hand tightened with careful attention paid to the FEEL as the cover tightens up. the screw should stop turning freely relatively quickly as the slack is removed. Any screw that seems to want to keep " turning but not tightening" is your sign to STOP and consider whether to let that sleeping dog lie.
Oh crap here I go again telling the internet world about how I rarely ever use a torque wrench .
:shootme:
Do you guys use a torque wrench on spark plugs too ? Axles ?
I have to admit that my only torque wrench is ft/lbs reading and it sucks in the low settings. If I were rebuilding my engine I'd be buying one immediately but common maintenence is all I do.
Haven't stripped a 6mm or pretty much anything since I was a...
young guy.
-RT just shoot me
 
I don't torque everything but some things I do. I don't torque the two items you mentioned, spark plugs and axles, but I do torque all those side cover screws. You need a small inch/pound torque wrench for this. I find I use that one more than all my larger ones combined. If you want to get a good one, search eBay for Utica torque wrenches. These are $200+ tools but you can often score one for $20 to $30. They make all kinds. Some aren't adjustable (pre-set) and some don't have a ratcheting head. You don't want one of those. This is what you want .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UTICA-...:F9YAAOSwJnxcucl8:sc:USPSPriority!14075!US!-1
 
If you want to get a good one, search eBay for Utica torque wrenches.
thats a very good torque wrench. I actually did own a Utica in/lb er years ago.
Im never intending to discredit proper tool use and for their design.
Some folks such as myself do actually just use their hands and acquired skills daily.
An amazing example is even at this moment there is not a torque wrench in this Swiss Screw machine dept.
We set tools and holders and such everyday and these machines hold .0001's 20190522_071731.jpg 20190522_072552.jpgand im measuring force of a .1965 pin in ft/lbs to 4-9lbs. By machine but I can "feel" it.20190522_074343.jpg 20190522_073951.jpg
And I have a .0035 feeler gauge for intake valve setting, but I dont torque the lock nut, I "snug" it.
A guy can set his 350 chev points with a matchbook & screwdriver.
& a pianist uses unmeasured touch.
- RT gotta go work lol
 
Oh crap here I go again telling the internet world about how I rarely ever use a torque wrench .

After my oil pump fiasco, I’ve limited my torque wrench usage to critical areas. I’ve learned to adapt my sensei master Randy’s approach “ Feel the bolt, be one with the threads”
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Thanks everyone for your input on case removal and installation. It came off yesterday with out a hitch. The polishing is going well.
My next project on this bike is powder coating the speedo and tach cases. Is it a big deal to get the cases off of an 1981 model?
 
My next project on this bike is powder coating the speedo and tach cases. Is it a big deal to get the cases off of an 1981 model?
Speedo and Tach buckets ? While you have the gauges out and all the wires are unplugged in the head light bucket for removal. It may be worth considering a Speedo from a 78/79 Special which reads up to 120 mph instead of that 80's era 85 mph red line one?
Just an idea. Those speedos can be found for cheap. Usually locally even.
 
Speedo and Tach buckets ? While you have the gauges out and all the wires are unplugged in the head light bucket for removal. It may be worth considering a Speedo from a 78/79 Special which reads up to 120 mph instead of that 80's era 85 mph red line one?
Just an idea. Those speedos can be found for cheap. Usually locally even.
*80 mph is more that fast enough for me on this bike!
 
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