What to do with a 1972

Is that a bad thing? I’m in Fla and they’re pretty strict. They were actually giving me shit because there wasn’t enough VIN #s.
 
In PA you have to get a court order and go in front of a judge and tell how you got it without a title. No telling what will happen next.
 
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The 72 has the compression release lever that also triggers the starter. Does this system work good or would it be better to replace it with a push button?
 
The 72 has the compression release lever that also triggers the starter. Does this system work good or would it be better to replace it with a push button?
They both work well. If you don't want to start on one cylinder just remove the cable or adjust it so it does nothing. It will start better on 2 cylinders.
 
im curious if you have made a decision yet about what to do with the bike, my vote was for #3
Do what I want with it and not be concerned with the originality of it.

hoping to see your custom build come about, :)
 
im curious if you have made a decision yet about what to do with the bike, my vote was for #3
Do what I want with it and not be concerned with the originality of it.

hoping to see your custom build come about, :)
I would like to do #3 but not sure how to fix the title issue, legally. Its a descent original unmolested starter for a build. Would hate to have to put the frame in the trash. I think some of the air in the tires is from Japan. Might have to buy another frame but so far can't find one with a title that's not chopped up. Or sell it as is or keep the good stuff and buy another project bike with a title.
 
Just going to throw this in here, may make a difference to your plans.
Looking at your pics, you might take the "super low" mileage with a grain of salt. Speedo looks much better than tach and appears to be sitting on a bent mount. IE it may have been replaced after a crash. Repaints always raise my antenna about previous damage also. I tend to pull a compression test pretty early on. Part of my wake up drill with top end lube and lots of kicking it through to get the internal parts used to moving again. Hanging a valve on a motor that's set for a long time happens.
 
Just going to throw this in here, may make a difference to your plans.
Looking at your pics, you might take the "super low" mileage with a grain of salt. Speedo looks much better than tach and appears to be sitting on a bent mount. IE it may have been replaced after a crash. Repaints always raise my antenna about previous damage also. I tend to pull a compression test pretty early on. Part of my wake up drill with top end lube and lots of kicking it through to get the internal parts used to moving again. Hanging a valve on a motor that's set for a long time happens.
Very true. I'll have to do a compression test.
 
This has special relevance to me (more on THAT later) but get the forks pointed straight, and sight down from low in front check how the wheels line up......
These early frames are pretty light, not much bracing, doesn't take a lot to "tweak" them in a crash or flop over. Again just things you want to find out BEFORE investing a lot of time, money in a project.
 
This has special relevance to me (more on THAT later) but get the forks pointed straight, and sight down from low in front check how the wheels line up......
These early frames are pretty light, not much bracing, doesn't take a lot to "tweak" them in a crash or flop over. Again just things you want to find out BEFORE investing a lot of time, money in a project.
Good idea. Any help or suggestions are appreciated. I restored a 1980 corvette about 15 years ago. It was a 3 year project so I have some experience with this kind of stuff. It was a low mileage car but I found lots of incorrect stuff. The car got Top Flight from the NCRS first time judged.
 
Chicken and egg, anything over 100 will run, Often readings come up quite a bit after a couple hundred miles are put on a been sitting motor. But round numbers, a 150 is considered to be a healthy stock motor. 140 is fine to ride and put on miles. 130 is getting down into the going to need work territory.
 
here in Oregon, I get titles by hiring a title lein company, they put a lien on the bike for the monetary interst I have in the bike then in 45 or 60 days (cant remember) I get a "poseserary note" from the state, I take that to the dmv and get the title... TADA!
 
Did a cold compression test (can't do a warm one yet) got 110 and 115. Not bad for an engine that's been siting for about 4 years and who knows when the last time it was on the road. I did put oil in the cylinders and on the cam best I could. It wasn't easy to kick, must be a real pain with higher compression. Took some pictures through the spark plug holes and inside the intake valve covers. Everything looks good. No marks on the cam lobes and the top of the pistons only have a slight amount of carbon on them. It looks like the one piston has an arrow on it and the other one maybe number or letter.
Next will be trying to start it. I'm thinking I should get some new coils and plug wires first. The one plug cap is missing the connector that attaches to the plug.
 

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here in Oregon, I get titles by hiring a title lein company, they put a lien on the bike for the monetary interst I have in the bike then in 45 or 60 days (cant remember) I get a "poseserary note" from the state, I take that to the dmv and get the title... TADA!
That's nice. I'll sell you the bike then when you get the title back you can sell it to me :).
 
These old bikes can fool you. When I went to go look at the bike I bought, it too had been sitting for more than thirty years in a dry climate, it also had very low miles. It was running when I first saw it.

Later I tore the engine down for a rebuild and this is what the jugs looked like! :yikes:
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I would like to do an engine rebuild. That's why I got this bike it was cheep and I didn't care that much about the condition. Hope to get it running then take it to my basement shop and work on it over the winter. I need something to do on those cold days.
 
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