Sprocket Manufacturers

Front:
- SunStar likely has what you need, no need to do custom for XS motor really. I found XS splined sprocket size I wanted for 530 chain.
Rear:
- Sprocket Specialists - Probably the best known
- Rebel Gears - I used them recently for XS sized sprocket for Harley hub in 530 chain.
 
TwoManyXS1Bs said:
A lil' thread update.

After 46 years and 25k miles, time to retire the old OEM front sprocket. You can see the beginning stages of valley wear, makes the teeth look crooked, as compared to the replacement Sunstar sprocket.
View attachment 93161


This composite pic shows a comparison of a Sunstar sprocket to a new (I believe) PBI sprocket.
View attachment 93162


The PBI sprocket pic is found in YAM277's thread on front sprocket replacement tips & tricks:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/front-drive-sprocket-replaced.44176/

YAM277, can you confirm that was a PBI sprocket?
Click to expand...
Yes, 2M the picture of the bottom sprocket is a "New" PBI Sprocket aquired from 3M (650 Central for newbies) Damn that's a clear close up!
 
Chihuahua.jpeg
gggGary said:
sunstar-vs-pbi-sprocket-jpg.93162

Zat new or showing wear????????????? If new, would like to meet the dog they use to gnaw out those sprockets at the factory...
Click to expand...
Hey Gar, if you're talking about the lower sprocket, it is a new PBI "ChiHauHau Edition.
 
5twins said:
I know one tooth change from stock may not seem like much but it makes a nice difference. You'll drop 3 or 400 RPMs at highway cruising speeds but you won't lose much of the take-off "lunge" in the lower gears. I think the 17-33 combo is the perfect match for this bike's power output. It was the stock gearing used on the Euro models.

This is only about a 50HP bike so I don't see the need for a fancy, expensive o-ring or x-ring chain. I just use a standard chain. My first was a $20 JCWhitney heavy duty chain and I have no complaints. XSJohn used to swear by them. I got about 10 seasons out of it and while it still wasn't stretched out completely, it was starting to kink up in spots. I splurged and changed it out for a D.I.D. standard chain. These are supposed to be one of the best standard chains, very well made with tight tolerances between the parts. You can usually find one for about $40 if you shop around.
Click to expand...

This is great info, thanks. For the standard chain, what do you oil it with right when you install it? And do you oil/lubricate it on a regular basis?
 
Mailman, do you recall the specific chain you purchased, was it clip on master link or rovet,and where you got it?

Thanks.
 
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Plus2 Rebel Gears for custom aluminum sprockets. I've ordered three from them, they ship a quality product lickety split.
 
As far as lube goes, I keep the Scottoiler on mine going. The PO fitted it, and since I had one on a previous bike I'd been convinced of their efficacy.
Something like 30k miles out of a standard chain (not any fancy expensive consctruction) and I'd only adjusted it once, not long before I sold the bike.
At the rate it was wearing I think that chain would have kept on going for nearly 100,000 miles.
 
Grimly said:
As far as lube goes, I keep the Scottoiler on mine going. The PO fitted it, and since I had one on a previous bike I'd been convinced of their efficacy.
Something like 30k miles out of a standard chain (not any fancy expensive consctruction) and I'd only adjusted it once, not long before I sold the bike.
At the rate it was wearing I think that chain would have kept on going for nearly 100,000 miles.
Click to expand...
30 000 miles on a non O-ring chain? I have used a Scottoiler on a Ducati Monster for years, and was happy if a DID 520 O-ring chain lasted 20 000 Km. Maybe the Ducati is a bit harder on chains than an XS, being snatchier at low revs and quite a bit more happy to run at high revs. (A Duc. 600 or 750 has a 9000 rpm redline, a 620 has a 10000 rpm redline, with a 61,5 mm stroke)
 
The pattern of use was mostly (75%) sitting at steady speeds on the motorways, but when in town the bike was using its power and the chain was getting a bit more use, up and down the box much more. Similar results from a few others I know using them at the time. They take the big expense of chains and sprockets away, for a long time in my case.
I also rapidly found that stringy chainsaw oil was a perfect substitute for the ridiculously over-priced 'Special' Scott oil.
 
Are aluminum sprockets sacrificial, like a brass bearing? Change sprockets often and chains seldom?
Or would they still need to be replaced together, like steel on steel?
 
I have found, if chain is serviced well and replaced when needed, sproke s las a ver long while......40k-50k miles! apologize for gaps in spelling as a couple of ke s on compu er malfunc ion!!!
 
ckahleer said:
Are aluminum sprockets sacrificial, like a brass bearing? Change sprockets often and chains seldom?
Or would they still need to be replaced together, like steel on steel?
Click to expand...
As the front sprocket is always steel, the lifetime of the chain stays pretty much the same. Also, the front sprocket is where most of the chain wear happens, as the chain "bends" more around the front sprockets. Due to this tighter bend, minimized chain tension forces, and the polygon effect, a largest possible front sprocket is always best for long chain life.
 
ckahleer said:
Are aluminum sprockets sacrificial, like a brass bearing? Change sprockets often and chains seldom?
Or would they still need to be replaced together, like steel on steel?
Click to expand...
Wouldn't call them sacrificial but yes aluminum will wear faster. I tend to replace parts based on their wear, ie When one is replaced I dimension check the other parts of the set and replace what needs it. Course if you run a stretched chain well past it's due date it WILL eat sprockets. With an aluminum rear I'm thumbnailing two or more rear sprockets to one chain and front sprocket. Checking sprocket wear isn't quite as simple as sharp teeth = replace. But that is a SURE sign.

customer-said-the-clutch-slips-l-43998447.png
 
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