longevity reports, Spray Max 2K ?

thuban

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How is the Clear High Gloss Spray Max 2K holding up on aluminum fork legs and side cases?
Anyone used it on bare, clean aluminum?
I didn't spray the cases on the Yama but I'm thinking about it for the Honda.

Also, if anyone is interested, I used vinegar to get rid of the rust between the fins on some exhaust joints. I knew it would come back because the chrome was gone. I used a artist brush to brush all of what was rusty areas, like between the fins, with VHT Flame Proof, sp106 Flat Silver. Then I fired them in the oven for 30 minutes each at 200, 400 and then 600 degrees. They turned out very well!
I also tried VTH Caliper Paint, high gloss black, on my master cylinder/ FB perch and clutch perch when I rebuilt them. Real nice, tough finish!
Joints.jpg

Mast.jpg


Thanks
Thu
 
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Master cylinder looks great. When I get around to the front brakes I plan on a 73-76 m/c. Your method make a good looking finish. The round M/C look so much nicer. They are awfully proud of them on Ebay.
 
TJ, that MC is off my CB750.

I did the same thing when I first got my TX650A. Used a Honda master cylinder, don't know what the bore size was but I know that it was from a bike that had twin calipers. Worked good, nice feel compared to the xj that I was riding at the same time.

Scott
 
Sorry TJ. Wasn't at the comp. Been working in the shop all day. Bore size is 14mm. Kit looks identical to the one in the XS.
 
Cool. Another option. I really prefer the early round m/c. No need to hunt a screwdriver to add fluid and no o'ring under the reservoir. Been keeping an eye on ebay for a Yamaha m/c and they seem to be rather pricey. The only downside is the mirror threads.
 
Nice finish on that MC Thuban. Also like the exhaust joints, just enough chrome remaining on the high spots to make them look the part.

I am interested in a good clear coating to go over polished aluminium. I find that in a damp climate the polished aluminium starts to form a fine white powder. I do not want to speed all my fun time repolishing. Also looking for a good silver coating to be applied to an assembled engine. I guess the maximum gauranteed temperature on engine casings is 90 -100 Celsius, some parts definitely get hotter. On the XS on a hot day I have had spit sizzle on both side covers but most days that is not the case.

Any clues on what to use would be helpful - Thank you.
 
Cool. Another option. I really prefer the early round m/c. No need to hunt a screwdriver to add fluid and no o'ring under the reservoir. Been keeping an eye on ebay for a Yamaha m/c and they seem to be rather pricey. The only downside is the mirror threads.
Yep, I been thru the mirror threads already. No fun.
 
As far as I know Texas only requires a left mirror for inspection. And the XJ triple trees don't have as much rubber on the mounts for the handlebars so I not counting on the mirrors to be much help anyway.
 
I am interested in a good clear coating to go over polished aluminium. I find that in a damp climate the polished aluminium starts to form a fine white powder. I do not want to speed all my fun time repolishing. Also looking for a good silver coating to be applied to an assembled engine. I guess the maximum gauranteed temperature on engine casings is 90 -100 Celsius, some parts definitely get hotter. On the XS on a hot day I have had spit sizzle on both side covers but most days that is not the case.

Any clues on what to use would be helpful - Thank you.[/QUOTE]

Paul, I'm with you. Once I get it polished I'd like to protect it. Yamaha and Honda didn't spray the covers for nothing and after 40 years the clear coats have done a good job. My cases would have been a lot worse without the coating. I'm thinking the SprayMax 2K Clear Gloss would be the best to stick to bare aluminum. I think most people here prefer not to coat and just polish from time to time. But like you say, in a damp climate, even when a bike is covered you will still have white aluminum oxide sprouting up here and there. There are some places you just can't reach and will turn dull grey.

For the engine paint, I have had a time trying to find one that comes close to factory and is durable. One will be too bright., one too metal flakey.
Below, I used the VHT high temp flat silver and oven cured it on the Honda oil filter housing. I think it looks good but you can't bake you engine. The other piece is the counter sprocket chain cover. I used Dupli-Color, BTY16027 Lunar Mist, Toyota color. Not bad but has a goldish tint you can't see in the pix.
Since the engine is easy to touch up, I think I'll use VanSickle Tractor Equipment Industrial enamel in aluminum 401-70 for any part I can't bake.
covers.jpg

But yeah, really would like to know the holding power of the clear SprayMax 2k on bare Aluminum?
Thu
 
As far as I know Texas only requires a left mirror for inspection. And the XJ triple trees don't have as much rubber on the mounts for the handlebars so I not counting on the mirrors to be much help anyway.

I may not be able to tell what it is, but I like being able to tell if something is back there. :) Two mirrors, I kinda like things balanced after a girl friend I once had, the right was way bigger than... Yeah, balanced. I got a great deal on a great MC from ebay. Not a thread in the mirror hole. I bet I got 4 before I finally got a good one due to one thing or the other. I now have parts!
 
Apparently Yamaha Clear Top Coat PNT-65000-04-00 works well if you can get hold of it:

http://www.cbxclub.com/davespage/mcy84-3.html

It is claimed to be both tough and clear.

Eastwoods Diamond Clear, not the aerosol can, is also claimed to be good. See Entry 8:

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/6...clearcoat-engine-painting-heat-retention.html

Years ago (1984) I polished my XS1B side covers and valve covers. I sprayed them with a 1K clear varnish in a rattle can. It was ok but did soften abit when hot and got marked in one spot where my boot touched regularly. I would use it again if I could get it. More recently I tried a clear coat from Halfords, UK, and it crazed and came off.

I have seen it stated in places that we need to use a clear etch coating?????
 
i used spray max 2k clear over lacquer on my tank and i spill gas all over it every time a gas up and never a nothin. five or six years old. just don't breathe the stuff -- spray it outside and stand upwind and hold your breath while spraying then walk upwind to take a breath. should really have sleeves and gloves too. it's bad stuff, a little bit surprising it's sold to the public really.
 
Yeah, some paints have the etch function that converts the metal a bit to help the paint take a bite and hold. I've used metal etch or a zinc cromate in the military, to make the paint stick to aluminum and provide corrosion resistance but I don't know about a clear with etch.
 
i used spray max 2k clear over lacquer on my tank and i spill gas all over it every time a gas up and never a nothin. five or six years old. just don't breathe the stuff -- spray it outside and stand upwind and hold your breath while spraying then walk upwind to take a breath. should really have sleeves and gloves too. it's bad stuff, a little bit surprising it's sold to the public really.

xjwmx, Yep, I used it on my tank and it came out very well, for my rattle can abilities. I have flash rust so I ordered some Prep-N-Etch. Hummmm I wonder if Prep-N-Etch rubbed on aluminum would dull it. An etch function usually does. Then again, Prep-N-Etch is made for steel. Might not work on aluminum? Or, it may let the SprayMax take a better bite. I'm gona have to do a little playing!:)
 
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