Those points and advance housing seals can be tricky to get sealed up. If they weren't leaking, I don't replace them. It's something you can always get at later with the motor back in the frame if need be. You will want to thoroughly clean the stub ends of the cam that the seals work upon. Buff them clean and shiny with a Scrotchbrite pad. This little tip can actually fix a slightly weeping seal.
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Miss November XS2 tribute
- Thread starter Raymond
- Start date
5twins, I usually anneal & reuse copper washers, so I didn't order any more. But when I came to re-fitting the oil feed, took a look and they were not re-usable. Possibly the originals or at least very tired. Tried rubbing the grooves out on wet&dry paper but too deep. They would have ended up like polo mints after you've sucked them for five minutes - do you have polo mints in the USA? In case you don't here's a vintage advert:
Looked up the part number and price at CMSnl - have found this a very useful site. But too expensive.
Had a look at http://www.xs650.com/threads/the-gr...ut-bolt-sizes-used-on-the-xs650-thread.51957/
This told me the sizes. Found what I need on that ebay - 2 packs, 5 of each size, less than £5 delivered. That'll do.
But what I'm worried about is, if I lob the engine back into the frame before fitting the oil feed, will I have access to fit it?
Looked up the part number and price at CMSnl - have found this a very useful site. But too expensive.
Had a look at http://www.xs650.com/threads/the-gr...ut-bolt-sizes-used-on-the-xs650-thread.51957/
This told me the sizes. Found what I need on that ebay - 2 packs, 5 of each size, less than £5 delivered. That'll do.
But what I'm worried about is, if I lob the engine back into the frame before fitting the oil feed, will I have access to fit it?
Yes, you'll have plenty of access to/for the oil tube.
Just read your new new post. Thanks for a useful tip - I'll leave the present seals and try cleaning up the cam. The new seals will go in the XS650 spares box for now.
The other tip I have found very useful fitting an oil seal over a shaft is to roll up a piece of cellophane, place through the seal, and fit over the shaft as the seal is offered up. Reduces chances of seal catching on end of shaft. Pulls out easily once seal is in place.
Keep at it Raymond - you’re nearly there!
Pete
Thank you, Pete! Need a bit of encouragement sometimes.
Another bit of encouragement:
Now that's lovely. Had opportunity to buy SR500 top yoke in very good condition, it's all there including rubber inserts and steel caps.
Sure I read somewhere, undoubtedly on XS650.com, that fitting one of these will lower the front by an inch giving the bike improved weight distribution.
I know, getting well ahead of meself . . . but you gotta have a dream.
PS correction - its was at XScafe that I saw the SR500 top yoke idea.
Another bit of encouragement:
Now that's lovely. Had opportunity to buy SR500 top yoke in very good condition, it's all there including rubber inserts and steel caps.
Sure I read somewhere, undoubtedly on XS650.com, that fitting one of these will lower the front by an inch giving the bike improved weight distribution.
I know, getting well ahead of meself . . . but you gotta have a dream.
PS correction - its was at XScafe that I saw the SR500 top yoke idea.
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Probably a waste of space or as we say this side of the pond, teaching Granny to suck eggs.
it's not cellophane, possibly polycarbonate?. Cut a piece large enough to roll up inside the seal - a little over πd ought to do it:
pass through the seal:
and place over end of camshaft to guide seal on. No free hands to take photo. Of course, I put the gasket on before the housing was fitted.
it's not cellophane, possibly polycarbonate?. Cut a piece large enough to roll up inside the seal - a little over πd ought to do it:
pass through the seal:
and place over end of camshaft to guide seal on. No free hands to take photo. Of course, I put the gasket on before the housing was fitted.
Cool idea for installing the seal - I'm gonna steal that one!
On the matter of having a dream: as many will know, I have been barking about building a cafe bike out of an '81 Special for...well...for a while. Throughout this time, work, life, health and the weddings of two of my many daughters have interfered
- but I have quietly been assembling parts and know-how and on Saturday-last, my son-in-law and I moved his 1982 Honda CX500 from the back shed onto my hoist (carburetor rebuild and assembly) and my '81 XS650SH Special to a position right behind it in the garage. It is pretty crowded in the Disaster Central Workshop right now, but.....So....I never pass up an opportunity to grab a future part - and thus, your snag of the SR500 top tree fitting was right-on (and thanks for sharing your plan)! This engine heartburn will soon pass - and then it will be on with the show!
Pete
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Painter dropped off the metal work - not ready to fit them till I get the motor back in.
I think I am going to be liking this . . .
I think I am going to be liking this . . .
Very pretty Raymond!
I’m really liking that paint scheme!
I have a set of the alloy bushings and staninless bolts that Hugh sells that’ll fit if you’re interested? I’m not going to be using them so happy to let them go for a fair price.
Thank you for the offer but what bushings and bolts is that - for the top yoke? Photo?
Meanwhile, first painted piece now attached:
Almost a pity it won't be seen in it's naked glory - about to fit rear light. And the saddle will hide at least half.
Looks better in real life, can't really see the yellow pinstripe in the photo. Just sorting some things while waiting for aid to lift the engine.
Meanwhile, first painted piece now attached:
Almost a pity it won't be seen in it's naked glory - about to fit rear light. And the saddle will hide at least half.
Looks better in real life, can't really see the yellow pinstripe in the photo. Just sorting some things while waiting for aid to lift the engine.
Love the colors!
If you try that SR500 top tree you're going to have to do some fork travel measuring, because I don't think it's going to work. When you raise the forks 1" to mate with the new top clamp, that's going to pull them up through the lower tree an inch. That will leave 1" less tube below the tree for the lowers to work on. That's going to be an issue I think. Stock, if you fully compress the forks, there's only about 3/4" of space left between the lowers and the bottom tree, and that's without the dust cover. That cover takes up another 5/8" or so. Raise the tubes 1" and I think the lowers will hit the bottom tree when the forks fully compress.
I do run my tubes raised a little bit, but only 1/4" .....
I do run my tubes raised a little bit, but only 1/4" .....
35mm Sportster springs.
Well, thank you for the heads up 5T. My intention, once I get the bike running, is to run it. And then gradually, or not so gradually, find out what changes will improve the bike.
Most older bikes benefit from money spent on the suspension. I don't know if the shocks on the bike are the originals. If they are, they will be old and will probably have lost the damping so will shop for something else like Hagon or YSS. Then, consider whether to upgrade the forks - probably Hagon progressive fork springs and their damping oil. Gary has suggested Sportster springs.
I had been thinking that if those changes stiffened up the front, then lowering it with the SR500 yoke would be a next step. But now, need to think about that.
Perhaps, might be possible to reduce the fork travel by an inch?
But first, might be a good idea to get the bike running . . .
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