Wanted - tx650 tank or equal

Focusinprogress

XS650 Addict
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Looking for the metallic blue with gold tank to replace the one on a tx650 I've acquired that's sat 30yrs with fuel in it. The tank is beautiful on the outside but the inside is rusted so bad the top is thin and has a hole near the gas cap. it's unfortunately unsaveable for use so I'd like to replace it because the bike otherwise is quite nice condition.

if you've got one please email me pics and asking price to:

Nick.moto@citylimitmoto.com

ebay only has dented ones I've been watching for a couple weeks.
 
I seriously doubt that your tank is "unsaveable for use" as you put it. Clean the interior using abrasives such as drywall screws and/or a mild acid solution such as vinegar over several days. The interior does not have to be perfect, you really just need to get rid of most of the scale and flaking rust, leaving a relatively stable surface. The interior does not need to be perfect! Especially important in your case if the metal is thin as you say -- you don't want to completely erode or dissolve what's left. Then coat with Caswell's. First tape over any holes. The Caswell's will bridge over the holes and is very effective and simple for this type of repair. I've done it. It will restore the thin areas.
If you do find a new tank, save the box it comes in, and send it to me -- I'll buy it.
 
the top is paper thin, it flexes an extreme amount and has a hole in it big enough to put an M4 bolt through. if I put anything it it I'm guessing it'll erode whatever is left on the top and it will be even worse, I figure it's too big a gamble.
 
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From what I see, that tank is absolutely saveable. I can't see the bottom, but I see no flaking at all. I think you can Caswell it as is. An M4 bolt size hole is nothing, requiring no reinforcement, just a temporary piece of tape over the hole until the liner cures. The liner will reinforce the soft spots, they will no longer flex.
I'll take it if you don't want it.
 
From what I see, that tank is absolutely saveable. I can't see the bottom, but I see no flaking at all. I think you can Caswell it as is. An M4 bolt size hole is nothing, requiring no reinforcement, just a temporary piece of tape over the hole until the liner cures. The liner will reinforce the soft spots, they will no longer flex.
I'll take it if you don't want it.
DB this is a tank I have available, first dibs to focus in progress. I want to keep the emblems.
 
That appears to be equal parts rust and moist fuel residue with a healthy deposit of evaporated fuel goo at the bottom. It will take a bit of work, but is savable if you are willing.
Acetone will dissolve the fuel deposits, and acid will remove the rust. Unfortunately, both will also damage the paint, so some care will need to be taken.
Remove the gas cap. It's just going to get in the way, and you will disassemble and restore it separately.
I'd begin by putting a straight level across the cap, and putting the tank on a very secure work top where it can remain undisturbed for long periods, and leveling it. It is fortunate that the holes are near the very top. Tape over the holes with non-vinyl and non-plastic tape such as painter's tape. Fill the tank to the very brim with acetone and monitor. It might take hours for the goo at the bottom to dissolve. Keep an eye on the taped-over holes.

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You will need a strategy to remove the acetone without getting it all over the tank paint. This is what I do. I blank off one of the petcock holes, and I put a simple drain on the other petcock hole. The little wooden dowel on the left-hand drain slides out easily, allowing me to open the drain without disturbing the full-to-the-brim tank. You need to drain into glass containers or the original metal containers. The chunky stuff will settle to the bottom of the containers, and the acetone can be reused indefinitely until it eventually all evaporates with use. Repeat if you think it will help.
Now you can repeat the whole process with acid. In my initial post I suggested vinegar, which will work, but might take days. Muriatic acid from Home Depot will work faster, but still might take days. When satisfied, drain, rinse, and neutralize with tap water with a little Clorox or baking soda in it.
This is a basic guide and strategy, but you will have to pay attention to what is happening and adjust accordingly. The end result does not have to be spotless. Even if it is spotless, it will immediately flash rust when it dries. This is nothing, you can apply Caswell's over the rust, you just don't want the rust to be thick or loose.
One more thing. Despite your best efforts, you will inevitably get acetone and acid on the paint, so you should take measures to mask the tank with clear stretch wrap, or even garbage bags, or aluminum foil, or both.
If it sounds like too much, I'll buy the tank.
 
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