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Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration
- Thread starter Mailman
- Start date
I closed my eyes lol
For castle nuts like this you're supposed to set the torque wrench at the low value (72 ft-lbs). Tighten 'till it clicks, then set it to the high value (87). Continue to tighten until you can drop the cotter pin before it clicks on the max value.
Like most here however, I just tighten the sh*t out of it and call it good.
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For castle nuts like this you're supposed to set the torque wrench at the low value (72 in-lbs). Tighten 'till it clicks, then set it to the high value (87). Continue to tighten until you can drop the cotter pin before it clicks on the max value.
Like most here however, I just tighten the sh*t out of it and call it good.
....errrrrrr Jim - I think you mean ft-lbs....
As I have pointed out before <WARNING: engineering lecture coming here> the folks who design these things calculate everything and that includes fastener torque values. If you do not observe the proper torque values, don't be too surprised if something either leaks (not tight enough) or breaks (too tight)......and then leaks.
Today, John (new member) and I picked up Robin's bikes in London and there was a fair bit of arcane paperwork. Watching Lakeview work his way through all of it (including using his Notary Public embossing seal) was a lesson in how a pro does legal stuff.
Sorry - but that's how it is.
Pete
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Normally the torque speck is based on the composition of the bolt or stud. It's supposed to allow for a bit of expansion or contraction and still hold. Torque to yield is a bit of a different story. In this case I can't imagine how much you would have tighten the counter shaft nut to actually stretch the shaft. I think it would be very hard to over tighten it and cause damage, other than when you wanted to take it back off.
Pete go through the the shop manuals through the years Several torque specs went up and down a couple times. Look at how much valve lash changed. IMHO the last one was a fight between marketing and engineering. Engineering wanted them wide for best life and power, marketing said we can't sell bikes that sound like rocks in a dryer.........
Engineers are always right and can prove it, til they aren't.
Engineers are always right and can prove it, til they aren't.
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ERTW Gary - ERTW. 
Or... as we used to say in the Air Force... just run it down 'till it strips, then back it off a half a turn.
KaBoom ! Right there. Now that’s what I wanna hear about
Cuz, you all know how I can perfectly torque any bolt eyes closed without a torque wrench anyway lol
Or... as we used to say in the Air Force... just run it down 'till it strips, then back it off a half a turn.
Yup Back at you Jim,
Said similar to an apprentice once when he asked me about the sight glass on a B206 rotor head, and me being a smart arse said "just tighten it up until the sight glass cracks", and he did.
Ooops none left in the system for 14 days, my arse was grass.
ERTW Gary - ERTW.
Zackley!
Thanks Gator,
Your bike is looking really nice. It really is deserving of its own build thread, I think it’s going to be a beauty!
Don’t forget the guys love photos!
It looks great No rubber boots on the front fork seals?
Someday I got to get the ambition to take a bike apart and do a restoration like you have !!!
Keep us posted !!
Never bored on here just amazed on all the info!Well thanks Mike, I hope you get something useful out of it. It’s the War and Peace of motorcycle restoration. Haha!
If you get bored with that one, here’s another!
http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/
Good luck with your restoration!
Bob
Chasing an oil leak.....Round 2
So you know I’ve got this oil leak coming from my drive shaft / sprocket. It’s really a pain, even a little 30 minute jaunt means coming back home and wiping oil off of my frame and rear wheel, under the motor, center stand, etc.
So the last time I tried to fix it I applied Yamabond on the back of the sprocket, where it comes into contact with the spacer.
Yeah....that didn’t work. It’s still sling oil everywhere. So today I pulled everything apart again to try a different approach.
( Side Bar: I’ve always heard the guys that have been around a while saying, “ We used to make gaskets out of a cereal box.” So I tried it , I tore my gasket the last time I was in here, so here is my cereal box gasket. Now I can be an old timer and say, “ You kids today have it easy! In my day we made gaskets out of a cereal box! )
I can see that the outside of the sprocket looks pretty clean, but oil is drooling out of the other side.
So when I pulled the sprocket off, the spacer slid right off with it. Still well sealed all around from the Yamabond.
I could see how oil had been migrating through the inside of that spacer and traveling the length of the splines.
So I cleaned everything up, including the edge of the inner race inside the case, then I applied a thin layer of Hylomar on the edge of that spacer where it presses up against the inner race inside the case.
I set it outside to let the solvents dry out of it. I wanted it to be more of a gasket, then I slid the spacer and gear back on the shaft, put some more Hylomar on the lock washer, where it presses against the gear and a small amount around where the nut tightens against the lock washer. Overkill? Maybe, but I can still get everything back apart when the time comes.
So the arrows indicate where either Yamabond or Hylomar have been applied.
I’ll report back after the next time I go for a ride. ( which might be a while, we are heading back up to 110 degrees.)
One other comment, I had considered other options. Cra-Z1 had suggested an o ring between the spacer and inner race, this idea has real merit and mechanically it would be the simplest thing to handle.
2M had suggested filling the splines with grease as a way of blocking oil migration. Also a good idea that is simplicity itself.
In the end, I would have had to locate a suitable o ring, or if I tried the grease, I wasn’t sure what kind of grease to use. I know I have greased other things before in these motors and the grease I used didn’t blend in with the oil and it wound up clumping on my oil filter screen.
I had Hylomar and Yamabond on hand, so that’s the direction I went.
Wish me luck! I’d like to be through with this leak.
Later,
Bob
So you know I’ve got this oil leak coming from my drive shaft / sprocket. It’s really a pain, even a little 30 minute jaunt means coming back home and wiping oil off of my frame and rear wheel, under the motor, center stand, etc.
So the last time I tried to fix it I applied Yamabond on the back of the sprocket, where it comes into contact with the spacer.
Yeah....that didn’t work. It’s still sling oil everywhere. So today I pulled everything apart again to try a different approach.
( Side Bar: I’ve always heard the guys that have been around a while saying, “ We used to make gaskets out of a cereal box.” So I tried it , I tore my gasket the last time I was in here, so here is my cereal box gasket. Now I can be an old timer and say, “ You kids today have it easy! In my day we made gaskets out of a cereal box! )
I can see that the outside of the sprocket looks pretty clean, but oil is drooling out of the other side.
So when I pulled the sprocket off, the spacer slid right off with it. Still well sealed all around from the Yamabond.
I could see how oil had been migrating through the inside of that spacer and traveling the length of the splines.
So I cleaned everything up, including the edge of the inner race inside the case, then I applied a thin layer of Hylomar on the edge of that spacer where it presses up against the inner race inside the case.
I set it outside to let the solvents dry out of it. I wanted it to be more of a gasket, then I slid the spacer and gear back on the shaft, put some more Hylomar on the lock washer, where it presses against the gear and a small amount around where the nut tightens against the lock washer. Overkill? Maybe, but I can still get everything back apart when the time comes.
So the arrows indicate where either Yamabond or Hylomar have been applied.
I’ll report back after the next time I go for a ride. ( which might be a while, we are heading back up to 110 degrees.)
One other comment, I had considered other options. Cra-Z1 had suggested an o ring between the spacer and inner race, this idea has real merit and mechanically it would be the simplest thing to handle.
2M had suggested filling the splines with grease as a way of blocking oil migration. Also a good idea that is simplicity itself.
In the end, I would have had to locate a suitable o ring, or if I tried the grease, I wasn’t sure what kind of grease to use. I know I have greased other things before in these motors and the grease I used didn’t blend in with the oil and it wound up clumping on my oil filter screen.
I had Hylomar and Yamabond on hand, so that’s the direction I went.
Wish me luck! I’d like to be through with this leak.
Later,
Bob
I'm going to step into the "way back" machine here for a moment and refer back to your fork issues. We recently went through the forks on my buddy's '80 Special II and guess what we found? Yep, a "crunched" fork lower like yours. Even though he cleaned it up and polished it, you could still make out some "bite" marks on the lower where some idiot P.O. clamped it hard in a vice. It wouldn't slide all the way up on the tube, only about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way.
