EFM Autoclutch Installation

StickyFingers

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Anyone on here installed one of these on an XS650 before?

I’ve purchased one and set it all up on the bike but it fouls on the crankcase cover. As best I can tell it’s touching the sight-glass housing and the six centre screws are catching on the thicker casting behind the recessed YAMAHA letters on the cover.

Tried a crankcase cover without a sight glass and removed the six centre screws but it’s still fouling somewhere.

Before I hack into the crankcase cover with a Dremel I was wondering if anyone has some experience fitting one and how they modified the case to fit the clutch?

upload_2020-1-30_18-3-52.jpeg
 
Boy that’s a beautiful piece of engineering! Had to go look it up. Some good videos on YouTube. That things so pretty it needs a custom clear cover! It does run dry doesn’t it? If so, I’d be interested to know how you block off the oil feeds to the right side.
Please keep us updated. :) :popcorn:

edit: my guess is you’re gonna have to extend your side cover to fit.
 
Take a stock side cover and cut sections out of it on each side of the clutch pack, with a strip of case to remain in place, that runs right down the middle of the clutch pack. The removed areas will act as windows to let you see where the clutch parts are hitting the case.
Start with small windows, if the removed material stops the contact, then you will know that is the area of contact.
If needed, keep expanding the size of the windows til goal is achieved.
One way or another the removed material will either tell you what material needs to be removed, or allow you to see the contact / rubbing.
Have you measured the "thickness of the auto setup", right down the mm, and see how that compares to a factory set up....if there are any areas which are more "proud" that should be the point(s) of contact.
You could smear a light coat of red grease on the high points of the clutch pack.
Mount the side cover, including tightening the bolts to spec, then remove the cover again and look for grease that rubbed off on the mating high spots on the inside of the side cover.
 
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Thanks for the input guys, it is certainly a nice piece of engineering. I’ve attached a few photos below of the clutch internals.

I want to try and keep the side cover intact externally so it looks stock. A spacer might work if the oil pump gear can be shimmed?

I’ll coat the inside of the cover with marking blue to find where it’s touching and grind off as much as I dare then use a spacer for the rest.

upload_2020-2-3_21-32-32.jpeg


upload_2020-2-3_21-32-53.jpeg
 
Hard to imagine they'd make a clutch that won't fit.

Maybe double-check your clutch washers.

ClutchWashers01.jpg XS650E-ClutchAssy02.jpg

Ensure that the primary drive gear and the clutch basket's driven gear are in 100% engagement, no side misalignment...
 
Hard to imagine they'd make a clutch that won't fit.

Maybe double-check your clutch washers.

View attachment 159294 View attachment 159295

Ensure that the primary drive gear and the clutch basket's driven gear are in 100% engagement, no side misalignment...

Nah they make it pretty clear that you may have to modify the side cover when you’re ordering.

I researched the washer installation sequence when I was setting it all up. The washers on the primary basket are installed correctly but the drive hub has a few extra shims under it to adjust the engagement of the clutch. I could take the shims out and shave the top of the basket down slightly but will only gain 0.05” and then have no adjustment in the clutch for new friction plates.

I’m going to take it off the bike on the weekend and measure the difference between the original and the Autoclutch. Should give me a rough idea of how many millimeters I need to find.
 
I've found that typical pressure plate travel should be less than 1.5mm (0.060"). Mine is tuned for 1mm (0.040") displacement.


The XS650 clutch will tolerate up to 3mm (0.118") of pressure plate displacement, after which there's the risk of disengagement of the hub and pressure plate splines...
 
Ok so little update. Was hard to work on the bike over the weekend because we had massive storms here in Sydney.

I managed to measure the difference between the pressure plate travel and the Autoclutch, only ended up being 5mm. Which I think can be solved pretty easily with a spacer. I tested this by packing out the case with some washers and taking it out the 5mm. Seems not to touch anywhere in the inside of the cover now.

Next was the oil pump drive, which I think can be spaced out 5mm by extending the keyway on the pump shaft and putting a 5mm spacer behind it. Does require removal of the tachometer drive but I’m not to bothered as I’ll be installing a CDI ignition and I can pick up the rev’s there electronically.

Last issue was the kick starter. It’ll have to be removed, which is ok because the clutch needs to be engaged for the kick starter to work anyway. As the Autoclutch is disengaged until the revs pick up the kick starter will be redundant. E start only.

I’ve found a place that can water jet cut the spacer fairly cheaply but they need to convert the spacer profile to CAD so it can be cut with the machine. They want almost double the price of the spacer just for drafting time.

Just wondering if anyone has a CAD file for the crankcase cover gasket or an accurate drawing with dimensions?
 
I would not use a gasket as a template, they are not very accurately cut. Some toolmaking companys have accurate scanners for scanning parts, you could have a look at that option.
 
Ok so little update. Was hard to work on the bike over the weekend because we had massive storms here in Sydney.

I managed to measure the difference between the pressure plate travel and the Autoclutch, only ended up being 5mm. Which I think can be solved pretty easily with a spacer. I tested this by packing out the case with some washers and taking it out the 5mm. Seems not to touch anywhere in the inside of the cover now.

Next was the oil pump drive, which I think can be spaced out 5mm by extending the keyway on the pump shaft and putting a 5mm spacer behind it. Does require removal of the tachometer drive but I’m not to bothered as I’ll be installing a CDI ignition and I can pick up the rev’s there electronically.

Last issue was the kick starter. It’ll have to be removed, which is ok because the clutch needs to be engaged for the kick starter to work anyway. As the Autoclutch is disengaged until the revs pick up the kick starter will be redundant. E start only.

I’ve found a place that can water jet cut the spacer fairly cheaply but they need to convert the spacer profile to CAD so it can be cut with the machine. They want almost double the price of the spacer just for drafting time.

Just wondering if anyone has a CAD file for the crankcase cover gasket or an accurate drawing with dimensions?
Well dang, not happy about no kick start or tach drive.
 
I would not use a gasket as a template, they are not very accurately cut. Some toolmaking companys have accurate scanners for scanning parts, you could have a look at that option.

If I’m paying for drafting I’ll be sending the cover to use as the template. Not the gasket.

Well dang, not happy about no kick start or tach drive.

It was a surprise to me that the kick start needed the clutch engaged too. There’s no way to manually lock it up either.
 
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