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Newbie xs650 question about clutch pull and finding neutral
- Thread starter vufromlu
- Start date
Picked up my ‘76 today. Wow cannot find
Neutral from first no matter how many times I tried with my foot but can do easily with my hand with motor off! On a secondary note, Dan anyone recommend some nice smallish bullet type indicators made with steel or chrome housing that would look a lot better than the fake carbon fibre one on the bike now?
Neutral from first no matter how many times I tried with my foot but can do easily with my hand with motor off! On a secondary note, Dan anyone recommend some nice smallish bullet type indicators made with steel or chrome housing that would look a lot better than the fake carbon fibre one on the bike now?
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Looks like some nice parts on there (fork brace, braced swingarm, double disc with upgraded calipers and discs). Are those Ohlins shocks? Looks like the carbs were changed too but I can't see what they are.
You might want to check the clutch adjustment setting, particularly down at the worm gear. Most of us run them tighter than the manual calls for. The manual says to turn the adjuster screw in down at the worm until it just contacts the pushrod, then back it out 1/4 turn. Most of us only back it out maybe half that, about 1/8 turn. Then, up at the handlebar adjuster, take out pretty much all the remaining slack. This is done cold. It's a pretty tight setting but it won't remain that way for long once the bike is running. As soon as it starts heating up and the motor cases start expanding, more freeplay will develop in the clutch lever.
You might want to check the clutch adjustment setting, particularly down at the worm gear. Most of us run them tighter than the manual calls for. The manual says to turn the adjuster screw in down at the worm until it just contacts the pushrod, then back it out 1/4 turn. Most of us only back it out maybe half that, about 1/8 turn. Then, up at the handlebar adjuster, take out pretty much all the remaining slack. This is done cold. It's a pretty tight setting but it won't remain that way for long once the bike is running. As soon as it starts heating up and the motor cases start expanding, more freeplay will develop in the clutch lever.
Great tips Gary! Thanks!
Yes, the seller did a lot of work on the bike. Flat arbs with pods and opened up the side panels for more direct air. The rear shock is not an Ohlin but he did out a nice decal there-as I did with my 2009
Duc Sport Classic....vanity decal!
The did not ask about the front damper but I suspect not.
The bike has rebuilt motor, top and bottom end. New suspension all around, calipers and rotors from a 06 R6 and too many other mods
(electronic ignition, yes swingarm bracing, etc) But it needs new paint.
I have to channel my youth and my first bike- a ‘75 CB 550-4
Clutch is heavy and gotta relearn the carb magic!
Yes, the seller did a lot of work on the bike. Flat arbs with pods and opened up the side panels for more direct air. The rear shock is not an Ohlin but he did out a nice decal there-as I did with my 2009
Duc Sport Classic....vanity decal!
The did not ask about the front damper but I suspect not.
The bike has rebuilt motor, top and bottom end. New suspension all around, calipers and rotors from a 06 R6 and too many other mods
(electronic ignition, yes swingarm bracing, etc) But it needs new paint.
I have to channel my youth and my first bike- a ‘75 CB 550-4
Clutch is heavy and gotta relearn the carb magic!
Yeah that bike looks great.
With the linkage it may always be a bit tough to get neutral. Wouldn't hurt to make sure all the pivots and heim joints are well
lubed,
With the linkage it may always be a bit tough to get neutral. Wouldn't hurt to make sure all the pivots and heim joints are well
lubed,
Thanks for channeling my thoughts 5T!
No problem, lol.
I was going to mention that rearset linkage. You might try getting the levers at both ends as close to 90° to the connecting rod as possible. That would probably give the best leverage.
I was going to mention that rearset linkage. You might try getting the levers at both ends as close to 90° to the connecting rod as possible. That would probably give the best leverage.
Even on the prettiest bikes, don't assume anything, do the normal clutch R&R; cable routing and lube, clutch perch pivot wear and lube, a lever that fits the perch. Worm setting and lube.
Search clutch pull here for acres of discussion and how to's. TwoManyXS1Bs is the master of this subject.
I just watched a video...excellent info and yes a thorough expose on the matter.
Brilliant contributions from so many people! Motorcycles do bring people together. Every citizen should have one and learn how to repair them. We would have one big family of citizens looking after eachother. Dare I say world peace too!
Brilliant contributions from so many people! Motorcycles do bring people together. Every citizen should have one and learn how to repair them. We would have one big family of citizens looking after eachother. Dare I say world peace too!
With rearsets and finding nuetral...the best solution I have found to making it easier to find nuetral is to maximize the leverage of shifter. Many of the link sets that come with a rearset kits are pretty short on the actual shift length (sometimes only 1 or 2" long), which means it takes a lot of effort/force to shift the bike when linked to rearsets. I took an old shifter and just cut the toe portion off, then experimented with various lengths by drilling holes in it about every 1/2". No surprise, as you go longer, the shifting becomes much easier/lighter. The lighter, the shift, the easier to subtly feel for nuetral and you're not shooting past it, nor is it locking in place and hurting the top of your foot trying to force it to shift. So far, my happy spot is about 4" of length on the shifter, and then that connects back to the rearset with the various connecting rods, etc. You could go longer, but then the linkage starts to look a little "odd" in my opinion.
The stock shift lever is almost 6" long, and may take 10lbs of force to make a shift while stopped, perhaps more. That 10lbs has to be counteracted at the shiftshaft hole in the sidecover.
Shorten that shift lever arm to 1-1/2", and the required force quadruples, 40lbs, or more. Which, again, must be counteracted at the shiftshaft hole in the sidecover. Now we're getting into significant side-load frictions in that shiftshaft hole. Some folks have gone so far as to put a 9/16" (14mm) needle bearing in that sidecover hole.
Per Brassneck, it's better to lengthen that lever arm.
And, cleanout and grease that hole...
Lube that shift shaft side cover bore with lithium grease doped with WS2, every time I have a side cover off.
I've been greasing the shift shaft and the hole through the cover it passes through for years. Hey, it moves (rotates), right? Not sure how much good it does or how much of an improvement I'm getting, but it certainly isn't hurting anything .....
Lube that shift shaft side cover bore with lithium grease doped with WS2, every time I have a side cover off.
