Yes, many will recommend the 15W-40 Diesel oil but you will get more top end clatter using it. I guess it lubes fine, just lets more noise happen. I tried it and went back to the 20W-50 because of that.
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1978 XS650 Engine knocking noise
- Thread starter livetoride21
- Start date
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- Tags
- carburetors engine maintenance
livetoride21
XS650 Member
What oil grade are you using? These engines are noisy compared to modern engines, so you may just have to get used to it. 20W 50 is the best oil to use, as it reduces the ticking somewhat. I would say its better to ride the bike for a while, before jumping into a re-build.
If you want a super smooth and quiet engine, these are the wrong bike for sure.
I'm using 20w50, but just some cheap brand oil at the moment to clean things out. I will switch to 20w50 synthetic yamalube once the bike is on the road.
I have a 1987 XV1100 and it has it's own personality (valve noise, etc) but that's normal for that bike.
Also have a 2009 DL1000, which has it's own noises (clutch chatter etc) but once again that's normal.
Hence why I was wondering what's normal for these bikes, It really doesnt bother me as long as it's more or less normal.
What brand/grade of 20w50 is everyone running?
And I don't plan to jump into a rebuild if not necessary, mainly was planning to do exploratory surgery to make sure the cam guides were in good shape, as well as there being no rod knock.
Right now I'm trying to chase a fueling issue as well. It will idle well, but it will not rev unless on part choke. I sense I still have a clog somewhere in the carb.
NONclow
Confirmed Laquer Breather
I would open up the clutch cover and clean/inspect the oil pump and passageways, and service the sump filter/screen too......
[COUGH] http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-69913.html
Oil? Reasonably cheap 20w-50. Changed every 1-2k miles.
Carb issue? Thorough cleaning of pilot circuits/float bowls, and transfer passages in the main body. Plan on it frequently. Will it be necessary? Hopefully not...
[COUGH] http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-69913.html
Oil? Reasonably cheap 20w-50. Changed every 1-2k miles.
Carb issue? Thorough cleaning of pilot circuits/float bowls, and transfer passages in the main body. Plan on it frequently. Will it be necessary? Hopefully not...
livetoride21
XS650 Member
I would open up the clutch cover and clean/inspect the oil pump and passageways, and service the sump filter/screen too......
[COUGH] http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-69913.html
Oil? Reasonably cheap 20w-50. Changed every 1-2k miles.
Carb issue? Thorough cleaning of pilot circuits/float bowls, and transfer passages in the main body. Plan on it frequently. Will it be necessary? Hopefully not...
I cleaned the pilot circuits/float bowls very thoroughly. that's why I'm at a bit of a loss right now. see my other thread http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=452559#post452559 to see what troubleshooting I've done so far.
Planning on servicing the sump filter/screen as soon as I can get the bike to rev up properly. I will not be riding it with the original filter in place, I have no idea of it's state.
Another big advantage of running bigger gaps on the exhaust valves is a longer valve seated duration which should have a considerable effect on cylinder head temperature and heat dissipation . Rarely a problem here in the UK with our weather but useful in part of the US I should have thought
livetoride21
XS650 Member
So I tore into the engine today to take a look how everything was, and was pleasantly surprised. everything looks pretty clean inside, except for the front chain guide.
It had some parts missing, and when I took it out the plastic delaminated from the metal.
The rear is still solid, but shows some signs of wear.
Do these wear marks merit changing the guide out for a new aftermarket one? Or can I feel comfortable just leaving it?
My thoughts are that if it is still solid , old OEM, is better than NEW aftermarket.
please give me your thoughts everyone
It had some parts missing, and when I took it out the plastic delaminated from the metal.
The rear is still solid, but shows some signs of wear.
Do these wear marks merit changing the guide out for a new aftermarket one? Or can I feel comfortable just leaving it?
My thoughts are that if it is still solid , old OEM, is better than NEW aftermarket.
please give me your thoughts everyone
As you have both out you may as well replace both, it would be the the better option, the de-laminating is normal for the front and could be a source of extra noise, still they are not the quietist engines at the best of times being old tech and air cooled, the build tolerances are not as tight as liquid cooled motor.
livetoride21
XS650 Member
Anyone have experience with the mikesxs replacement quality?
And can I simply remove the barrel that impedes removing the guide from the cam chain?
And can I simply remove the barrel that impedes removing the guide from the cam chain?
I've never replaced a rear tensioner. They pretty much all look like that. I'd use it. According to this, yes you can split it to remove/install .....
http://www.650motorcycles.com/assembly1.html
If your front guide was half unglued, that could have been the noise source. Mine was like that and the bike had a rather loud ticking on initial start-up for the first 20 or 30 seconds. My best guess is the loose rubber strip was slapping against the aluminum base until oil got splashed up and quieted it down.
http://www.650motorcycles.com/assembly1.html
If your front guide was half unglued, that could have been the noise source. Mine was like that and the bike had a rather loud ticking on initial start-up for the first 20 or 30 seconds. My best guess is the loose rubber strip was slapping against the aluminum base until oil got splashed up and quieted it down.
livetoride21
XS650 Member
Thank you for the reply 5twins. That's pretty much what I had deduced from my searching, was that they just about all looked like that. But wanted some second and third opinions to decided what to do.
Got a nice list now of things I need to buy.
Any things to avoid from Mikes XS? or are they generally good quality parts?
Got a nice list now of things I need to buy.
Any things to avoid from Mikes XS? or are they generally good quality parts?
Many of us prefer a genuine front guide. It costs more but the quality is assured. There have been bad reports on the Mike's front guide, rubber too soft and mounting holes poorly threaded. I get my chain from Yamaha too. Same chain as Mikes, only $11 cheaper.
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-94500-02106-00.html
The last one I got was split and came with a master link. If it's not, you can get the master link from Mike's for a little cheaper than Yamaha.
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-94500-02106-00.html
The last one I got was split and came with a master link. If it's not, you can get the master link from Mike's for a little cheaper than Yamaha.
I suggest you post here, your list of things you need to buy.
Mikesxs or the Canadian equivalent, generally sell poor quality parts. I always try to buy Yamaha oem parts if possible, because I've bought many parts from Mikesxs that either didn't fit properly, or were too poor quality to even use.
It couldn't hurt to post crisp/clear close-ups of:
Cam lobes.
Rocker follower pads.
Valve adjuster tips.
Valve stem ends.
Cam lobes.
Rocker follower pads.
Valve adjuster tips.
Valve stem ends.
livetoride21
XS650 Member
I had visually inspected everything when taking the motor apart, and all looked pretty good. no major scarring or burn areas. But I'll try and snap some photos never the less.
Took a look at the cylinder walls today and they show some minor wear, so I think a light honing and some new rings are in order.
Surfrat28
XS650 Enthusiast
Did you ever find the issue and what the noise was? I currently have the same sound and cannot find a dang thing wrong with it.
