Crabby's Build

So I ordered my brake parts as well as new pistons and rings, Valve lapping tool and paste and valve seals.
I'm sticking with my original caliper (because it looks so pretty) I glass bead blasted it and i'm going to seal it with a product I bought called ShineSeal. I plan to leave it unpainted. I will definitely test it fully before riding.
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I also cleaned the cylinder head, I soda blasted the valve ports, then masked it off and abrasive glass blasted the aluminum exterior, then glass bead blasted to finish. I used boiling water to rinse (5 cycles) unfortunately the aluminum changed color again, I'm guessing its the heat? as the brake caliper didn't change when I cleaned it in warm water. I'm going to reblast with bead and try running it through the ultrasonic but with no heat.
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to the touch the valve seats fell smooth but they have a speckled appearance? hopefully when I lap them it will disappear.

The question I have for anyone watching is regarding what I should do with the bottom end. I want to just clean it and build on top of it but it's such a mess. I cleaned with degreaser and a brush and it doesn't look like I did anything. I'm also worried that the main gaskets are leaking. Ideally i'd like to disassemble it and properly clean the cases but I don't know how realistic that is? I think i'm probably pushing my luck as it is?
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but it's such a mess.
That "mess" could be coming from the clutch rod shaft seal, the primary sprocket shaft seal, or both. Probably both. Replacing the seals is almost easier than cleaning up the mess. The back and bottom of the cases should be easier to clean. Then you can move on to the hardware on the bottom, especially the drain plugs. Nothing is ever quick, easy, or cheap. As long as you keep a good supply of elbow grease around, it'll get there. :thumbsup:
 
Watching, cheering and chiming in too.
Firstly, I learned or rather just believed in my younger days that when taking on a unknown mechanical project such as an Austin Mini transmission, or a Honda CR engine/transmission, or a Chev Truck 400 ci V8 or most anything.. It will not go back together wrong. Somewhat a true statement. So yes, you could do the XS bottom end. Especially with the access to this site.
Secondly, your bottom end is mostly oily and grimey on the left and down under so I agree that that mess was likely from that area. You may get away with out going to all the trouble and just finding and fixing the leaks. ?
Of course I do not know of your time frame wanted or your shop amenities.
:twocents:-RT
 
Definitely NOT unrealistic! With your manuals at hand, following the pictures, and following the articles on this forum, it is absolutely doable! I'm not saying it'll be duck soup, but you sound like you have the wherewithal to accomplish this with stellar success. However, whether or not you need to split the cases is a different story. A set of seals and a top end gasket set would go a looooong way to drying up that motor and keeping it that way. There are excellent articles in the "Tech" section (see the bar above) covering both jobs. Break each assembly into the steps required, and you will prove the whole to be greater than the sum of its parts. Cripes! I sound like a fortune cookie! :doh:
 
So do you think it's unrealistic to think that a total novice could completely take apart the bottom end and then actually put it back together?
First, let me state the obvious.... next time, thoroughly clean the motor before disassembly. :rolleyes:
If your only reason for taking the bottom end apart is to clean it, I wouldn't. Like Tebo said, lots of elbow grease will get it clean.
 
However, whether or not you need to split the cases is a different story.
Of course I do not know of your time frame wanted or your shop amenities.

Everyone, thanks so much for all of your help, your kindness and dedication is really appreciated.
And you've answered my questions definitively. Why tear into it if it's unnecessary. My OCD is bubbling to the top, I want the bike to be perfect but I need the bike to be finished so I do have a time frame, as well I've run out of space, all the cleaned parts are covering my basement so I don't really have enough space to do it anyways.
I'm going to attempt to just clean it and fix the the clutch rod shaft seal and the primary sprocket shaft seal. Thanks for that.

We had a bit of a warm up last Saturday so I took a photo of my daughter Bonnie with my rolling chassis. Time to get an engine in it.

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Just trying to remove the clutch plate but the basket spins and I can't get traction on the spring screws. After searching the site it appears an impact driver is the ticket but I just want to confirm this as I'm worried about spinning my connecting rods and having them hitting against the crankcase.

Thanks!
 
It's been awhile since I've been able to work on the bike. Life here is a little crazy as I'm sure it is for all of you (Wherever you all are!?) I hope everyone is staying safe.
Trying to entertain my wife and kids has become a full time endeavor but last week I was able to eek out a little bike time and have started to move forward with cleaning up my engines bottom end.
I started with a trip to the local retailer to pick up some cleaning fluids.
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The Gunk engine degreaser GEL worked really well, it's water soluble so easy to use and did an amazing job of cutting through.

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the bottom of the engine proved to be the most difficult area. Really baked in.


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Once I had the majority of grease off I masked it up and blasted it in my back yard with Abrasive glass. Very messy but it did a good job of removing some of the corrosion.

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Tomorrow I will be setting up in the yard again to give it a 2nd stage blast using Glass Bead. I'm nervous about using blast media as I know some will end up finding it's way inside the engine regardless of how careful I think I am. When searching in the past I found a thread where people discussed cleaning out the bottom end with a solvent, (pouring it in the oil imput and swishing around then draining out and repeating)but I can't remember which solvent they recommended? Acetone? maybe Kerosene? I can't seem to find the post now. Any ideas? Thanks!

I also got a headlight and installed it.

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(My kids won't leave me alone!)
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I'm nervous about using blast media as I know some will end up finding it's way inside the engine regardless of how careful I think I am.
I'd put the jugs and head back on. No pistons or innards, just the outside. Valves will stay closed, plugs in and points and advance covers on (heavily taped on the chrome). It'll keep the beads out and you get to clean up the top end too.
 
I once had the envious task of cleaning a Austin Mini engine, being stingy I acquired a large tub of hand cleaner from work, Fast Orange with micro beads. Applying it liberally to the engine with a large brush and working it well in then leaving for half an hour, when hosed off I was really surprised at the result.
These days my degreaser of choice is Elbowgrease, bought at the cheapo retail outlets, Poundland etc.
This cleaner is marvellous does what it says and, leaves your polished aluminium bright and shiny.
 

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I finished blasting the bottom end and it looks pretty good. It's amazing how good you can make it look after 42 years!

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I also treated the aluminum with a product called Shine Seal which apparently cuts down on oxidation.
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I also started looking at the carburetor. The needle and diaphragm assembly move freely but the butterflies are stuck, I'm assuming this (throttle or choke?) should open them easily.

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Anyone know which Carb this is?

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I put my starter motor to a battery and it seems to run fine. Tomorrow i'm dissembling to clean and inspect it. Then start to rebuild top end.
 
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