The ergonomic experiment

Really don't want to step on original intent of this thread but all the "bolt talk" led me here..... Anyone know of a source for black chrome hardware (bolts, nuts, etc.)? Mainly interested in SAE stuff..............
 
Really don't want to step on original intent of this thread but all the "bolt talk" led me here..... Anyone know of a source for black chrome hardware (bolts, nuts, etc.)? Mainly interested in SAE stuff..............
Google is your friend. ;) A quick search for "black chrome hardware" turned up 188 million results. One of the first being the link GLJ put up to the hardware site a few comments back.
 
Why not stick with metric bolts? 3/8" is just 9.5 mm, not 10, so a sloppy fit. At the very least, use 3/8" UNF, in order to maintain as much meat as possible in the thread area. Pretty sure the oem 10 mm is 1.25 pitch, not the standard coarse 1.50 pitch.
 
Why not stick with metric bolts? 3/8" is just 9.5 mm, not 10, so a sloppy fit. At the very least, use 3/8" UNF, in order to maintain as much meat as possible in the thread area. Pretty sure the oem 10 mm is 1.25 pitch, not the standard coarse 1.50 pitch.

I ordered 3/8” bolts because it was more readily available and very close in size.
3/8” = 9.525mm for a difference of .475mm smaller than a 10mm bolt. Or put into inches a 3/8” bolt is .018 thousands of an inch smaller.
With the bolt in place, it can be wiggled a little,
but I think when they are tightened it won’t be a problem, there are also 5 more motor mount bolts holding the motor to the frame.

Edit: If you could find the right size 10mm bolts, that would of course be the better option.
 
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Edit: If you could find the right size 10mm bolts, that would of course be the better option.
... and affordable. For some reason, they seem to want 4 to 5 times as much for a metric bolt that long.
I agree, the 3/8" are close enough in size that it's a non-issue in this application.
 
Just a little note on original exhausts: Recently visited a vintage bike website and it was suggested that a good protection from internal rusting is to ocassionally add a couple of ml of 2-stroke oil to each cylinder. It will smoke badly on startup but will put a nice coating throughout the exhaust. They went further to say that 2-stroke oil is designed not to burn off so is a better choice than engine oil in this application.
 
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This is a very interesting experiment Bob - looking forward to the results.

BTW - my longest ride with that fairing was in Aug. 1978 from Front Royal VA to Richmond Hill ON which was about 750 km (just under 500 miles) only stopping for fuel and to pee. The bike was bone stock except for the fairing, luggage rack and crash bars.

Pete

EFF6F2E7-5456-497B-B8B0-03933BA241EC.png
 
... and affordable. For some reason, they seem to want 4 to 5 times as much for a metric bolt that long.
I agree, the 3/8" are close enough in size that it's a non-issue in this application.

Well I went back to my Cat source and found the longest 10 mm bolts they offer.

They are all 10mmX1.5 threads with Zinc-Dichromate Coating(believe that is the Gold finish you see on some bolts).

"Part numbers first followed by length under head(mm followed by inch conversion) then price each"

These all show as 1040 MPa Min Tensile Strength.

8T4144, 260(10.24), $4.37
295-8888, 270(10.63), $8.02
190-8250, 300(11.81), $8.04

And one strange thing they also list a 286-3219, 300(11.81) for $7.57 that has a Min Tensile Strength of 1170MPa.
Why the somewhat stronger 300 mm bolt is slightly cheaper only Cat could explain that!

In all Cat lists 150 different part numbers for 10 mm X 1.5 thread hex head bolts!
 
This is a very interesting experiment Bob - looking forward to the results.

BTW - my longest ride with that fairing was in Aug. 1978 from Front Royal VA to Richmond Hill ON which was about 750 km (just under 500 miles) only stopping for fuel and to pee. The bike was bone stock except for the fairing, luggage rack and crash bars.

Pete

View attachment 160384

That’s awsome Pete,
You always have been a long distance rider. Those Vetter fairings were such a good design. It’s funny I googled “ touring yamaha XS650” and your image popped up!
 
Well I went back to my Cat source and found the longest 10 mm bolts they offer.

They are all 10mmX1.5 threads with Zinc-Dichromate Coating(believe that is the Gold finish you see on some bolts).

"Part numbers first followed by length under head(mm followed by inch conversion) then price each"

These all show as 1040 MPa Min Tensile Strength.

8T4144, 260(10.24), $4.37
295-8888, 270(10.63), $8.02
190-8250, 300(11.81), $8.04

And one strange thing they also list a 286-3219, 300(11.81) for $7.57 that has a Min Tensile Strength of 1170MPa.
Why the somewhat stronger 300 mm bolt is slightly cheaper only Cat could explain that!

In all Cat lists 150 different part numbers for 10 mm X 1.5 thread hex head bolts!

Thats a good find Ken, only makes sense that a Company like Caterpillar would have big bolts.
 
Not to mention, Bob, Caterpillar is a world-wide supplier, so it only makes sense they would have metric hardware (for everybody else except us!) :umm:
Most of the stuff they have built in the last several years has been metric, but they still do use some older parts that are still in the inch sizes. Makes it interesting working one equipment these days!
 
So.....where did I leave off?

Yesterday, I was just doing some loose trial fitting to see the relationship between the seat, bars and pegs. Today I got after it in earnest. The bars and pegs came back off and I worked on re routing my cables and handlebar wires.
Originally all my wiring was routed over the top of the triple tree, coming out just under the ignition switch,
CAA81E6F-F69E-4C1A-989E-5AE9253320B2.jpeg


So I unbolted the instruments so I could move them around and I pulled my switch gear wires to behind the triple tree and was able to gain the necessary extra length that way.
35C220B3-B07F-44D6-B157-DA78A5A64C41.jpeg


I then reinstalled my handlebars and started putting my controls back on , as well as my new fat squishy foam grips.
6EBDE56E-24E4-4D0F-ADD8-3DB5819279CC.jpeg
D387CFD4-3548-41EF-A81E-9EB33F2EB096.jpeg
9D95443F-DD3B-4C9C-B5F4-10DA4B224D9E.jpeg


The one thing that absolutely has to be replaced is the front brake line, I’ve already ordered a new one , it won’t be here for a week or more.
7F4D9A22-B69D-4E5F-A3DB-E16ADDB8E6D7.jpeg
B9732F09-1100-4906-826E-A2606248A622.jpeg


I decided to go ahead and flip the mounting plates upside down, this dropped my pegs almost 3” lower and put them level with my control pegs, it feels much more comfortable too. I put a coat of grease on the long bolts to help prevent corrosion and cinched them down with all steel lock nuts.
EF819B53-6D21-4040-9A27-800E3EC6FCF7.jpeg


I replaced the crushed exhaust port gaskets with new ones and put the exhaust back on.
536E38A8-9DE3-483D-B743-6E20DAEF4DBB.jpeg
D47E7E74-1B34-4B6B-AB75-1FF46CF8266B.jpeg

3E8AD338-BEC9-4E99-A10D-CDF43A929B07.jpeg


I gave the bike another test sitting and I definitely like the highway pegs in the lower position.
Yesterday my new rear sprocket arrived and the chain is supposed to be here tomorrow, so I’ll be starting all that soon.
EFCA1139-A921-4D47-9F37-41CCEDADAF72.jpeg


Until next time,
Bob
 
A suggestion Bob.... note the angle of the original footpeg hinges? Will the highway ones adjust to that angle? They'll fold up easier that way if heaven forbid they ever need to.
 
A suggestion Bob.... note the angle of the original footpeg hinges? Will the highway ones adjust to that angle? They'll fold up easier that way if heaven forbid they ever need to.

You mean rotate them so , if they had to, they’d go up and back? Yeah they could do that, they can rotate 360 degrees. :thumbsup:
 
So.....where did I leave off?

Yesterday, I was just doing some loose trial fitting to see the relationship between the seat, bars and pegs. Today I got after it in earnest. The bars and pegs came back off and I worked on re routing my cables and handlebar wires.
Originally all my wiring was routed over the top of the triple tree, coming out just under the ignition switch,
View attachment 160436

So I unbolted the instruments so I could move them around and I pulled my switch gear wires to behind the triple tree and was able to gain the necessary extra length that way.
View attachment 160437

I then reinstalled my handlebars and started putting my controls back on , as well as my new fat squishy foam grips.
View attachment 160438 View attachment 160439 View attachment 160440

The one thing that absolutely has to be replaced is the front brake line, I’ve already ordered a new one , it won’t be here for a week or more.
View attachment 160441 View attachment 160450

I decided to go ahead and flip the mounting plates upside down, this dropped my pegs almost 3” lower and put them level with my control pegs, it feels much more comfortable too. I put a coat of grease on the long bolts to help prevent corrosion and cinched them down with all steel lock nuts.
View attachment 160442

I replaced the crushed exhaust port gaskets with new ones and put the exhaust back on.
View attachment 160443 View attachment 160446
View attachment 160448

I gave the bike another test sitting and I definitely like the highway pegs in the lower position.
Yesterday my new rear sprocket arrived and the chain is supposed to be here tomorrow, so I’ll be starting all that soon.
View attachment 160451

Until next time,
Bob
Lookin' good, Bob !!
:popcorn:
 
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