Sloped MC reservoir

Hi David,
used brake caliper & disk prices are reasonable, it's the shipping that'll kill the deal and if it can't be gotten locally a M/C is the lightest thing to ship.
:agree:
So many times now seeing XS guys in OZ to Scotland I’ve wished it was reasonable to send parts over seas ..
Besides the redicilous shipping price, at the Post office the line and listed declaration is enough to piss a simple guy off ! A strip search at the airport would be faster and easier..
I sure wish it were easier to send abroad ..
-R
 
I read that the cheap Chinese/Ebay MCs have an 80% failure rate. I tried one and it failed before I got it fitted. So I went for a good quality secondhand Yamaha Virago XV400 MC. It is a 12.7mm and gave very good braking compared to the original XS Special MC. The XV400 MC is quite small in size. Often the second hand MCs just need a good clean inside and out without the need to fit a news MC kit.
 
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Yes, I like that 12.7mm (1/2") size. As far as rebuild kits go, they can be pretty expensive from Yamaha but I'm hoping these Banggood offerings will do the trick if need be .....

https://www.banggood.com/Motorcycle...001-p-1249916.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

https://www.banggood.com/12_7mm-Mot...ent-p-1068821.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

They're so silly cheap, I've picked up a couple just to have on hand. All I've needed to use so far was a rubber boot for the lever end of the piston and it seemed to fit fine and is working OK so far. I've compared the seals to the originals and they look the same, but I haven't needed any yet.
 
Appreciate that Daniel.

Just got back from my workshop and no luck David, I recently sold a bunch of parts I’m not using on my build to a guy off Facebook, I think I must of given it to him as a bonus with all the stuff he bought from me.

I’m so sorry I couldn’t be of more help!
 
David, where do you stand on your M/C? I kinda been out of pocket. Nope, not Mikes. Too many problems. I think the mirror mount threads In Mikes M/C are 8mm and standard CW threads. Of course, Yam's are 10mm X CCW. I used the angled M/C on mine because I could just get a little fluid in the flat one on the pull-backs without it going everywhere. With the bars turned I could get a little more fluid in it but I had seep problems at the cap. I think I got 4 M/C before I got one with a good reservoir. I did end up with parts. I used Mikes seal kit and seemed to have no problem. Amazon had the same kit. I still had to use a Male 10mm CW X Female 10mm CW X 20mm high stand-off on the clutch lever to marry the height of the mirrors. PITA. But it's easier than trying to find a Male 8mm CW to a Female 10mm CCW so you can fit the stock mirror to Mikes. And, then you still have to have the clutch stand off. And, then you still have to build your brake light pig-tail from your M/C to inside your head light bucket. I had to use a stainless wire out of a wire brush held with needle nose to clean the tiny pressure hole under the forward reservoir tab. I used the ultra-sonic cleaner but also wrapped medium steel wool around a small gun cleaning brush on it's rod and chucked it in a drill to buff the inside of the cylinder. Don't know about using a 14mm M/C with two calipers?
You probably already know all this stuff and have the job done. I might forget this stuff tomorrow and have to refer back to it. :laugh:

Thu
 
Actually, it's been reported that the stock 14mm MC is better suited to 2 calipers than just the one it was mated to. Most of the Jap front brakes from this era seemed to have this issue. They hadn't quite figured out the ideal size ratio between the MC and the caliper piston(s) it was pushing yet.
 
5Twins, Yeah, I don't see why the 14mm M/C wouldn't work if the system was air free. I think the bleeder on the caliper is at the top. I had no problem bleeding my system.
 
Actually, it's been reported that the stock 14mm MC is better suited to 2 calipers than just the one it was mated to.
Second that. I’ve only briefly experienced a double disc addition but felt immediate improvement. But..
Like being in the “buckhorn gang” mention adding a disc and you get slammed with reasons of how wrong that is.
Okay :whistle:
 
Thanks BTM. I do appreciate the effort. I have found a serviceable one on eBay but it will cost $145.00 (AUD) to arrive on my doorstep. Oh well, I can't take it with me! On the other hand, I might widen my search to include the XV400. Lots of good advice and opinion here. Thanks folks
 
one on eBay but it will cost $145.00 (AUD) to arrive on my doorstep.
Good luck David, sorry It is so much effort, cost, and time to help you Australians down there. Thought, perhaps member Skull can help you locate options. ?
-Randy west coast USA
 
If you're going to have to pay like that, you might as well get something better than the stock size. Yes, search out that XV400 one, it's perfect. That's a model we didn't get here in the States. Ours was a 500.
 
Success!! Located an MC from a 1989 Yamaha Route 66 XV250 with 9731 miles.
Cost me $99(AUD)
delivered here but looks good and has all the specs listed in this thread. Listen to the advice given here in the Forum and you get ahead - never fails.
Thanks 5T and everyone else for your interest.
Cheers
 

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So, the M/C I acquired above was a no show. Apparently it was "damaged in storage" and the buyer wouldn't sell it to me. Gave me a full refund so I can't complain about the service but, for a while, I was back on the hunt. Took Machine's advice from post #2, searched the wrecker's listings and found this one off a '95 Virago in Sydney for $95 (AUD) delivered. One of the cap screws was buggered but I organised new ones and a new reservoir diaphragm, cleaned it up and now it looks like this, (see photos). The piston action appears smooth so I haven't fitted a new kit. Will paint it up, (I actually like it as shown but I've bought a new black lever in anticipation of giving it a coat of paint and the clutch side is black), put it on the bike and see if it works without leaks.
In terms of the cylinder kit, the ridiculously cheap item from Banggood in Gary's post #23, is 12.7mm. Can you tell me if it will fit this 1/2" XV master which should nominally be 12.5mm? If this master leaks or doesn't pump brake fluid, I'd like to buy a few of these and fit one.
 

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1/2" equals 12.7mm so that Banggood kit should fit. Although I didn't use any of the seals in the kits I got, I compared them to the originals and they look to be the same size. Once you fill it and start bleeding it, don't give up on it if it doesn't build pressure right away. Once mine was filled and fluid was pulled through down to the caliper, I still wasn't getting any lever pressure. I had to draw 2 or 3 more reservoir's full of fluid through it before I got lever pressure. I'm thinking there were still trapped air bubbles in there that needed to be dislodged, and it took a bit of fluid drawn through the system to do that.
 
Yep, What 5Twins said. But there is an easy less messy way to get most of the air out of the system before bleeding the caliper. The caliper bleed is on the top so it's easy to let the fluid run to push most of the air out. First, after everything is hooked up; When the m/c is installed the reservoir may be level. Turn the bars to the left so the line end of the reservoir points down a bit. Fill res about 1/2 full. Do not squeeze the brake handle more than 1/4 inch! Just pull in slowly 1/4 inch and you will see the bubbles rise. When you give just a small movement on the brake handle and see a bubble just at the top of the( rear larger hole) bleed back hole, touch the top of the bubble with a tooth pick or the end of a zip tie. Do not stick the tooth pick or zip tie in the hole. You will ruin the seal. This action will bleed all the air out of the M/C. You will know when your about there because the big bubbles will turn to little small bubbles and mist. Now you will not be bleeding all the air in the MC down thru the lines and caliper. Now just open the bleed screw on the caliper. (use a small 5/16 box end). Put a paper towel or rag around the area. Keep an eye on the fluid level in your M/C. If you don't see fluid after a bit, close the nipple and apply the brake lever about 1/2 inch and hold it. Reach down and crack the nipple. Wait a few seconds and close it and release the brake. Do it again. Do not let up on the brake lever while the caliper bleed is open! What your doing is using the fluid to move the air out of the lines and caliper without a lot of pressure shooting fluid across the room. This wastes very little fluid. After a good flow of fluid from the caliper, try the brake. It should be pretty good. Pull the lever firmly a few times. If spongy you may have one or two bubbles in the caliper. Crack the nipple, carefully, while holding firmly on the brake. Try it again if need be but it's about as good as it gets. This works just the same for front duals and rear systems.
Thu
 
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