Yam_Tech314's official build thread

OK.... I'll give ya one....

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I promise I copied his methods as accurately as possible (without buffing for now)

It has already taught me a good bit. Like how to use my elbows, legs, and back just to sand a piece of metal!!!

I really am happy that he has a post on here on how-to.

I didn't even know there was a seal of approval, but having earned one makes me feel better than earning a forum trophy!

He seems like he had a lotta fun with some of you guys. Just really needed to give credit where credit was due.

On to the next piece of metal! The left side cover...
 
You’re off to a good start! The more you do it, the more you will learn, and the easier it gets. Personally I find it very satisfying.

I hope I honored RobinC by using his methods

You did! :)

I hope this would make him happy.

It would! Robin really mastered the art, and he loved to pass that info along. He would’ve been the first to cheer your efforts.

Good for you brother! :thumbsup:
 
Hopefully (although I never met him here, or in person) I've given most of you only good vibes! Did not mean to bring sadness to anyone. Like I said, I just wanted to let everyone know that his album of the sanding is what helped me so much.

No no , not at all. Happy you shared your success. I’m enjoying your posts. :)
 
Back at it again with some of my spare time.

Decided to just go all out on this guy all day today and got it looking pretty good. Can't wait to see it all buffed.
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Also, has anyone ever tried filling in lettering with just spray can black? How well does it work?

Trying it now... But figured if it's a had idea I can scrape at it while it's still wet.
 
Also, has anyone ever tried filling in lettering with just spray can black? How well does it work?
Works good, Just make sure it's an "engine paint." Mask a rectangle around the letters, spray a coupls coats, then use a rag dampened with acetone or lacquer thinner to wipe off around the letters. Let the paint "tack over," but don't let it dry fully before wiping.
 
Works good, Just make sure it's an "engine paint." Mask a rectangle around the letters, spray a coupls coats, then use a rag dampened with acetone or lacquer thinner to wipe off around the letters. Let the paint "tack over," but don't let it dry fully before wiping.


...too late... Kinda thought I'd just wetsand it again once it's fully dry.

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I used this
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If you "just" did it, you got a couple hrs wipe time. Wrap the rag tight around your fingers, dip in solvent, wipe gently... repeat as necessary.
 
if it's laying flat I rattlecan in the can cap and paint brush it into the letters real heavy, makes a nice smooth glossy face.

I used a pick, but did the same thing. Had a paper cup laying around, filled it with some spray paint and dripped it in to just about the top. If I get too close with a rag and solvent I fear I'll mess up the paint. Is it a hard task to sand off the excess when it cures?? (If you couldn't tell, I'm not steady handed. I dripped paint all over the damn thing)
 
You can be real neat if you wrap one layer of fine rag (say pillowcase, tee shirt is too stretchy) on a stick add (not too much) solvent and rub with the flat side of the stick. change to a clean area of the cloth frequently.
 
If you don’t mind, I would like to share a little info with you, about how you can create an inexpensive buffing station.
Ok, you don’t have a dedicated buffer, neither do I. BUT you’ve got yourself a brand new bench grinder that you can make do double duty. You can buy just a few inexpensive items and have yourself a decent buffing set up.
I’ll show you how I set mine up. You can pick this stuff up at Harbor Freight if you have one near you, or get eBay equivalents.
A stitched wheel for doing the initial buffing. A stitched wheel is firmer and allows you to press harder against it for a better initial cut.
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With the stitched wheel, use black compound applied directly to the wheel. I usually dampen the wheel with a spray bottle of water
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After the initial shine is up, you can use a little mineral spirits on a rag and wipe the residue off of your piece. And move to the soft wheel to really make your shine bright.
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Use a white compound on the soft wheel. Keep a spray bottle with water handy and periodically mist your wheel, it helps lubricate and work faster.
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I usually move outdoors to do my buffing because it is messy. I recommend wearing gloves and a filter mask and eye protection. Here you can see I simply clamp my grinder to a card table. It has to be fastened down somehow.
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If the cover you want to polish has clear coat on it, it can be removed with paint stripper first, prior to sanding.
I have done exactly what you’re doing. Start with wet sanding , progress to 1000-1500 grit.
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Then the method I outlined above. After your final buffing, hit it with some blue magic metal polish, or an equivalent, you’ll be surprised how much black stuff you’ll remove from a shiny looking piece. I’ve done this method on two bikes and these are the results.
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Everybody has their own method, and you will develop your own. I just hoped to give you some ideas about how you could do this in an affordable way using the bench grinder that you already have.
Good luck,
Bob
 
I just hoped to give you some ideas about how you could do this in an affordable way using the bench grinder that you already have.

What a great piece of advice... I'll have to work extra hard to get my bench built now that I've got reason for it.

I live very close to harbor freight, and admittedly have never stepped foot in one .

I'll be sure to grab all the awesome goodies you've listed above.

Advice being given, I actually have another very important question that I'm sure you or someone else will be able to answer. I have a 76. To my knowledge my swingarm is stock, and the rear drum spoked wheel fit well with a spacer on each side.

I'm trading my wheel spacers for a set of mags. (I like them better for some reason)

When I make the change, I'll be getting the rear caliper sent to me as well (I was told it acts as a rear wheel spacer.) My question is, what else will I need to modify slightly to get a rear brake cyl. On? And what will I need in terms of a rear axle? Are they all the same width, length, and thread count? I wanna get this right the first time.
 
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