What About A Timing Belt?

Would you like to have a belt in oil timing belt for your XS650?


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ReycleBill

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I've long pondered ways to improve our beloved XS650 but sadly don't have the tools necessary to do these things myself. Thus the reason I post my ideas here.

Timing chains have almost completely disappeared from modern automobiles but still remain common on motorcycles. But could that be about to change? And could it be that someone who reads this forum becomes a pioneer in making that change take place?

A company called Mitsuboshi has developed a timing belt that runs in oil.

From their website: https://www.mitsuboshi.com/english/prime-stars/timing.html

"Benefits of using Timing Belt in Oil


  • While a guide is necessary for a chain drive, it is unnecessary for Timing Belt in Oil. A guide is no longer needed for oil timing drive system, which makes a light weight and low noise engine.
  • Because it has excellent transmission efficiency compared to metal chains, it contributes significantly to improved fuel efficiency and decreases energy loss.
  • Because it can be used in the same way as a metal chain inside the engine block, without greatly changing the engine layout, it is possible to replace with the belt from the chain."
I've long wondered if this could be done. Think about it. You only have to adjust it once in the lifetime of the belt. Your timing stays dead on longer. Less metallic junk in your oil. And if that doesn't have your juices flowing then check this out:

"Now, performance enthusiasts may have some experience with “wet belt” timing systems as an upgrade for the small-block Chevy, but these “new” BIO systems are OEM designs, used for oil pump drives as well as for camshaft timing drives. As a performance upgrade, belt drives have a couple of advantages. Since a timing belt is lighter than a chain, and it can absorb and isolate crankshaft harmonics from the valvetrain, a belt is quieter and doesn’t rob additional power from the engine.

“Fuel efficiency,” “reduced emissions,” “noise, vibration, harshness” (NVH) and “compact design” are all popular catch-phrases in the auto industry, and these also are the driving forces behind belt-in-oil technology. By designing a light, quiet and compact belt drive, manufacturers hope to increase fuel efficiency while reducing emissions and NVH, and package it all into ever-smaller engine designs. Belt-in-oil manufacturers claim that “wet belts” offer up to 30 percent reductions in friction loss as compared to chains or dry belts. This reduces emissions and can increase fuel economy by a little more than 1 percent.

Due to the improved materials used in the BIO drives, these belts are more temperature-resistant, less prone to stretching than conventional dry belts and have a life expectancy of up to 150,000 miles. The first automotive BIO system was introduced in 2008, hidden inside the European-market 1.8L Ford diesel. Volkswagen soon followed with its EA211 and EA288 engine families of three- and four-cylinder gas and diesel variants. Here in the United States, belt-in-oil applications are a bit more limited, in the form of the 1.0L Ford EcoBoost gasoline engine, and (if you like to think outside the box), Honda offers the GC and GCV series of small engines featuring an internal oil-bath timing belt."
https://www.counterman.com/belt-in-oil-timing-drives/

Did you catch that, "a life expectancy of up to 150,000 miles." Did you?

And just think of all the different kinds of old overhead cam motorcycle engines that are out there just waiting for something like this.

Update: Gates, BorgWarner, and Dayco are also making what they call "wet belts".
 
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I'd settle for the Hy-Vo( spelling) chain like in '79 and later KZ 650/750. It too is almost set and forget after break in.
 
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Modern stuff still uses chains. My tiger 800 needed a new chain at 100k miles. My truck has the original chain at 170k. They are both the hyvo type chain.

Even the new ford coyote still uses chains for timing. I had a belt break in the toyota 4age I had in a spitfire. Never had a chain break, just get loose.
 
I guess it goes both ways. BMW cars had timing belts in the 80s, and they were reliable when you stuck to the fairly short replacement intervals of 40 and 60 000 km. Replacement was an easy and straightforward job. Other car brands fell for the temptation to run the water pump from the timing belt as well. Not a good thing, as a pump bearing failure quickly led to a total engine failure. Later, BMW went back to chain, but went for low friction single row chains. Which stretched pretty quickly, and also had to be replaced. Which was a pretty extensive procedure on a dohc, variable cam timing, variable intake valve lift engine. I did this myself, on an N42 engine. Took me 4 full days in my garage, as opposed to 2 hours for a belt change on an M20 engine. Progress? Not completely convinced. But at least I saved around 1700 USD by doing the work myself....
The old Goldwings used timing belts, as did/do all 500, 600, 620, 750, 800, 900, 944, 1000 and 1100 cc two valve Ducati twins. Also reliable as long as you stick to replacement intervals.

As to having a wet timing belt on an XS, I am not convinced......
 
The ducati belts wore out quick on the older 4v dohc ones. Service interval was 12k miles on the 748 I had. Belts were pricey too, $100 each for aftermarket $200 each for ducati genuine. And it took 2.

The 80s toyotas with belts had a 100k mile interval, bigger pulleys put less wear on the belt. Not too bad to do, but not much hanging off the front of the motor either.
 
How about a tension pulley/sprocket instead of the guide?

The early XSs had just that. It has always annoyed me that Yamaha did away with it. It was obviously a cost cutting measure because even if the roller guides were prone to failure a better roller could have been built.

In converting to a wet belt we could probably stick with the same type of guides we have now, though it might be that the plastic part would have to be changed. Again, think about it: "You only have to adjust it once in the lifetime of the belt. Your timing stays dead on longer. Less metallic junk in your oil."

And this: "a life expectancy of up to 150,000 miles."
 
I guess it goes both ways. BMW cars had timing belts in the 80s, and they were reliable when you stuck to the fairly short replacement intervals of 40 and 60 000 km. Replacement was an easy and straightforward job. Other car brands fell for the temptation to run the water pump from the timing belt as well. Not a good thing, as a pump bearing failure quickly led to a total engine failure. Later, BMW went back to chain, but went for low friction single row chains. Which stretched pretty quickly, and also had to be replaced. Which was a pretty extensive procedure on a dohc, variable cam timing, variable intake valve lift engine. I did this myself, on an N42 engine. Took me 4 full days in my garage, as opposed to 2 hours for a belt change on an M20 engine. Progress? Not completely convinced. But at least I saved around 1700 USD by doing the work myself....
The old Goldwings used timing belts, as did/do all 500, 600, 620, 750, 800, 900, 944, 1000 and 1100 cc two valve Ducati twins. Also reliable as long as you stick to replacement intervals.

As to having a wet timing belt on an XS, I am not convinced......

You speak of short replacement intervals of 40 and 60 000 km. Those BMWs must have really got punished hard. I've bought lots of old Toyotas with the original timing belt broken at 250,000 miles (402,000 km) replaced the belt then sold the car to someone who drives it another 100,000 miles. Factory recommended replacement of timing belts on those old Toyotas was 100.000 miles.

Again, think about it: "You only have to adjust it once in the lifetime of the belt. Your timing stays dead on longer. Less metallic junk in your oil."

And this: "a life expectancy of up to 150,000 miles."

Now why would an XS not be a good candidate for a wet belt?
 
The ducati belts wore out quick on the older 4v dohc ones. Service interval was 12k miles on the 748 I had. Belts were pricey too, $100 each for aftermarket $200 each for ducati genuine. And it took 2.

The 80s toyotas with belts had a 100k mile interval, bigger pulleys put less wear on the belt. Not too bad to do, but not much hanging off the front of the motor either.

I've bought lots of old Toyotas with the original timing belt broken at 250,000 miles replaced the belt then sold the car to someone who drives it another 100,000 miles. I'm sure pulley size has something to do with the long life. I always steered clear of the old Nissans as many of them were valve crashers.

Anyone know what the life expectancy of an XS timing chain is?
 
You may already have a solution in mind, Bill, but a belt would need wider pulleys than XS650 sprockets. Is there enough room in the middle of the crank assembly? If memory serves, years ago one of our Australian colleagues (Dave Raynor?) modified an XS650 motor with a dry belt mounted outboard.
 
You may already have a solution in mind, Bill, but a belt would need wider pulleys than XS650 sprockets. Is there enough room in the middle of the crank assembly? If memory serves, years ago one of our Australian colleagues (Dave Raynor?) modified an XS650 motor with a dry belt mounted outboard.

I've seen photos of the Aussie dry belt mod. (Dave Raynor?) I remember he commented about how it reduced maintenance and maintained better timing. It appeared to be great work but in addressing your concern about pulley width: Honestly, I don't yet know but if a wet belt could be installed I think it could be easier done than the dry belt on the outside of the engine.

Plus it would weigh less and wouldn't block access to the left spark plug come tune up time.
 
Modern stuff still uses chains. My tiger 800 needed a new chain at 100k miles. My truck has the original chain at 170k. They are both the hyvo type chain.

Even the new ford coyote still uses chains for timing. I had a belt break in the toyota 4age I had in a spitfire. Never had a chain break, just get loose.

The Hy-Vo chain works like a belt, and runs on what is essentially. a toothed pulley rather than a regular sprocket. But weighs many times more than a belt. This Dayco system looks almost like what we would need: https://www.dayco.com/en/product/timing-belt-in-oil-bio-system/
 
Plus you need to measure pulley diameters. If you can't get small enough on the crank you won't have enough room in the head.

It's all trade offs. I'd rather have a chain on an interference motor. They'll stretch, but they don't snap if you run it too long.
 
Like this?
belt.jpg

o_O :wink2:
 
Kind of on this theme, though I've never seen it tried, is to replace the two front guide threaded collars with longer collars with lock nuts instead of the hex head that seats on the cylinder casting , it would allow the front guide to be "adjusted" inwards a bit to get valve and ignition timing back in spec even with a slightly stretched chain.This could be done without removing or opening the engine. :sneaky: Chain manufacturers spec chain wear limits as 3% elongation from spec. Timing chain "failure" is virtually unheard of in the XS650. AFAIK the biggest enemy to XS timing chains (and trashing the front guide) is ham handed over tightening by backyard "mechanics".
Bill; I actually did some looking cuz I was a bit 'spicous of the belt makers claim of greater efficiency. Chain in an oil bath is hard to beat. Chain and tooth belts are near identical in efficiency.
:twocents: there is no huge gain to be had and the engineering and expense to convert seems unwieldy.
 
Kind of on this theme, though I've never seen it tried, is to replace the two front guide threaded collars with longer collars with lock nuts instead of the hex head that seats on the cylinder casting , it would allow the front guide to be "adjusted" inwards a bit to get valve and ignition timing back in spec even with a slightly stretched chain.This could be done without removing or opening the engine. :sneaky: Chain manufacturers spec chain wear limits as 3% elongation from spec. Timing chain "failure" is virtually unheard of in the XS650. AFAIK the biggest enemy to XS timing chains (and trashing the front guide) is ham handed over tightening by backyard "mechanics".
Bill; I actually did some looking cuz I was a bit 'spicous of the belt makers claim of greater efficiency. Chain in an oil bath is hard to beat. Chain and tooth belts are near identical in efficiency.
:twocents: there is no huge gain to be had and the engineering and expense to convert seems unwieldy.


Thank you gggGary, that's good to know. I suspect due to lower manufacturing cost and lighter weight we'll be seeing more belt in oil in the future, though probably not retrofitted to our older toys. That said, what about converting to a bevel drive timing shaft like the W model Kawasaki except put it in the middle of the engine?
 
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