BS34 1980 XS650 Special Carb Mix-Match?

did you remove float valves from carb bodies replace o-rings?
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This thing right? I picked up rebuilt carbs that were claimed to have new gaskets and o-rings; among other things.
I pulled them out and polished up the insides and looked at the screen and o-ring. They look new to me.
However, the body is a little bang up. Not sure if that matters tho.

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Before polishing inside.

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After.

I'm going to measure and set the float heights on both carbs. The floats are plastic on these (purchased rebuilt) carbs (I think 1981).
On these plastic floats, do I measure the highest peak of the black plastic or the flat part?
 
This thread should confuse the issue even more. In depth discussion of setting foam floats including video.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/bs34-carb-float-setting-plastic-and-brass-floats.49867/page-2
But I use the flat "top" of the stainless tang with carbs upside down on the bench. The floats should be very close to parallel to the carb body. Clear tubing method is "real" way to know your level.
How do your rubber float needle tips look? If there is a significant dent/groove where they contact the edge of the float valve you might want to think about new ones.
 
Thanks @gggGary. The rubber tips look new. I'll be working on these over the next few weeks little by little but hope to get the floats set. I will also try the clear tube method.
 
Happy New Year everyone! I hope 2020 makes our XS dreams come true!

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I had ordered a rebuild kit from cruzinimage for the carbs that came with my bike and thought I'd keep them for future use since I picked up the rebuilt carbs. However, over the holiday I believe to have found the problem with the overflow (flooding) of gas.

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I tried to illustrate it above. If you turn the float valve body while keeping the needle in the same position it wasn't smooth and would get stuck, almost like it was sticky. (or turn the needle while inside the body) I felt that it was possible that the need would stick and as a result stay open.

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Since I had the rebuilt kit, I decided to put it to use and changed the float valve assembly as well as the included jets.

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Measured and adjusted the floats and reinstalled the carb set.
Initial start up was difficult and it was flooding out of both carbs but I placed two towels at the bottom of the air box and kept trying. The bike finally started and after it warmed up, I place the stock filters in and closed the box. I took it around the block and kept it running until hot did not flood. Previously, the right side carb would flood after the bike was hot.

Testing continues...
 
Oh, and I received the oil seals that I ordered and put those in as well. No leaks!

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Removed the old oil seal (left) and installed the new oil seal (right)

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Before and after of the left side. If you recall from my previous post, the right side did not have a gasket or an O-ring. The left side did but as you can see, it was quite bad. Cleaned up best I could. Added new gasket and O-ring to both left and right side as well as new oil seal. I did not use any Yamabond or what ever.

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So far, this is where I'm at.
Testing continues...
 

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