Bushyboy's build thread

Yeah... they're made from unobtanium... :er:
Actually they're steel, but nobody carries 'em anymore. I repurposed some studs off a Pratt & Whitney PT-6 engine for my starter. Have a read here.
Maybe put up a Wanted Ad? See if someones holding?
Maybe this'll help.... they're M5 screws. I discovered they're damn near identical to a 10-32 screw. Might get lucky and find a 10/32 long enough.
 
Unobtanium of course that precious material comes from mars right? I guess I’ll just get one of the last two on earth and hope a meteor comes to earth with this metal soon.
 
Anyone have any issues or success with the replacement drain crush washer from Mike’s XS they seem to be quite a bit thicker then he old one that was on the bike?
 

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Before and after photos of the cylinder jugs freshly bored and honed. They did such a good job that i don’t think I’m not going to paint it and may get them to bead blast the head.
 

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So in a pinch a year ago to throw my motor and bike back together so the sheriff could verify the condition and bless it legally registered in NC. I used JB weld to hold the hard plastic to the cam chain guide. I was sure the plastic had been grinded away, but very surprised after tearing down the engine today to find it in the same condition I left it a year ago. Almost want to use it instead of the replacement I bought.
 

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Sure you want to use those rubber/metal sealing washers on the 4 outside studs? Most of us ditch those in favor of brass or copper washers. They're soft enough to seal but hard enough to hold the torque. The rubber ones allow the nuts to come loose all the time.

BVWCAkd.jpg
 
@5twins too late now the engine is already mounted. I mean i guess I could always go back and get the copper ones and Re-torque the head later on if I need too.

Like always when I take the bike apart I have an electrical issue. My starter button doesn’t turn the starter motor but straight battery does. I did at least get to check my timing; before the starter wanted to mess with me, and it was spot on the F mark . Have not really started troubleshooting I’m going to do that another day. I got alot done today, but just wish I was riding the bike.
 
Well, after a rebuild, several re-torques of the head are usually required in the first thousand miles or so before the gaskets compress fully and the torque values stabilize. I would give them their first check after a couple heat cycles, even if that doesn't include many miles ridden. It's the heat cycles here we're concerned with. The engine expands then contracts with each one.
 
So I’m pretty sure my safety relay is done. I got ground from my starter button and voltage goes into the red white wire up to the safety relay but doesn’t come out to the starter solenoid. Any aftermarket options to replace this or only oem used parts?
 
Well after I took apart the safety relay I found it was clean and free of corrosion. I then checked the voltage again and realized I had inadvertently left the run switch in the off position. I then found I had voltage going to the starter solenoid. I then went to auto parts store and picked up a starter solenoid, it didn’t fit but I tested it and wired it wrong so my starter button melted. I guess I’ll get a starter solenoid, a starter button, and might as well get a safety relay while I’m at it.
 
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Starter solenoid came in yesterday and today it wasn’t raining. Did a few heat cycles on the newly built 706 cc engine and dialed in the carburetors. Bike runs great and I don’t think that I can ever go back to a 653 cc engine in the XS.
 

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