Hi brand new here. Just picked up a near cherry 1983 heritage special with 1700 miles on it for $600. Totally complete. Carbs gunked from sitting. Those little pivot pins (dunno what they're really called) were a bear to get out and now I see they're bent. I have to buy a rebuild kit anyway but don't see any that include them. anybody have any ideas?
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The little pins that the float bowls pivot on?
- Thread starter Hbygodb
- Start date
Straighten them? They are a bit more complex than they seem, the shaft is just a bit bigger up near the head, this creates a press fit into that post, why it seems so hard to start them moving out. You could probably find a number drill thats a good fit and cut the shank off with a dremel cut off wheel. Make it long enough that the float bowl walls keep it from sliding out of a post.
If you can't straighten it, Partzilla still has 'em for about 3 bucks each.
You don't really want kits, most of the internal parts won't work. The float vale is about it and the gaskets. Jets and such not so much. Better to tear down, clean, inspect so you can determine just what you need to buy. If careful on the tear down you can use the gaskets.
www.amckayltd.com/carbguide is your friend. It has all the info you need.
Leo
www.amckayltd.com/carbguide is your friend. It has all the info you need.
Leo
I made one out of a finish nail.
I've used a finish nail too, but not on a XS650. I think it was a 4d (4 penny) finish nail.
Thanks everybody for the wise counsel. I did find a place to buy them. I will be heeding your advice as to aftermarket jets etc. The guts of the carbs look fine ater inspection--I'll just clean and reassemble.
I use a finishing nail to drive the pin out! Lol
Sounds like you were lucky - some members have broken the mount post off getting the pin out.
Been there done that with a brand new VM36. A friend fixed it. He is great with a TIG.
One of the precautions I take to avoid that is to not drive the pins in all the way. They don't need to go in all the way until the head seats, just far enough so the other end is flush with the outside of it's post .....
This makes them much easier to remove. They're not stuck in there nearly as tight.
This makes them much easier to remove. They're not stuck in there nearly as tight.
Great tip 5T! 
Great advice!One of the precautions I take to avoid that is to not drive the pins in all the way. They don't need to go in all the way until the head seats, just far enough so the other end is flush with the outside of it's post .....
This makes them much easier to remove. They're not stuck in there nearly as tight.
FWIW, I use a spring loaded centerpunch to free float pins. Randakks Cycle Shakk used to sell a kinder gentler and more expensive tool for that. Perhaps they still do. The post is easy to break.
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