What have you done to your XS today?

My '77 starts first time, every time with a quarter of a kick - which impresses dogs, small children and the occasional young lady at the gas station on the back of an electric start only cruiser - and I rarely use the electric foot, though it's good to have especially if stalled in traffic. I lost my starter button a week or so ago and replaced it with one I had in the parts pile.
Today I hit the button just for old times sake and nothing happened. I'm not sure I tested it when I replaced it.......
So I broke the switch down again for inspection and the voltmeter out to test for continuity and voltage. Continuity from the ground post on the battery to where it mounts to the frame was sporadic. Cleaned that up. Checked power to the solenoid...was good. Checked continuity on the L/W from the switch to the solenoid. Good too. Hm. Dug out another button from the parts pile and proceeded to swap again.
On reassembly I noticed the stamped metal wire hold down/ground piece set just a millimeter or two above the switch body section that semi encircles the handlebar (the bottom half of the switch). Off that piece came for a minor adjustment. Laying it up on the vice and a couple of taps on the bent section that comes down to contact the handlebar and then reinstalled. Now that contact piece sets about a millimeter or two below the semicircle, contacting the handlebar before the switch housing. Buttoned everything back up, key on, hit the button and we're back in business.
Was it the button? Probably. Was it the ground? Could be. Is it a tale? Yep.
 
My '77 starts first time, every time with a quarter of a kick - which impresses dogs, small children and the occasional young lady at the gas station on the back of an electric start only cruiser - and I rarely use the electric foot, though it's good to have especially if stalled in traffic. I lost my starter button a week or so ago and replaced it with one I had in the parts pile.
Today I hit the button just for old times sake and nothing happened. I'm not sure I tested it when I replaced it.......
So I broke the switch down again for inspection and the voltmeter out to test for continuity and voltage. Continuity from the ground post on the battery to where it mounts to the frame was sporadic. Cleaned that up. Checked power to the solenoid...was good. Checked continuity on the L/W from the switch to the solenoid. Good too. Hm. Dug out another button from the parts pile and proceeded to swap again.
On reassembly I noticed the stamped metal wire hold down/ground piece set just a millimeter or two above the switch body section that semi encircles the handlebar (the bottom half of the switch). Off that piece came for a minor adjustment. Laying it up on the vice and a couple of taps on the bent section that comes down to contact the handlebar and then reinstalled. Now that contact piece sets about a millimeter or two below the semicircle, contacting the handlebar before the switch housing. Buttoned everything back up, key on, hit the button and we're back in business.
Was it the button? Probably. Was it the ground? Could be. Is it a tale? Yep.

Nj1639,
Strange. I did the fish scale thing on mine but still Iffy so I disconnected the wire at the solenoid. I'd rather not have the metal in my oil. I could be doing something wrong but I'll re-visit that on the first oil change.
Thu
 
Today!
I had all the basic checks done so I took "Lucky 77" outside for a first start. Had just completed a head and V/C swap to fix an "84" vintage "repair" that was seed ping oil. Timing was just a hair off on #2 but within the range. No leaks but the low beam had burned out while I was working on it. Go figure! The bikes willing, so I'm riding! Fired it up, hit the high beam and off down the road for about 1/4 mile just tooling and, shit! Forgot to put the mirrors on! :banghead: Goes back gets the mirrors, quick leak check and back down the road. This time all goes well. Brake test...Rear brake needs tweaked. reached down and gave it a couple of twist, that's better. Clutch needs tweaked but too much for the perch adjuster. Mental note. ( That will last about 20 seconds) Out on the Hi-way doing a few punch-N-coast for the rings. Finally eased it up to 70, checked the tach and eased back down to 55. 4500 rpm @ 70? Really? Not used to so few mph for so many rpm. Took 5twins suggestion and got a 33T rear sprocket but I want to give this a try for a bit. I did three torque soaks on the head so I'll put a few miles on it before I pull the tank and retorque. Yeah, I can tell something is behind me but not a clue till it gets real close. So, take the wife to work, pick up a head light, put on the case guards and if I'm lucky another trip down memory lane! Hot damn!
Thu
I blew three low beams, each time while gunning the engine. Marlin seems to think the standard beams just can't handle the load, so I bought a halogen beam, this week. He said he had the same problem which never happened, again when he switched to halogen. And, as I mentioned, I got my bike out this week and also forgot to put the mirrors on.:banghead: Not only that, I stopped in a Sunoco for some 93 octane for my '71 and flipped the the petcock handles to "off" from "reserve" while sitting on the bike, instead of "run":banghead: :banghead: , reset the odometer to zero and took off down a busy highway filled with cars and trucks. It started sputtering out and I was juicing it to keep it running in snaking traffic, before it stalled out, luckily by an exit. I coasted off and kicked it a few times before I traced my steps from the fill up. What a rookie mistake...
 
Still working on the homemade air cleaner....

I've learned a lot about what the popular air cleaners are made of. K&N uses 100% cotton gauze. UniFilter's foam filters are made of open cell polyurethane foam. Most OEM filters are made of paper. Oil makes a better air filter than any of them but oil sloshes around too much for motorcycles and oil bath air cleaners are huge. That's why K&N and UniFilter filters both require filter oil.

I remember when I first got my driver's license I bought a '55 Ford pick-up with an oil bath air cleaner and changed the oil in it every 2,000 miles when I changed the toilet paper oil filter it had. My mother's '67 327 Chevy had one of those toilet paper oil filters too. I hated those things.
 
Still working on the homemade air cleaner....

I've learned a lot about what the popular air cleaners are made of. K&N uses 100% cotton gauze. UniFilter's foam filters are made of open cell polyurethane foam. Most OEM filters are made of paper. Oil makes a better air filter than any of them but oil sloshes around too much for motorcycles and oil bath air cleaners are huge. That's why K&N and UniFilter filters both require filter oil.

I remember when I first got my driver's license I bought a '55 Ford pick-up with an oil bath air cleaner and changed the oil in it every 2,000 miles when I changed the toilet paper oil filter it had. My mother's '67 327 Chevy had one of those toilet paper oil filters too. I hated those things.

Yup, I had a 1960 Chevy pickup with a big ol oil bath air cleaner. It was the best!
 
I mentioned about a week ago that the neutral switch on my XS2 was leaking. I got some very helpful links from 2M guiding me to a repair that was pioneered by ( Pamco Pete ) , you can correct me if I’m wrong on that.

Pete stated that the leak is caused by the plastic insert in the center becomes loose over time and allows oil to seep by. And my center was indeed loose, I could easily spin it with my fingers. His fix involved taking a small punch and staking down the switch around the plastic center to tighten it up.
View attachment 152426

Here’s my switch prior to staking it.
View attachment 152425 View attachment 152427 View attachment 152428

It’s nice and snug now. I also carefully pried the sealing washer loose from the case. I had planned on sourcing a new washer, but it still looked to be in good condition. It is a hard fiber and it was soaked with oil. I spray cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner, then coated it with Hylomar and let it dry.
Then I reinstalled the switch. Will it hold? I’ll find out, maybe tomorrow.
This is just another example of what makes this forum so great. I would’ve never thought to do something like that. I would’ve replaced the washer and if it still leaked, bought a new switch. I’m hoping this fixes it.
Bob

A couple of days ago I wrote about attempting a repair on my leaking neutral switch.
I just wanted to post a little follow up. A little 75 mile test ride today with a lot of highway speed. When I got home I took a look at it.
Before it was beginning to really create an oily mess on my cases.
And now?...........winner winner, chicken dinner! No drips no runs no errors. :smoke:
F9CF0D41-9DD3-4966-9391-A3795DCD8CFE.jpeg
 
A couple of days ago I wrote about attempting a repair on my leaking neutral switch.
I just wanted to post a little follow up. A little 75 mile test ride today with a lot of highway speed. When I got home I took a look at it.
Before it was beginning to really create an oily mess on my cases.
And now?...........winner winner, chicken dinner! No drips no runs no errors. :smoke:
View attachment 152556
Going to have to do that to mine. Have been seeing a little bit of oil around mine. Figured it was the gasket. Maybe not.
 
Today,
I checked the valves, re-set the timing chain, checked the points and set the timing. I installed a Slip Stream Spit Fire wind shield and a new set of case guards from back in the day! Then I took a 70 mile spin broken into three legs. The last leg was after dark to check the new head light. It's cross-eyed! The low is right down the road but the high is way high and to the left blinding other drivers. I have to drive on the far right of the road to get it near down the middle! Could it be the fact it's not a motorcycle head light?
Thu

Oh, Oh. I forgot...I ordered me the makings for a blue dot tail light!
 
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Most modern headlights pattern on high beam have a upward slope on the right side to light up road signs and deer on the shoulder. Shine it on a wall from 20-30 ft away and see what the pattern is.
 
Most modern headlights pattern on high beam have a upward slope on the right side to light up road signs and deer on the shoulder. Shine it on a wall from 20-30 ft away and see what the pattern is.
Yep, that's how I set it. low throws a beam straight down the road for a spell and then has a fan. You can see anything directly in front of you ( Like a foot deep pot hole!) and the road side to the right and left on a single lane. But hit the high and it's dark directly in front of you and lit up high and left. I think something is wrong with the bulb.
Thu
 
Could be. I have had good luck with Hella bulbs. Make sure the lens is right side up. This is all assumes a non sealed beam headlight. Make sure it was not meant for Great Britain
 
Could be. I have had good luck with Hella bulbs. Make sure the lens is right side up. This is all assumes a non sealed beam headlight. Make sure it was not meant for Great Britain
This one is a sealed beam Wagner. But I did notice sealed beam front lens are now stuck on with what looks like Yama Bond.
 
A lot of the cheap sealed beams are crap. It's the only light you got. Amazon Cibie or Hella. Or a Silverstar to save $. Here in my part of the world 80 MPH speed limits and every kind of critter it's worth the money for good lights.
 
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