Hi Lo switch

Dune19670

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The Hi Lo switch on my 83 Heritage L/H controls is broken and im wondering if the actual switch inside the body can be purchased??
Or, is there another year/model/ bike which will fit or if somebody has one they want to sell me ?? ( im in the UK )
Thankyou
 

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Ck with Mike's XS.. I got a pair of switches for my 75' and wire'd them into the 75' system. You could try our local cycle breaker...we call them boneyards.... Sport Wheels.... (they have a web site) fSportwheel 031.JPG for a used unit.
 
You can't get the little parts for inside separately, you'll have to scrounge them from other assemblies. Your control is rather unique because it has the choke lever on it. That was only used for a couple years. Parts from switch assemblies back to '77 should swap in. I'm not sure about ones older than that but they might too. Parts from other model's switches may swap too (XS360, XS400, XS500).
 
Being in the UK makes it problematic for getting small parts from the US........have you tried some of the European XS650 clubs?
 
Ive only posted a wanted thread on a UK Xs650 Facebook page.
There are a few on Ebay in the Uk but are a little over priced
 
On many of the used bar switches I have taken apart, that hi lo lever is very fragile and falls apart as if the housing was the only thing holding it together, so don't pay a big price for a used item.
This is a part that some enterprising tech wiz could 3D scan and then print out on one of them new fangled printers.
 
Well ive purchased a complete L/H switchgear off a 77 XS650 off someone in the Uk for £20 incl postage, so hopefully it will fit and still be intact
 
It won't have the choke lever like your '83 unit, but all the internal parts should swap.
 
If the 77 switch is from a Euro bike is will probably have an extra button on it.........Pass switch......
P1030208 copy.jpg Text.jpg
 
Just a quick update, for future reference.
The internal Hi Lo switch from a 77 Xs is a direct replacement for my 83 Heritage
 

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Keep all the extra parts of course. In particular, the horn button can also be used as a starter button in the other control assembly if need be.
 
On many of the used bar switches I have taken apart, that hi lo lever is very fragile and falls apart as if the housing was the only thing holding it together, so don't pay a big price for a used item.
This is a part that some enterprising tech wiz could 3D scan and then print out on one of them new fangled printers.

Yes, I can confirm that this is feasible…

For my 73- TX, the left side on/off light switch handle had been broken off by a previous owner… after scouring eBay for a few weeks I decided that I wasn’t into paying the crazy amount that people want for a used switch, so I decided to 3D scan the broken switch lever and then import the scan into a 3D CAD package in order to add the missing lever… Unfortunately the 3D scan file was too big to import into my CAD package so I did the next best thing and digitized the profile from the 2D top view of the scan.

V898W3LhAVgf-cAP82T80OK7qASwvICrjXarsROy49dh47aLGHeaHlGnZbHiHstecZOmbHibcm15z6lSEQ4cbefY-HqzR_5tmt65NN_d4mDhgajCk-CX7UeM6YFnZsZHPatjF_FpsfrAexTFMB1a2NLv9R-nrvlQkH-zd5wzlgFsb5nzNp6zMGB_I7UU5J7mlwxmeZSZCCEEYnny3JF8JrFPmDQsBi_JJ9sONx9bQQOS16lEpLt4z-4Z6dN6GiWHiRd3Kv8cGyg4Xml7oLjhmVzHxvknrx_jleOAz98G-sKrZUkhs5jVEb8iiQIcqb4z1DcaILuDEyz9caHRaJtOWTpLtAinB1SV7TwnefabQ0Cta1OFwORbkSGNTuL056ltTfq4hwCY7k9LBEX7cl2Qt7vmpJ0XGj4lWbF-7UU6GT0uw5CtzlGZvJIZHo127YvnbzLOPmnkEDxYzDD9nYtCL_BdNN-QJuGZ1IFnmK4OqQQBR93ioM8VK8fpj_H2LsSM1VnAw2FQp57LzQO3uLUapfUT0abCb9jP6ivQfK0UD9TBHdyHBHH2_sVx4c05eukPDr4A_lMeU5FOa8hNlmMpQsvOI9TBekkIgib7V6j-ujtaEvr2LtLVdCPc1gS-qf7jgjpiV3-rwXrsjtH-bbIFI-NY2uSOIRVwmLWVhrbgZ7cJeJjHJPw-fJdkOOluSYRn48ltIHKD44L4RlPHupc8S0zyzQ=w1069-h894-no


From there a 3D solid model was generated…

YJEEz8Itlny6FRtzy4OvqKbz6vU-tHeUr-yhF_x9RhR2h-rXcarAAVDMUtMXkzySa4o0CQ5a6Clkz5k_SSg9mJ-DM-8W30_vHGvOynljxL1W0WLXcZTW3C_6uLIYvREtnmPrDvULHzCThAspiDT06cGqcja_WaMLJbFnO1HkeXaQac_s90LYt5rkp7xcXI5N_k4u_tjJkiJdTq-rKUdT2_qeVzbTg4vMk1bnVCNzwqbq03_K5awPH47wFk9fijJeFVBEFpuZz5E5hpQZ4widYK12TKEQJfTKRgw0m2SKHRH8UqZSFFq87haD1OiUZpwENDJ3AOuhUErGPQGpB4p5Tb2tM2tzg8jNUyXCZDC2NlU_tbB-m2bM8gkN-fdQXDF0XHX69mxhQQimqgQ4fmgYuhmDr052dX66vFRBr9ur77EUPlznsGRO5T2uHtwvvIkHxCXIJJGJ8iEz2LJqKkJGVoq1iX8UMWBalLVv0EfuZvJFXkIcfU1KVqApBPQ-biFa2X0DmehitNhYCtjrrF1OdBBydztvZ4EiXu2E3hm2CtGv7XI8w5LqbHreMrn4AyMvIPR4-J83CUVi_KnHngg0oGE3LbBBpgMNA3gNZVAQukfyjjP8ndKWN637jtL-8HBSdjycmmrFXjNyNvDoAzHbha92K_yjqqYd4ORDE81Gl2leqUcpOT5F5Pi3IAvyg98mEDDDZP_hWspV5AYhZthKom9TPw=w1095-h823-no


And then 3D printed… after test fitting, a few versions, I decided on adding a little bit more material to the surface that slides on the handle bar, and made the part a tad thicker than OEM to remove some of the slop in the original assembly...

VXdFDgsVrBdFrBN3fXTK-0gQTWf3THP-rD9maG9X-eIJ2X-uwJ2H8sAKXVBqi7prVSGRcckNinsy44dpNHkQITBIQt73pkFxpDetVaYuuH7-ZEAtC4JzHqj9z_olsejDVl-9fTDNIvyH7T5dtGGzVFMkGi_Ohwh4PVQOwOLWkQ47Bv-HLqsxRv7hHGvX1b2WV913mCDK4_E-5pfTaVpS0iYFEyjVrfMdlK7WwNfauZjq1ombzTL10RSvaH3QqyNSScd3CMQ1o4-HMjKoE_zUtaeaf5820gFAT902abc5V84_Y4cFgMiWRKN6cjfUG_jHclKzPNWXmY67b68DbjlQ9d5tqHt3yNWQ5VJrNCDTvGIphAYFczRvDVbXCX7FDbh12PiTNZ5PFce8n5bp_GR89FG7QRbGicar7ztS2iXF9pvoWuZde7iVausFOuVtTm15bevGubgF5TvtGZwMZp-QZPG1FE3CxEteK6W2DJOsUHIDetsQrMcSPTys3mQTp4OsflQLCmf3uDYLVsjF5BYM-SlBS6TXSeJ5rrCsGdoikA-4WuvsyP0tvot97H03eA5AqmfqZmNLdcrIyoUl1KPlZjti1u3C-SnQYTBq0mrKnR-P4_8hgk4LPgBnHd6gbmsSVLgLG7pKqO6NwdQDNNyS5d6sYybr3tePmDKS_JCDLt0b2mtY6o9vN811ZoVhxChg2mpqwNLEPdnRopr4MstCJE6Czw=w1807-h1248-no


One last test fit… and back onto the bike… the actual button is from a later year assembly, I had to shim the button cavity as it appears that they made the lever arm thicker in later years… hmm, I wonder why.. :lmao:

bZH78VoN-Fu3b_NKhtKdMitFE0XfUImMm8asrg8EmwLI7turLFEnYcolLWY2t8sPPpsENt2fJwSiMqQpo4kD5o__4TeRQ2QOeCTReD_PzZnAmA3pghUyQt0XRhV-y5sD4aMwN8Bc3ApR8lnfEIvBRCUVKICdQSSykKsZCqCZiEtRad0cajTAudukcZdjGfvCYQmutE4I7BYfaFM08W6C2E3x2waKLWkZkqNiTEkBqDn16kGopbecjDucT_5athePOvj-IeSAziJczR3Ko0m3Gzv1AU-dzkj8YRFSKm8TR9sIVycrCs39uZ50oW_v2uJnNK1WbFz8blDwNR0qVrezNHiW8yA-D20LPTqKH8QlyuvfGf2uM52TSN96AhMEdVHoC5IYjTQv0Eb_svBEvL-1gCirVIZ9f7sjp_kfpDNxNedKH7GXYm-XXMQs4MO8RqPpGNlwaBbUHWQW8SFe6aTMlyt2xspNlU30YnM0HL6kieGDs1WKgkL8RVRO1SwVQUVE-VmYMaUAkMB-aKXL1QZCrLK1D9b-LGAdEtKaNMTRJDC4ilur9dTxGpB_qqTb-sP_rVsbArNybgJdjsSrzsE4taE8WW7_mKq4_Z4v_TIXgBKhaF1h85R8qHoEFpKCFc1ZJxwLVhtWUwAnYjEnYqhPzztmgOVAzqphpuvho1b_RjJNJ2uvDTOZ-Uw-0kW_Po6JFgkeeiLRbC5096STlqkVawsKPw=w1253-h1248-no


:cheers:
 
Excellent!!! Are you gonna sell these? I need one.
EDIT: I need the Hi-Low switch.
 
Hi Jim, as far as I can tell the hi/lo appears to be a mirror image of the on/off… unfortunately I don’t have “regular” access to a 3D printer, so no plans along those lines…
 
Wow! That is very creative! My left hand switch gear on my XS2 had a broken headlight switch. I t was also missing some internal parts. I wound up cobbling together parts from three different switches. The early switches suffered a lot of failures because the part that passes through the switch housing, that the button screws to, is very spindly. They really beefed up the later models. I am oh so careful now when working my switches.
 
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