She should of hid the van keys

So it went round the block.
It's cleaning up good
20190715_134631.jpg


The EPA plugs were out of the idle mix screw ports. Left cylinder mix screw was seated :doh:
20190715_140417.jpg


looked like they were using the throttle cable slack adjustment barrel as the idle speed setting............
The "thumb wheel" idle speed screw is buried 'tween the middle carbs. Just able to move it by tapping on it with a long screwdriver.
someone had problems with a stuck idle screw....
20190715_140529.jpg

This one was easy; loosen one set of riser bolts, straighten bars.
20190715_134556.jpg


Runs smooth all the way up. gets horsepower at about 6K, goes good to red line at 9500
Clutch slips a bit at full throttle about 7500 on up. bit of time might fix that... Or Barnett springs LOL.
My fancy "see if it runs OK before spending money clutch cable.
20190715_134549.jpg

Bet you can guess where THAT came from.
Well gotta pull the tank back off and mess with the idle screws, synch and run it again.
Suspect it might like a jet needle shim job.....
Oh chain was very loose, so was axle nut (with the cotter in place) AND the adjuster nuts.
This thing is geared pretty darned low. about 5,000 RPM at 60MPH.
 

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And tank back off, did the synch, they weren't far off...
20190715_171459.jpg

All four idle mix screws were bottomed! set them all to 2.5 turns out. Did the washer mod didn't need to pull the carbs to do this. Put on 20 miles mid range seems better after the mod poured in some Techron, rode some more. It really spins the clutch loose at about 6500-7000 RPM. After a few miles the idle climbed to about 2200 RPM, reset to about 1200 now. Can hear some valves a bit, not bad but will need to do a valve adjust. It is geared low not much out there for non stock sprockets the rear 45 would be nice down to a 42. Chain is o-ring but it looked pretty dry, rusty. used grease and chain lube on it but it was loose again after 20 miles. Bought some DID #50 but will open cover and see what the front sprocket looks like before I decide to install it. Riding position isn''t so bad, not that different than riding a stock 650 special.
was pretty clean not rusty!
20190715_175649.jpg


Who knows what this means?
20190715_162907.jpg

Pulled about 20 or 30 pieces like that out of crannies and crevices.
 
OK tally so far
Bike with title $300
trip; $50 of gas in the van
battery and some oil $45
chain and techron $45
used gauges headlight $40

still to go;
filter at NAPA $7 ordered
front tire $47
Clutch cable $38 ordered 7-16
Shift lever rubber $5 ish ordered 7-16
clutch springs $15
front pads $11 ordered 7-16
ss brake lines $20
title tax license $120
probably 20-25 hours in so far
 
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Mailman said:
I am waiting with baited breath to hear how your , no removal carburetor cleaning , works out for you. I’ve gotta believe it’s a lot of work to remove a linked set of four carbies..........
Click to expand...
I keep looking at that blued pipe and thinking "I wonder if there's a plugged pilot jet in that carb."
Mid range is fine and seems smooth enough but the reviews "when this bike was new" mention how the motor, carbs cams were calibrated for more mid than high RPM performance.
 
The chain loosening up after lubing and a 20 mile ride seems normal to me. The lube is penetrating and you're working the "kinks" out. My '83 had what appeared to be an almost new o-ring chain on it but it was covered with surface rust. I spent a couple hours wire wheeling it clean then greased it with moly grease. Seems good now. I found a brand name on it and looked it up. It's near a $100 chain so I wanted to try and save it.
 
Yes, that should work well. One tooth on our 650s is a pretty big change because of the 2 to 1 ratio between the sprocket sizes front and rear. You have about a 3 to 1 ratio so the change won't be so drastic. A larger diameter sprocket is also easier on the chain because it doesn't have to turn as tightly around it.
 
Probably a patent issue. The Japanese do not like paying patent fees to foreign companies. Still better than the damn Bosch ceramic fuses Alfa Romeo used until the mid-80s.
 

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