Yam_Tech314's official build thread

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I've always loved this Triumph T120 tank . . .
 
I was wondering why my mock ups consistently looked... ...off. that explains it. The logo on the tank really kinda looks out of place when it's up under a gas cap like that...
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Perhaps I should do away with the logo on the tank, and put it on the front fender instead! Or... Somewhere. Did I just spoil my paint scheme plan?

IN OTHER NEWS.

Progress has been made. $500 in paint/primer/prep down the drain.

Not fer' nuthin though! What do we think??
 

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Hey!... sparkley blue for the tank and fenders! It'll "pop" against the graphite! :bike:

You read my mind.

I'm thinking Black Pearl aka the color you see on my headlight bucket.(frame and other pieces)

Metallic blue for tank and side covers (possibly mags when I get them)

And the prototype stripe you guys see, I wanna make that a mix of darker/lighter blue, and a metallic gray/silver. Need some serious help with Photoshop though. I can't visualize that very well...
 
More colored pencils!!! Before computers (the Analog Age), I worked on high school and college news papers. "Cut & paste" meant physically cutting paper and pasting it on copy to create the finished product. So, print a copy of a picture of your tank, in the desired perspective, and embellish it with colored pencil, to visualize your idea of what it should look like. Easy, primitive, effective. Then, paint your tank accordingly. "There's no school like old school". You don't need advanced computer skills. What kind of computers were there when your bike was made? :wink2:
 
Not perfect by any means, but a job done to the best of my abilities is a job I consider well done!

By the way... Why did no one tell me that a die grinder was so useful???
 

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I have a 76. To my knowledge my swingarm is stock, and the rear drum spoked wheel fit well with a spacer on each side.

I'm trading my wheel spacers for a set of mags. (I like them better for some reason)

When I make the change, I'll be getting the rear caliper sent to me as well
This indicates you intend to switch wheels to mags correct ? Rear disc brake and a 16” rear wheel ?
There are things to consider such as how this wheel change will not just lower your 76 rear end a tad but how that will affect the steering as well. Are you considering longer shocks to raise the rear back up? Gearing changes? Perhaps lowering the front a smidge.. how much will less ground clearance matter?
What you are after is both interesting and appealing and I am cheering you on , but cautiously as I as well have considered similar mods.
-R
 
This indicates you intend to switch wheels to mags correct ?

Are you considering longer shocks to raise the rear back up?

Yes. Yes. And yes. I'm taking my first stab at all of the above. I AM aware that the mags are smaller in diameter, I plan to put it on more modern, longer shocks to make the rear stand where it needs to, but I'm a shorter fella so stance is gonna be my final battle.

Right now, I'm future proofing, as I've realized that I wanted rear disc as soon as I saw that a mag drum rear was so SALTY. I'm glad you've brought all of this to my attention, however. These are ALL factors I've failed to consider. I'll tread carefully.

In other news, the welds came out nicely!
 

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You are doing some really exceptional work! I re-read this from the beginning, and I'm in awe of your progress and growth throughout this build. But some recent questions, regarding your bike's stance, lead me to wonder: have you actually given any thought to lowering the front end (excellent articles in the "Tech" section)? And while you're at it, going through the forks (seals, check the springs, whether or not you want to do the "Minton mods" or valve emulators, etc.). Or am I getting ahead of yourself? :doh:
 
I'm in awe of your progress and growth throughout this build.
My goodness, thanks so much man! I'm honestly just doing my very best.

The progress I've made since July (When I moved into the house with garage) surprised me a ton. I was looking back today wondering how I found the time lol!
I'm extraordinarily proud of myself. I've wanted this my whole life, and I'm making it happen no matter what.

while you're at it, going through the forks (seals, check the springs, whether or not you want to do the "Minton mods" or valve emulators, etc.).

I don't know what "Minton mods" or "valve emulators are YET. But I'll look and read, and learn.

I'll be rebuilding the forks for sure. I've noticed some softness, and I'd rather KNOW they were rebuilt then just assume I know where they're at in their service life span.

As far as lowering the front end goes, I may very well do that, depending on how I want my riding position to feel. In my opinion, If I lower it too much, I'll need to add rear sets, and make things much more complicating than intended.

While it may now seem hard to believe, I still would like to keep it as stock as possible (with the exception of my recent rear cyl. Mod.) That means as far as I'm concerned, as long as the handling is good, I'm happy with a mild mod
 
If I lower it too much, I'll need to add rear sets, and make things much more complicating than intended.
Just cannot believe that is necessary. You do need to find suitable rear shocks of a longer length
(length still undetermined) :umm:
And in threads I’ve watched, we do not have too many choices.
Very nice going on your project bike as well as very good changes in the home shop !
I enjoy following -R
 

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A fork "rebuild", like the rebuilds of many other systems (brakes, carbs), consists mostly of a thorough cleaning. The fork oil can get quite dirty over time and you can get a pretty fair amount of sludge built up in the bottoms of the lowers. But fork oil doesn't get very hot in use. That means it doesn't dissolve that sludge and it doesn't get rinsed or drained out when you change the fork oil. About the only way to get it all out is to physically swab out the insides of the forks, wiping them clean. I have a little "special tool" I made up for this. It's nothing more than a length of 1/4" steel rod with a small eye bent on one end. You thread a rag through it, wrap it around the rod, dip it in solvent, then swab the inside of the lower or tube out .....

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