Brake m/c swap when ditching buckhorns for euros

oneup

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The m/c that comes on buckhorn bar equipped bikes is apparently designed specifically for said buckhorns. I got some euros to replace the b/h's and the m/c res is not even remotely level, it is running downhill at an extreme angle. What m/c's did any of you who tossed the buckhorns swap to to get your res close to level?
 
Swapped the MC for a smaller size. 11mm vs. 14mm. Lots of threads on this forum as the to advantages of the smaller MC for single disc brakes.
Go to a single stainless steel brake line while you are at it.
 
I have to have something that is shorter than 5" from the head of the banjo bolt to the right side of mc that buts against the on/off switch control. Banjo crashes against tach shell and that is with bars off center.
 
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I have to have something that is shorter than 5" from the head of the banjo bolt to the right side of mc that buts against the on/off switch control. Banjo crashes against tach shell and that is with bars off center.
Those bars must be super short. I'm running superbike bars. Mine was a Special that had the buckhorn bars. The MC is from HHB
 
Yamaha P/N 5RS-25870-02-00 master cylinder as used from early 2000's up on Yamaha TW200, TT-R250 and XT225 models is a plug-and-play swap that IIRC has 11mm bore, which is a good size for XS650 with stock single caliper front end. By all means, search for m/c swap threads - there's a lot of info, many choices.
 

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You seem to be set on replacing the weird angled stock buckhorn M/C, which is cool, but it really isn't necessary. If you keep the reservoir at least half full it will work just fine on euro bars.
 
It wont work on these bars. The brake line is smashed against the tach housing and that is with the bars not even centered in their mounts. It has to go.
 
Heads up; with bars that short clutch cable HAS to route over to RH side of frame to avoid too tight bends. If you and your back are no longer "youthful" you'll find those bars angle your torso a bit far forward for long ride comfort. (sez the old guy)
 
Yeah, that MC has to go. The smaller diameter MCs work better anyway. Pull the trigger...
 
You have the bars mounted incorrectly, rolled forward too much. For best fork action, the rise of the bars should be in line with the angle of the fork tubes. That way, any downward force you impart into the bars pushes directly down into the forks. An imaginary line drawn up through the fork tubes should run parallel to the rise of your bars. I was wondering why you were having this issue as I've mounted the Euro bars on many of these and never had any problems like yours. Now I see why.

The last couple sets of Euro bars I mounted went on Special models with the angled MC. With the bars mounted correctly, the ends droop down slightly, and the angled MC mounts up quite nicely, almost level .....

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There was also never any clearance issue between the tach and banjo bolt.
 
The m/c that comes on buckhorn bar equipped bikes is apparently designed specifically for said buckhorns. I got some euros to replace the b/h's and the m/c res is not even remotely level, it is running downhill at an extreme angle. What m/c's did any of you who tossed the buckhorns swap to to get your res close to level?

Hi oneup,
the buckhorn slant M/C works OK on differently angled bars, just gotta swivel the bars and rotate the M/C to level the reservoir for top-up, is all.
Problem with Mr. Slanty ain't it's angle, it's that it's piston area is sized to operate two brake calipers and North American XS650s only have one.
Two ways to go, here.
What I did was to install the leftside front caliper from an XS750/850/1100 Standard.
The other option is to swap Mr. Slanty for an M/C with a smaller area piston.
 
Two ways to go, here.
What I did was to install the leftside front caliper from an XS750/850/1100 Standard.
Been waiting for somebody other than myself to encourage the left side disc add on. It’s all bolt on if you can find the parts.
Double disc bike pics about always get a “like” on here. Just don’t hear too much and that has been puzzling
:umm:
 
Just don’t hear too much and that has been puzzling
:umm:
If twin calipers suits you, that's fine, but there is a reason you don't hear them advocated for very much on this forum.
A rotor weighs 6.5 pounds. A caliper weighs 3 pounds. That doesn't include the mounting hardware for either, so by the time they are on your bike you have just added 10 pounds of unsprung weight. Maybe the heavier 750, 850 and 1100 need the extra stopping power, but an XS650 only needs one caliper on the front to stop.
 
Stock XS650 front brakes were a weak set up from the start. But adding the left side brake components sure do work well with a stock master cylinder.
Lighter 5mm rotors are also an option.
Single piston calipers are light, spoke wheels are light too. I’m going for it .
 

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