Steering column center locking

More notes; the top and bottom outer races are different thicknesses keep the two bearings separate so you don't mix up parts and put the wrong race in the bottom, where it's a serious trick to remove. Yeah that's why I know.
 
Yes, you definitely want to install one of the included grease seals in the All Balls kit in the bottom, but the top doesn't matter. The top grease seal sits on top of the bearing, on top of everything. The grease works it's way out downward due to gravity. There's nothing for that top seal to seal in, the grease moves down and away from it. I leave that top seal out.
 
Question, after removing the steering stem and then knocking out the stock bearing races from the frame neck, what is the best way to remove the original lower ball bearing race still on the steering stem.
Are those often stuck ? :umm:
Thx -R
 
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All Balls Racing bearings. Knock out your races by any means necessary, install new ones, bearing, seat and seal on the bottom, push that sucker up, bearing, seat and seal on the top, and you’re good to go. Dont over tighten.
Agreed man, I planned on getting those, but only if the rules allow it for my class lol. I do have them on my chopper though. I'm hoping to get pretty hard into bike racing in the future. and pinstriping. and engraving...cycle art n shit lol
 
One of these dayz...
Later Yamaha's use a rubber washer between the two nuts and a washer with a tang that drops into both nut's slots. this locks the steering bearing when the top triple is tightened against the top nut with the cap nut but does NOT change the preload as you no longer have to tighten the second nut. New bearings can be quickly ruined if you overload them with the nuts.
A good improvement to the system.
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If you do this and have stock headlight "ears" you will need to add spacers to make up for the increased height, about 3/16" ??
From what year did that change apply? I have nothing like that on my 77 D model.
 
From what year did that change apply? I have nothing like that on my 77 D model.

Sorry, guess I wasn't clear; that set up was found in my 99 royal star and other newer Yamahas. Just think it may be something to adapt to the XS650.
 
Question, after removing the steering stem and then knocking out the stock bearing races from the frame neck, what is the best way to remove the original lower ball bearing race still on the steering stem.
Are those often stuck ? :umm:
Thx -R
They aren't really stuck but are an interference fit and need to be driven out. The stock race has a shelf that you can tap/ hammer on from above with a long drift. The ledge isn't very wide, I have a drift (just a steel rod, a long 1/2" bolt ground a bit would work fine.) that I grind a flat on so it has a bit more contact with the edge. It helps if the rod is fairly big say 1/2" X 12" so you can brace it against the other side of the top race to help keep the bottom on the lip. I'm sure there's an expanding race driver somewhere that world work for this but I haven't felt the need to spend the money. I did buy a fancy race driver kit one time for installing but was not impressed and sold it. I have an old race welded to a piece of pipe to drive in the new races now. :bike:
 
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Question, after removing the steering stem and then knocking out the stock bearing races from the frame neck, what is the best way to remove the original lower ball bearing race still on the steering stem.
Are those often stuck ? :umm:
Thx -R

They aren't really stuck but are an interference fit and need to be driven out. The stock race has a shelf that you can tap/ hammer on from above with a long drift. The ledge isn't very wide,
Yes, the original frame steering neck bearing races are easily knocked out...
So, what about that darn original lower bearing race that is seemingly stuck on the “steering stem”
See what all is not working ? Not even electricity or gorilla tape ...
 
Remove that rubber seal below the race. It's all rubber with no steel band or spring in it so it will stretch over the race. Then you'll see the race sits on a step, overhanging it all around. Drive a large screwdriver or a chisel into that space on both sides, and you can work the race off little by little. It will move easier the farther off you get it, sliding completely free once you've lifted it maybe 1/4" to 3/8".
 
Induction heating of the race, or an oxy-acetylene torch. Or spot weld a piece of tubing to the bearing race, weld a nut to the other end of it, add a bolt, then you have a puller.
I always keep scrap bits of tubing, flat bar etc, which always is handy when a tricky job comes up.
 
You don't need to resort to any of that for this race removal. It taps off easy enough just by driving chisels or big screwdrivers in along both sides. You're not using the points of the tools for the removal but rather their tapered sides. The more you drive them in along the sides, the more the increasing taper lifts the race off.

I put the stock rubber seal back on and use the grease seal provided in the All Balls kit along with it. Grease oozing out the bottom can be an issue, especially if you've installed a grease nipple in the steering neck and have it pumped full.
 
Induction heating of the race, or an oxy-acetylene torch. Or spot weld a piece of tubing to the bearing race, weld a nut to the other end of it, add a bolt, then you have a puller.
Thank you , that all sounds both effective and fun too.
However my Condo garage is so basic that even a sink and running water would be wonderful. A welder and torch ? You lucky dog !
I just keep it simple -RT
 
The biggest part of a torch is the bottles. They sell kits with a torch, 12 ' of hose and a carrying case that uses small bottles.
I bought just the torch and use a milk crate to store everything in an easy to carry kit.
I use a jerk strap to hold the bottles in the corners. I say jerk strap because that's how you tighten it. One bottle in each corner and the hose wound up and tucked in between the bottles.
Sorry, I'm getting off the subject.
Leo
 
Machine, a hatchet, really dude? lol The tool of choice for building a "chopper" I guess, lol. Brings a whole new meaning to the phrase "hatchet job".
 
Remove that rubber seal below the race. It's all rubber with no steel band or spring in it so it will stretch over the race.

You don't need to resort to any of that for this race removal. It taps off easy enough just by driving chisels or big screwdrivers in along both sides.
Kidding aside, the rubber seal under the race did look like an obstacle to reckon with. It does however easily stretch right over the race (thx) and then some easy tapping around in a fashion described above does remove the lower steering stem race free of any damage or really even evidence.
Basic brass punch bars did help.
I disassembled two steering stems today and noticed the 81 frame was equipped with 18 ball bearings in both top and bottom races. My 78E however had 19 ball bearings in both top and bottom races, just surprising.
-RT
 

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According to the parts diagrams, they all take 38 balls total, 19 top, 19 bottom. Someone was probably into that '81 and lost a few, lol.
 
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