Jake650
XS650 Addict
Thanks gggGary. If ya hear on the news tomorrow that SW Missouri has a black out, you'll know it was my doing... 
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An introduction and question
- Thread starter Jake650
- Start date
Jake650
XS650 Addict
Jim and gggGary.. What a great way to start the day with a real good belly laugh. Thanks
Jake650
XS650 Addict
Got the starter wired up for testing needing only to pick up a cordset. I'll make it over to my son's place this weekend for testing. Forgive the mismatched colors and open connections... 
After all it only needs to spin and stop when I apply the 6 volts.
After all it only needs to spin and stop when I apply the 6 volts. 
You'll need some of this...
Jake650
XS650 Addict
2M, thanks for the grins. I am honored that my skills are associated to those of Lucus. 
Thought I would share how I re-threaded a stripped plug hole in my XS1B project. One of my major concerns was to maintain center alignment between the plug hole and spindle center line. Fortunately there was enough thread left that allowed me to make a simple tool from an old spark plug with a 1/2" shank to chuck up in drill chuck. With the tool installed in the head and chucked up it was simple to get the tilt table in position and every thing locked down.
Not sure how many different kits are available for plug hole repair, but I was very pleased with the quality of this Helicoil kit. I did need to take about 1/10" off the length of the longest insert to get it fully seated in the head.
I did make another tool from an old plug this time keeping the hex head on the plug that let me put more torque when installing the insert. I also made a spacer ring that would ensure the insert would bottom out in the hole and not just sit flush with the heads plug sealing surface. I'm not sure this would be necessary but it seemed like the right thing to do.
Test fit to make sure everything goes good.
As per the instructions to use high temp RTV and some clean up the finished part.
Thought I would share how I re-threaded a stripped plug hole in my XS1B project. One of my major concerns was to maintain center alignment between the plug hole and spindle center line. Fortunately there was enough thread left that allowed me to make a simple tool from an old spark plug with a 1/2" shank to chuck up in drill chuck. With the tool installed in the head and chucked up it was simple to get the tilt table in position and every thing locked down.
Not sure how many different kits are available for plug hole repair, but I was very pleased with the quality of this Helicoil kit. I did need to take about 1/10" off the length of the longest insert to get it fully seated in the head.
I did make another tool from an old plug this time keeping the hex head on the plug that let me put more torque when installing the insert. I also made a spacer ring that would ensure the insert would bottom out in the hole and not just sit flush with the heads plug sealing surface. I'm not sure this would be necessary but it seemed like the right thing to do.
Test fit to make sure everything goes good.
As per the instructions to use high temp RTV and some clean up the finished part.
Well done on the plug thread repair, Jake.
FYI, Paulrxs650 found the plug angle to be 30 degrees from horizontal...
Post #28.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/uk-board-tracker-build-thread.43512/page-2#post-435580
FYI, Paulrxs650 found the plug angle to be 30 degrees from horizontal...
Post #28.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/uk-board-tracker-build-thread.43512/page-2#post-435580
Hi 2Many,
yeah, the Lucas 3 position switch:- off, dim & intermittent. I've heard them all.
The British Aircraft Industry found Lucas electrical equipment worked perfectly but we were prepared to pay top whack for the good stuff.
OTOH the cheap bastards in the British road vehicle industry would ask Lucas:-
How much for a motorcycle electrics package?
50 pounds.
Whatcha got for 12 pound ten shillings?
What I reckon is that Lucas should be praised that their vehicle electrics worked at all.
Yea like any company they only build something to the spec's the customer requests or to the price point the customer demands!
Jake650
XS650 Addict
Well made it over to my son's place yesterday to test my starter set up. No joy.... With the starter spinning when I touched the 6 volt AC from the variac to the cut out relay it popped the breaker. This mixing of AC-DC voltage in a single set up is way beyond my understanding of electrics. 
Thinking the problem might be a shared AC and DC ground I tested the relay only, listening for a click. I disconnected the DC ground and left the AC ground on the cut out relay. Again, no joy. Breaker popped. So while typing this it occurred to me that the last test to make would be to remove the AC ground in the test, using only the hot lead from the variac to the cut out relay. I'll let ya all know how it goes.
Thinking the problem might be a shared AC and DC ground I tested the relay only, listening for a click. I disconnected the DC ground and left the AC ground on the cut out relay. Again, no joy. Breaker popped. So while typing this it occurred to me that the last test to make would be to remove the AC ground in the test, using only the hot lead from the variac to the cut out relay. I'll let ya all know how it goes.
Jake650
XS650 Addict
Well ya all, it's been awhile since I've posted any progress on the build of the XS1B Electric start. Been some progress but still a long ways off from being done. I got the engine parts back from ceramic coating and got it together and back in the frame. Front and rear fenders are all polished up and mounted along with headlight ears and headlight bucket painted. I saw in a post elsewhere in the forum someone had used rattle can spray from 66 Auto Color located in Joplin Missouri, so I made a trip over and picked up a can of Solar Gold and their 2K clear. It's not an exact match as it's a bit darker gold and not as metal flake as original, but is awful close. I've also taken advantage of the ole Harbor Freight powder coating system to do a lot of small parts that were just too rough shape or to accent contrast of mating parts. Fork tubes were in rough shape so I bit the bullet and ordered a new set from Frank's Forks. Very pleased with their quality and service.
Rear fender assembly. (yeah wires dangling everywhere working up the gumption to begin wiring)
I did not even consider BS34 carbs would not work, but after getting them mounted I thought a test fit with the side cover would be in order. No joy. They are just enough longer on the horizontal axis that the side covers would not fit up into position. Oh well it's always good to have an extra set of carbs on hand. I'm planning on running simple pods so I have more room to mount the electrics. Which I've decided to go with later upgraded electronic components.
Couple of special things done are the cam chain adjuster and neutral detent. The original parts would just not shine up and I felt there was enough accent black that it would look like just a big ole black blob of parts so I machined up new from stainless and polished em up.
On a final note I did get the Orange Bike electric start figured out and working. I never did get the test board to work so just plowed ahead and mounted the starter solenoid and safety relay, stuffed in more wires and a starter button. In fact the bike is licensed and on the road.
I'll try to do better on posting updates as I make progress.
Rear fender assembly. (yeah wires dangling everywhere working up the gumption to begin wiring)
I did not even consider BS34 carbs would not work, but after getting them mounted I thought a test fit with the side cover would be in order. No joy. They are just enough longer on the horizontal axis that the side covers would not fit up into position. Oh well it's always good to have an extra set of carbs on hand. I'm planning on running simple pods so I have more room to mount the electrics. Which I've decided to go with later upgraded electronic components.
Couple of special things done are the cam chain adjuster and neutral detent. The original parts would just not shine up and I felt there was enough accent black that it would look like just a big ole black blob of parts so I machined up new from stainless and polished em up.
On a final note I did get the Orange Bike electric start figured out and working. I never did get the test board to work so just plowed ahead and mounted the starter solenoid and safety relay, stuffed in more wires and a starter button. In fact the bike is licensed and on the road.
I'll try to do better on posting updates as I make progress.
Looking good!!
Not sure but it looks like you missing special washer.
#19 can still get it.
Not sure but it looks like you missing special washer.
#19 can still get it.
Jake650
XS650 Addict
GLJ.. Thanks and eyes like a hawk. Good catch and I'll be adding it to the next order.
Good catch and I'll be adding it to the next order.
Your bike is looking very nice. I like the black and polished accents, I’d love to see your total paint job, what little I can see looks impressive. What is the paint treatment on your frame, it’s different, I like it.
Jake650
XS650 Addict
Thanks Mailman. The frame and all the black parts are powder coated. It has a very light texture which really does a nice job of visually blending welds to parent material.
Jake650
XS650 Addict
i do have a question for you carb guys. After I discovered the BS34's would not work I was doing some carb research on the forum and from what I read it seemed unanimous that later model linked BS38's were preferred. The engine I'm using is a stock 447 from a 1981 XS. Question is would it be worth it to seek out a later set and shelve the original XS1B carbs?
I would say yes, but again, you may have fitment issues with the side covers because they angle differently than the original separate carbs. Well, maybe not side cover fitment issues, but they won't align with the stock airbox. But if you're going to use pods, that wouldn't matter. The linked sets are much easier to sync and stay that way longer than the individual cable carbs. Also, the '78-'79 set is more refined with a spring-loaded needle. They run nicer and smoother at idle and through the lower RPMs.
