“Garage built, shed built”... stable built!

Well Jim, I have tried and tried to spread the tubes with a jack, and do it but once the jack removed the tubes go back.
I'm about 1/4" short of being at stock width....

I’m awaiting Jim’s response with fevered interest Norton7d, I’ve not attempted to open up my swingarm to stock dimensions yet.
 
Well Jim, I have tried and tried to spread the tubes with a jack, and do it but once the jack removed the tubes go back.
I'm about 1/4" short of being at stock width....
You have to go beyond the yield point. You're still at the elastic stage.
From Wikipedia: Yield strength or yield stress is the material property defined as the stress at which a material begins to deform plastically whereas yield point is the point where nonlinear (elastic + plastic) deformation begins. Prior to the yield point, the material will deform elastically and will return to its original shape when the applied stress is removed. Once the yield point is passed, some fraction of the deformation will be permanent and non-reversible.

Use a ruler against the two axle plates. You're a quarter inch short right now... so pump the jack out 'till you're spread about a half an inch. Release the pressure and see if you gained any on it. If it goes back to the same 1/4", pump it back out to about 5/8". Release and see if you got any movement. Just keep adding an eight of an inch at a time 'till you get some movement. Once it starts to bend out, keep adding 1/16 to 1/8" at a time 'till it comes out to where you want it. If you go too far, use some half inch allthread to pull it back in. Try that and let us know?

Edit: Some might suggest using a "blue wrench" (torch) to heat it and make it easier. Unless you're practiced at that, I wouldn't recommend it. Poor heat control could cause some vertical deformation and then your tires cocked to one side. :banghead: Just stick with the brute force method.
 
Ok will do, thanks for the level of detailed response
I have already went 1/4 past original spec, without positibe results.
I will do the, rinse and repeat method, expanimg a little each time.
Looking back, i should have just been content with the ugly original swinger!
 
Ok will do, thanks for the level of detailed response
I have already went 1/4 past original spec, without positibe results.
I will do the, rinse and repeat method, expanimg a little each time.
Looking back, i should have just been content with the ugly original swinger!

Ha ha ha!!! Never admit this Norton, we should always strive for perfection!

Anyway, it’s just another little challenge to overcome.
 
I got the right fork leg’s clear coat stripped after work tonight, I would of liked to of done the left too but it took longer then I anticipated and I had a vote to cast tonight!

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I have a couple small patches of ‘pitting’, you can just make out one of them in the first photo. How best should I attack these areas, should I use emery cloth before I start the arduous process of wet sanding?
 
I began the early stages of wet sanding yesterday and I’m pleased to say the pitting appears to be dissipating.

I have a question that’s not completely unrelated, I’d like to remove some anodising so I can polish some other parts I have. Now I’ve read a fair bit about how over cleaner can remove anodising but that will also dissolve aluminium fairly rapidly.

Does anybody have any experience of this? Or should I forget the diy approach here and have a professional do it?
 
Well an update for you guys (with photos!) that doesn’t involve polishing.

Had a slight change in heart of direction in regards to aesthetics of my build.

This arrived today!

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My plan is a removable cowl so I can take my better half out for rides with me on warm days but also have the bike look ‘racey’ all fast and sleek for solo rides.

I can’t claim credit for the idea, that’s on my friend who’s helping out with fabrication, but we’re using the rear section of my ‘80 special tank.

I’ve cut out the super rough shape so I can have it sandblasted and then it’s into his skilled hands to make it fit and look oh so pretty.

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Dropped some parts off with a vapour blasting guy a friend put me onto.

Initially I only wanted the head done so I could begin to attempt porting works, on his suggestion I decided to throw in a bunch more to be done too.

He’s just sent me a photo after completion and I was too excited not to share with all you wonderful people!

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Finally got one of my 5EB R6 lowers wet-sanded all the way up to 2500 tonight, it’s taken me way too long but I’m happy with the results.
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I feel like I’m going to have to wait a while if I order any polishing supplies so tomorrow nights task is to strip the paint of it’s partner.
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Daniel, those fork legs look fabulous - how you going to keep 'em looking like that? Are you going to put any kind of coating? Cheers, Raymond
 
Daniel, those fork legs look fabulous - how you going to keep 'em looking like that? Are you going to put any kind of coating? Cheers, Raymond

Thank you Raymondo! It’s been incredibly time consuming and a real labour of love!

The leg in the most recent post still needs to be sanded through to 2500 and then I’ll disassemble the forks and begin the polishing process, this will go some way to ‘sealing’ the forks. From there it’ll just be regular cleaning & wax to protect them.

I have been thinking about clear anodising but I think I can keep the fork lowers clean and waxed fairly easily.

Daniel.
 
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