I stand corrected, cool. Yeah this bike is getting the mags.
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Winter project: upgrading time! (R6 forks and more...)
FLEA
XS650 Guru
fyi.. can get the triple tree conversion to suit and the wheel hub to suit spokes at incognito moto , very $$$$$ but easy fit
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
"made not bought" Suits me fine 
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
I had some trouble with the the length of the R6 steering stem. It didn't look long enough to fit all the parts an put the final nut on top. Legend_10 helped me out, and after some fiddling with all the parts I got it to work.
I installed tapered bearings on the original XS forks, it looked like the races were a perfect match for my new bearings. Later i found out they are higher, eating up the available steering stem length and had to go. To bad there is no fr*&ing room underneath the races to force them out. Thanks to the welder, i got them out and replaced.
The bearings i used are from All Balls racing. p/n 99-3515-5 for anyone that's interested. You need two of them. they are 30x48x12mm.
Here you see the lower bearing race height of the new bearing
With the correct bearings installed in the neck I could measure the thickness of the spacer I needed underneath the lower bearing (5,75mm). Machined the correct spacer and assembled the bearing onto the stem. Made an additional spacer to hammer the bearing on the race to its final position.
just a hair of play. Anything more would take away length at the top of the stem.
In the quest for milimeters, I even turned down both the ring nuts 0,5mm.
The over-length on top should leave me enough room for the new triple clamp. I hope to get started on that this week...hopefully
I installed tapered bearings on the original XS forks, it looked like the races were a perfect match for my new bearings. Later i found out they are higher, eating up the available steering stem length and had to go. To bad there is no fr*&ing room underneath the races to force them out. Thanks to the welder, i got them out and replaced.
The bearings i used are from All Balls racing. p/n 99-3515-5 for anyone that's interested. You need two of them. they are 30x48x12mm.
Here you see the lower bearing race height of the new bearing
With the correct bearings installed in the neck I could measure the thickness of the spacer I needed underneath the lower bearing (5,75mm). Machined the correct spacer and assembled the bearing onto the stem. Made an additional spacer to hammer the bearing on the race to its final position.
just a hair of play. Anything more would take away length at the top of the stem.
In the quest for milimeters, I even turned down both the ring nuts 0,5mm.
The over-length on top should leave me enough room for the new triple clamp. I hope to get started on that this week...hopefully
Is there a gasket between the ring nuts?
The YZF600 uses a rubber washer.
Is the lower triple steel or aluminum?
The YZF600 uses a rubber washer.
Is the lower triple steel or aluminum?
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
Seems to be something accordingto the R6 diagram, o didn't get that part with the forks. Don't see why I would use it, maybe it's there to ensure the crown nuts always align enough to lock them with the tab
My lower triple is a cast alu piece
My lower triple is a cast alu piece
Yes it's there with that tab washer to prevent the second nut and top triple from forcing the first nut down into the bearing, changing the preload you just set. 
LEGEND_10
XS650 Enthusiast
Looking good Bjorn! Looks like you wont have to countersink your top clamp too much 
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
How you like these clocks arcticxs?
I've been doing some back reading because im now thinkering with the front axle. Few options i got about the new set-up. Part of me wants to keep the original speedo and tacho, because they have the original mileage and are proven (sort off, the speedo is bouncing some) and doesn't cost me anything. all the other parts are eating away the budget haha. The downside is the speedo-drive on the axle and that the instrument cluster is quite heavy.
I have seen some alternative clocks.....but damm.... some of them are quite expensive! Then again, dont want to run cheap shit and have it fail after a year.
The R6 axle is 22mm and hollow (nice and light), I think i found bearings to work with the original front wheel. Only the speedodrive cant be modified to fit this. So the alternative is sleeving the original axle to fit the forks. so many options
Meanwhile, I'm making some tooling to help with machining the top yoke. And i decided on the material to use. Most of the made triple clamps are made of 6061, 6082 or some fancy 7075. I could buy some or use leftovers from work. We use a lot of 5083 alloy, im thinking on using that. Seems to be mechanically pretty similar to 6083 and machines nicely. We use is primarily for its high corrosion resistance for rotation moulds. I think i will do fine
Bjorn,
I have only been using the Daytona Velona clocks this last season, May to October. So far so good, I'd say. Not too expensive, polished AS housings. Not too small either, I see some 52 and 48 mm clocks are on the market, but they are just too small to look right, The Daytona clocks weigh around half of the stock setup, but still not super light, If you are more concerned with weight than "period look", I would recommend a Koso tacho with a digital Speedo, All you need in one round instrument, and very light.
I have only been using the Daytona Velona clocks this last season, May to October. So far so good, I'd say. Not too expensive, polished AS housings. Not too small either, I see some 52 and 48 mm clocks are on the market, but they are just too small to look right, The Daytona clocks weigh around half of the stock setup, but still not super light, If you are more concerned with weight than "period look", I would recommend a Koso tacho with a digital Speedo, All you need in one round instrument, and very light.
Tmillburgxstracker
XS650 New Member
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
Like the stance of your bike! What kind of fork is it?
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
Small update:
Got the top yoke printed to check if i dont run into something. Turns out I did! So nice to have the part in you hands to check it. Going through quite a lot iterations on the design. Made some changes to improve machining. trying to figure out how to get all the chamfers and fillets correct
Got the top yoke printed to check if i dont run into something. Turns out I did! So nice to have the part in you hands to check it. Going through quite a lot iterations on the design. Made some changes to improve machining. trying to figure out how to get all the chamfers and fillets correct
You definitely have skills and resources well above what most of us have!
Wow Bjorn that's amazing work.
Could someone please measure the R6 tube axle center to top of the tube? just wondering how much different than the YZF600R forks they are.
Could someone please measure the R6 tube axle center to top of the tube? just wondering how much different than the YZF600R forks they are.
Bjorn
XS650 Addict
Sounds like he is asking about fork length, ,CL of axle to end of tube.
Wow Bjorn that's amazing work.
Could someone please measure the R6 tube axle center to top of the tube? just wondering how much different than the YZF600R forks they are.
I’ll be in the shop tomorrow after work and I’ll take the measurement then Gary if nobody does beforehand.
Wow Bjorn that's amazing work.
Could someone please measure the R6 tube axle center to top of the tube? just wondering how much different than the YZF600R forks they are.
Hi Gary,
From top of stancion to axle centre, I took the measurement to be approximately 750mm.
If your measurement was fully extended 56mm or 2"+, a lot of difference.
