Miss November XS2 tribute

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Hoping it is safe to come out now?
 
Progress continues but today a slight setback.

Re-doing some of the wiring. Takes me ages, probably because I don't really know what I'm doing. Main job is to add in the indicators, but also a bit of tidying up and removing un-needed wires from the handlebar switches. This is how Miss November looks right now:


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The flashers aren't on - that's just reflection of the flash. Compared with what Yamaha fitted, that is a very simplified wiring system. Simple enough that I mostly know where things need to plug in. To further help, have put sticky-paper numbered tabs on the wires and also noted the numbers on my wiring diagram.

But, need to reassure meself I'm doing it right. So, today fetched the key, turned the bike on. And . . .

Nothing. Nada. Zilch.

Had expected at least the green neutral light. Quick check with multimeter, power reaches the ignition switch. But no power leaves the ignition switch.

Conclusion, when I removed the steering lock, must have damaged the ignition switch. Or put it back together wrong?

Sitting here writing about it is really just putting off the moment - gonna have to pull the wires out, remove headlamp shell, indicators, ignition switch, dismantle it and have A Look.
 
Ignition switches sure do live tucked away in there. Having recently disassembled and cleaned a 79 switch which has a steering stem lock, I am trying to remember all the spring tension on that notched plate and such and I just can't think of how that positioning could be incorrect. Can you check the switch connections more ?
-R
 
Raymondo you are right about all the not needed fittings and wiring in the headlight, when i re-done mine i got rid of a load of the connector blocks and used decent bullet connectors and relocated a heck of a lot of the wiring under the tank, i also separated each system so they all have their own rats tail making it easy to take apart and re-connect.
 
Progress continues but today a slight setback.

Re-doing some of the wiring. Takes me ages, probably because I don't really know what I'm doing. Main job is to add in the indicators, but also a bit of tidying up and removing un-needed wires from the handlebar switches. This is how Miss November looks right now:


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The flashers aren't on - that's just reflection of the flash. Compared with what Yamaha fitted, that is a very simplified wiring system. Simple enough that I mostly know where things need to plug in. To further help, have put sticky-paper numbered tabs on the wires and also noted the numbers on my wiring diagram.

But, need to reassure meself I'm doing it right. So, today fetched the key, turned the bike on. And . . .

Nothing. Nada. Zilch.

Had expected at least the green neutral light. Quick check with multimeter, power reaches the ignition switch. But no power leaves the ignition switch.

Conclusion, when I removed the steering lock, must have damaged the ignition switch. Or put it back together wrong?

Sitting here writing about it is really just putting off the moment - gonna have to pull the wires out, remove headlamp shell, indicators, ignition switch, dismantle it and have A Look.

Raymond: first - check that the fuse(s) haven’t blown and then I have to ask, do you have a multimeter? Even an inexpensive (< €20) unit will do what you need and whether it is a digital or analogue model doesn’t matter.

Before ripping out the wiring, you should test for continuity of each wire using the lowest ohm or resistance scale (the ohm symbol looks like a bit like a horseshoe) of each major conductor between the battery and the ignition switch.

Also - check that the main ground (earth) from battery - terminal is clean and secure. Then, I’d suggest checking that your handlebars are grounded as this is a very common problem when wiring isn’t working. On the XS650, this usually is accomplished via a small wire that runs from the bottom of one of the bar riser mounting studs to the frame on the LH side just behind the headlight bucket. If your bars are painted or corroded, the ground will be poor or absent and that will affect the function of much of the bike.

This is simply a check of continuity between the battery minus terminal and the handlebars so to check - just use the lowest ohm scale and touch one lead wire (doesn’t matter which) to the bars and the other lead to the negative terminal of the battery - the resistance reading should be zero or nearly zero.

Then check for power - 12 volts (actually it will be a bit higher - maybe 13-14 volts depending on your battery) in each circuit as you actuate the relevant switch. To test for power - be sure to use an appropriate DC (direct current) voltage range - usually meters have a 0-20 volt range which is about right.

The AC (alternating current) settings are designated by a wave-like symbol like this ~
....and they will not work on a bike or car.

Be methodical and keep the wiring diagram handy and you’ll get there!
Pete
 
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Have just had a fairly easy win!

Dismantled everything and took an exploratory look inside the ignition lock. There's this white plastic wheel at the bottom and I tried seeing if it would fit 'tother way round. Yes it does, and the key now moves to more positions. Used the multimeter again - Yes, Pete, invaluable even for an electroramus like me - and there is now power on the brown wire out of the switch.

On reassembly, changed the two very short hex-head screws for slightly longer Allen screws to hold the lock to the top yoke. Easier to hold them in position with the Allen key than getting in there with a spanner for the hex-heads. And being longer they seem to tighten up a bit more snug.

Key on, Neutral light on!

No photo, because the flash obscures the green light so you'll have to take my word for it.

I had been expecting this setback to eat up a lot more time.
 
Have renamed this thread - Hello from new member a bit threadbare now?

Good progress today - completed re-wiring the bike. Was thinking about how to deal with earth - ground? - in the headlamp area. There are six of these - headlamp, instrument lights, turn signals and so forth. In the end decided to go for the pigs ear - twisted bare ends of six short and one long cable together, flooded it with solder, and sealed up in heat shrink. Now all the earths run together and the long cable runs along the main harness to battery -ve. Might not be the best solution in the long run; we'll see.

Fitted headlamp to the new bucket. It was a faff but much less of a faff than previously.

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It would appear that everything works - a minor miracle.

On a roll, so pressed the starter button. Delighted when the engine roared into life. After about 3 or 4 seconds it stopped but I think the timing is probably well off after all the work that's been done since the last time it ran. So that's my job tomorrow - just left it for now.
 
Raymondo. Nice drawing! Not putting the neutral light on the light circuit makes sense but why not put it on the horn/brake/turn circuit?

Hi Peter, thank you for your interest, you have obviously looked carefully at the wiring diagram! Yes, it would work and make more sense to use the feed inside the headlamp shell that goes to front brake and horn to power the neutral light as well. Don't know why I did it the way I did but must be my misinterpretation of one of the simplified wiring systems Jim pointed out to me back in September - take a look here.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/miss-november-xs2-tribute.55057/page-27#post-610836

Using a simplified diagram with some minimal modifications was a breakthrough for me as all the standard wiring diagrams were too complex for bear of small brain. Does away with flash cancel, lights checker, reserve lighting unit and a number of other unneeded functions and reduces the amount of cable by a lot.

The diagram above has a few errors - two places where correction fluid needed to remove wires I started to draw in the wrong place, plus I think I need to add a yellow cable from alternator to safety relay. It should be there on the bike though.
 
Today, pulled her out of the garage and started the engine. Idea was warm up then strobe check. Started easily on the button with no choke. Sounded good and after about two-three minutes settled down to nice tick-over. After that initial start, used the kicker - feels a bit lively, does that suggest timing is too advanced or too retarded?

Dammit, impatience wins the day. Grabbed helmet, jacket and wallet. Went to the nearest filling station and lobbed some fuel in.

Only about four miles in total, roads still salty, not far enough or the right conditions to assess the new front brake or the adjusted steering-head bearings.

But Gawd that felt good!

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Need to go and rinse the salt off now. Bike still needs a wee bracket to hold new headlamp shell. And no doubt a host of other things.

Forty-two year-old glamour girl wows the crowds?

Well, no but private joy & contentment anyway.
 
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