Getting bad exhaust studs out?

Those tapered, LH thread "easy-outs" are not very good
imho. I have better experience with Ridgid/Ridge Tools screw extractor kits. Drill through the bolt, using the drill guide if possible, hammer the extractor pin in, slide on the drive nut, and use a ring wrench on it.View attachment 142950
found this on eBay... quality unknown.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25Pc-Screw...175708?hash=item5d65efd7dc:g:DhsAAMXQfFJRPBe1
Odd they don't put LH drill bits in these kits.
 
I wasn't criticizing your efforts G :) i'm the first to resort to mechanical bodgery if I think i can get away with it


Easy-outs are a major bugbear of mine :mad:
But it's true, thought it would be an easy weld nut and remove, didn't turn out that way. Welded three different nuts on that stud,was on them with a long half inch breaker bar AFTER oxy acetyl heating the stud. (several times) BEFORE I resorted to drilling easyouts, I even heated the inside of the stud after I had it drilled, That bugger was really in there.
 
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Those tapered, LH thread "easy-outs" are not very good
imho. I have better experience with Ridgid/Ridge Tools screw extractor kits. Drill through the bolt, using the drill guide if possible, hammer the extractor pin in, slide on the drive nut, and use a ring wrench on it.View attachment 142950
Good call! found a used genuine Ridgid set on fleabay cheap. This is a VERY well designed system! Working on the farm-all I got a chance to try it. This bolt was really rust welded in place. I had snapped it off trying to "snug it up" a month ago getting ready for next pasture mowing.
You can see the extractor installed on the broken bolt with a wrench on the hex collar in the first pic. a 3/8 bolt, I was on that 1/2" wrench SERIOUS both directions before it turned out. Since the extractor is the same diameter it's whole length it doesn't enlarge the bolt like the tapered easy outs do. My only beef is that the drill bits SHOULD be LH not RH spiral.
20190710_113459.jpg

View attachment 145040
The removed bolt stub with the extractor still in it and the hex collar on the extractor pin. You can see how this sliding system lets you get your torque right down at the bolt, not out an inch or two away. Took just a quick tap with a punch to pop the extractor back out.
20190710_113535.jpg
 
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The whole premise is wrong . Screwing in an easy-out until it bites and then turning it ....just increases the pressure between the broken stud or bolt and the aluminium
...........the harder you turn the easy out the greater the expansion of the easy out taper in the broken stud or bolt ,
Its analogous to trying to remove a stud from the jaws of a vice .......which squeezes harder on the stud ...the more you pull on the stud..
The part that strikes me is it's stuck enough to have broken off something bigger and more rugged than the easy-out already. This kind of thing is the daily bread and butter of machine shops, sustained by people who have learned not to try this at home :)
 
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