Barn Yard find - 73 TX650

Hi cra-z1, a stock air box would be ideal... but judging from the breather style on the head it appears that I've got an early eighties head, so I'm not sure that the head, combined with the angled boots, and 78/79-BS38's carb would line up to a stock 73 air box....

Would love to hear from someone who has gone this route...

As an aside, the angled flat bar link on the 78/79 - BS38's barely clears the early adjuster cap... probably hits when the carbs are flopping around... lol

Anyhow, thanks all for the compliments... its much easier to get motivated to work on something that you know runs as opposed to the opposite.
 
Yes, there would probably be issues matching that later carb set to the early airbox. Adding the metal shrouds to the manifolds should stiffen them up. I've been running pods like that for over 10 years with no adverse effects (carb shaking, manifold splitting). This is with MikesXS replacement manifolds as well.
 
So an update... Next area that I wanted to focus on was the front end, steering, and front brakes...

Disassembling the front end revealed that the steering bearings had not been serviced in a long time, so I'm ordering a tapered bearing set from xs650direct.

The front brakes have also seen better days... I'm not sure this will buff out... :D

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I'm not sure how hard I should try to save these... if they need new pistons then by the time you add up pistons, rebuild kit, and pads it comes out to less than a $20 difference vs new...

As part of the dual brake conversion it appears that non OEM components were not used for the hydraulics. Not sure how available this adapter fitting is... I would like to remove and reuse, but there is no wrench clearance to the housing, and not enough exposed flats to turn the fitting...

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One side appears to be a 7/16-20 thread (-4 AN/JIC) and the other a M10-1 thread with an inverted flare of some kind? It doesn't appear to be a standard inverted flare end.

Here is the flare end on the fitting that I managed to remove.

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Can anyone shed some light as to what type of connection is on the early calipers?

The master cylinder will also need some love... the bore appears to measure 22mm, which makes sense for the dual disk setup.

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However having read various Master Cylinder threads, where the consensus seems to be that smaller bores are better, I'm wondering if I would be better off buying a new 16mm unit... Has anyone tried a 16mm unit with dual early calipers?

Lastly, my controls seem to be in good shape except for the left side which has a broken headlight switch lever.

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Not a big deal... Mikes sells controls brand new, right? LOL, everything except for early left side controls... On the flip side, it seems fairly trivial to dismantle and replace the lever... Before I resort to E-Bay, does anyone have an early left side control with the headlight lever intact? I don't mind if its in rough shape, just need the lever.
 
Finally got around to disassembling the calipers... most have a bit of pitting near the wiper seal (top two mm's)... It doesn't look like the pitting would mate with the main seal...

Would this be considered reusable?

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Noticed you mentioned the broken headlamp on/off switch. The one on my 72 is the same way. After talking to my dad, who bought the 72 new, it turns out the dealers here in Alberta were intentionally turning on the headlamp and breaking off the switch to be compliant with the "headlights on 24hrs" law when it came into effect. I have not decided if I am going to replace the switch as it was done so early in the life of the bike and, at the time, made it compliant with the local laws.
 
Having the headlight come on with the ignition turned on will draw more from the battery using the Electric start.........Don't know about Canada but i have never heard of a country that enforced the headlight on law for bikes and cars produced before the date the law came into effect..........
 
So, it’s been a while… here’s a brief update… I won’t list the excuses as to the slow pace… rest assured they all apply…

The front end needed a lot of work… head bearings, triple trees, all of it needed a lot of attention…

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As part of the front end refurbish I ended up having to 3D print the on/off headlight switch lever…

Details here: http://www.xs650.com/threads/hi-lo-switch.54070/#post-608470

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Similarly, the front brakes needed lots of attention… Besides the usual caliper rebuild, I decided that I didn’t want the flexible/floppy brake line look, and scrapped the PO's flexy hydraulic lines, and decided to use hard lines into a splitter and a SS brake line from the splitter to the MC… I went with Mikes 5/8” MC, and I’m hoping that this MC size will be an improved match for the dual brake setup…

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The center stand was next… like most who end using non-stock exhaust, the center stand ended up interfering with the exhaust. Rather than modifying the rare/expensive/hard to find stock center stand, I ended up modifying a scrap bin 78 special stand, and shortening the width by ~9mm.

Stock vs shortened special stand...

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As a bonus, because of the left side bias on the leg of the "special" stand I did not have to extend the arm… shortening it by 9mm was all that was necessary to make it fit... although I did add the reinforcing gusset for good measure...

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Anyhow... more to come as the to do list never ends… :smoke:
 
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So, with Vancouver in a virtual lock-down and kids activities cancelled due to Covid19 I’ve got no excuses as to not provide an update.

After sorting out he center stand, next up was the shocks… the bike came with Koni shocks, but unfortunately, they were seized. Reaching into the parts bin I salvaged some “78SE” shocks. Since one of the PO’s had already hacked the chain guard to fit wider shocks, I took it to the next step and grafted the rear portion of a “78SE” chain guard to the front of the 73 chain guard giving me a functional chain guard that works with the “special” shocks.

cPYF6gnD9bAtrkm2yC4ZRscAVH72zY3mB7cwtKhxeKsDnZPysOW9QvliShcGfBKelUSr3z-PP2vZF_h_RKEaqYZ0595h_mV8O44RsYz5f7nOvANv5jb0dDeVvyosZFp5bu0JGDJEZy-Jq83rCcvVtXvLMbuMK6YJ9EwS-RAg_hq5rGRSkVPqnbdSNLaJxUDho8RWDgPej1O7zLCKG3GOLO59F2C1rr11T94Ut7EaaSGskw4yucSEE8Ef2SIJiGCPRjEVKDnkTbFQvJDJKO9h5ft7hKggrxaq8-6WtftmpLKK9jSjLUU88pmingJuj9T7TXEcakUsVwLdE8KqtUDbiqrnNMPaylZ19M3BQA6uduY0P6OLxVQFuJfCps8Ro7vjxFjzP-w-73DHauQyfeN8sZdn-EfakzpEAWNwYtZXXBavwvAY8oeV2MsbTWVcE5iV1MOouGj4NvJZbZkkRpqw2Pjoe8CbW0jE6QoF3dIu7UDfCvm3glRRDlIk1V_LiEQFRlT_tJRVwmWmsnYCE9SuhQRYViTIAQmOEd1T7gHl3baRXoRD2tfXDPLd4Hh4rxTsjPrp53pHmCWqrOlQAHwmRbJrNsZHKy5Wz4LJP0nf5FSRzx7W_4_oI4im7NMGxylLFkYoFrtELG7ZQ0ztzm164eLflVUzLa78JlZpox2k1c2DvN-xlIK0WKchcvrqXy47oxX3Vt4WYwDu9TecylfFjs7yWtjEKkHzOVpIGVJDwLZL3hMqHE5aJYQ=w760-h1013-no


Next came the rear fender, it was nothing too involved, other than the fact that it never came with the bike, and took an exceptionally long time to source it and all the rubber bits and brackets that are part of the fender assembly…

I bought a reproduction taillight bracket and was a little disappointed to find out that it will only accept 40mm rear reflectors. The more common 50mm reflectors won’t fit (of which I have several sets of course).

YzWrDVTIS759pKGvYIiSZwxcWbyFOBgbC4-7fIgeI_xqEknF9tMjQt8xodotjbVa8mHP_hCLHM66ajvSFZvmtbNC1Ow4Yi35xQtDb87FqTtQB-N_xDRPxM9ucAEv4tx3-Dq-azL_hiQOp3MpBwGwk1Buyiokfu5IMqepb8JVXyW6wAmUSFayTsfFC4v1MggZOtUEfM7lM4TfVjQufEpH-5Rwc9sH7NEZYyhuFzYJr-5ZtPBKfWYNrvU4TWNmG3d74ccTM4HKHWh7qZnOjh24ngnMo3rHGLrdKXINqHRRou2npXmnEQcphY_VHdfTxecQzZ2c2ZOe3ce2v3nKGxNMbN6IayPTFSRZJCHq-nW_wc68UdAaa040cqo5pMIIFqSGodte7q-WQgXMBfWp-FjBXX6kx_lJyYIdxLC1XDNuyCtdN6tuNIiXdTr139Fn8nyJnhbjcEE-RjLlrTdfKT4wABc4vdj3g7-ur0UxV9Bi09YZHNrQem9rCl_XBbvyYyTXWNqvgKx5ohqkk2Vcm3ZoGlZEu7miFlqCdhy2ZGxPNzKtKVmd18xp-snu1sB0X3--rh8Wqnfb7F-NoThwVQaaktFv-MNwj-FKoUsrs9pw0pULfPqvnUcDKIg7y5jkEWs2rf-T7a3esYgfYb_2H1LwdAsrf5XicOI4_wcif0R6CaFxRG0UNiyFWhR2WcnvG3nh35bM4bHEp_jyWG5EE2tqx4XVYlNPIBrdN7l1DzIIzZhCizjV5xHUV4M=w919-h690-no


As part of the exercise of getting some new K70 tires put on the bike, I quickly realized that the dual front disks were not very service friendly…

http://www.xs650.com/threads/73-tx650-early-dual-calipers-–-front-tire-removal.56792/

While I had the tires off I replaced the sprockets with a 17/36T combo…

I then changed the pilot jets to 32.5 (from 30) which reduced the PJ setting to 2 ¼ turns out… Seems to run fine with minimal tuning as is…

The next gotcha is the carburetor boots/holders… I’m using a 74-79 angled boot with my linked BS 38’s, mostly because I couldn’t find a 71-73 boot, and naively, because I thought it wouldn’t make a difference because I was using UNI pods in place of the non-existent air box…

Well… the side covers won’t fit with the angled boots… and, I’m reluctant to modify the covers…

h7lvv24FKlwe8nt_hx7Vo5hie3aKJ4B7zztloYCjnuiGzJR7kau5NVm1eWE-7VUd1isVGpzA6TCWCy99V0XtsKHkkcEDp6pnKWkO9vUxRS2_A5mEmh8xha68YHRwMkU7d2uerlx8y9g_uLLPirPXdnd5PfrS0FCRGUOBIzBqjw8YgVuXhXrxR634bs1FnozsAYR9EQcn6HozZheA_cQwOuueTofYJf-FcApOtH1wMvXK4VHshy6XWcZQ6aWafNxuVoP1-6Dvr1IzOfVC4HnvwenZnC1sigeJa9CHhuC1yiWXaFD58O8scYlpilPlqJFizrhBphjVyQbwKZQPkyYfczFhANSCQqWmxmm-3bgzmiTC9xiigHRbvlzeJ9odLxSTtpgzZFc2IXWnOIJGPCVmuPYdwDBRNM92gWMcCfGiEmpkE5LP2UNvC7SDjyAlaQY0xIFeOQHq_lE5Dw72dEK2b3OFxYEusLfc8r12mjYBOOpZdLfazxT8MVpUE-Mptcu2KMmiLv7_IPcreVf9SFWFO3kOnFIjw9c0IvayQIdJl8RAqDsUceB7m9JtkLoyliu-mo1Jq58hK3nV-zCQG6jc7iKr_91wI08yPNu72Oi6tnWs6oEqAsA7IKMNmPN5KPMtzjlTTu7FneYhaFRAjkwiWd76E84VNQb7Z5YxGKhw6Fbtc0FYRdEqPYM8oyqpqGrsJ6XYyM5X8_6iqc_Qu193X2KUtDNi_G2AYnh4BDLob5ZkPA-JoanKjx8=w1463-h1097-no


I think the covers will clear if I use the straight carb boots that would have come with the bike, (256-13565-00-00). A more extensive search on here, could have saved me some grief as this has already been documented.

So now waiting on parts to come in, almost ready for part II… Stay safe folks…
Preview of part II... :smoke:
(PS: it’s not as bad as you think)

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Koni shocks can usually be rebuilt, if you can get them apart. It takes a special pin wrench to get the top cap off. The usual reason they seize up is because there is a red fiber top out washer inside and it breaks up. All the bits and fibers then plug up the small oil passageways in the damper unit and the shock won't pump no more. It can be replaced with a plastic washer.
 
Beautiful!

FWIW - the handlebar switches on my ‘76C were totally roached when bought it, so I got a set from XS650 Direct (MikesXS) and they are indistinguishable (IMO) from the originals and work perfectly.
 
Beautiful!

FWIW - the handlebar switches on my ‘76C were totally roached when bought it, so I got a set from XS650 Direct (MikesXS) and they are indistinguishable (IMO) from the originals and work perfectly.

Hi Pete, I wouldn’t doubt that they once offered these, but I couldn’t find any left side switch options that looked the part for me... could be wrong...

Koni shocks can usually be rebuilt, if you can get them apart. It takes a special pin wrench to get the top cap off. The usual reason they seize up is because there is a red fiber top out washer inside and it breaks up. All the bits and fibers then plug up the small oil passageways in the damper unit and the shock won't pump no more. It can be replaced with a plastic washer.

Hi 5Twins, definitely hanging on to them, but I have a slightly larger fish to fry in the short term...:cheers:
 
Hi Bob,

Yeah, my daughter the thrill seeker, absolutely adores it... If it were up to her we would park it in the living room so she could play in it...

Yes those are windshield mounts, which is the only thing missing on it... Thank fully the 560 and its close cousin the 562 are still well supported parts wise... it looks like they might even share the same chassis and frame components...
 
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