Crankshaft wobble - freshly rebuilt engine

OK so great question, in reviewing this: https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/01/14/xs650-oil-circuit/

it looks like the oil pump is fed directly via the sump, is that accurate? When I drained the oil and checked the sump I found one of the sump filter bolts was loose, potentially providing a gap between the sump filter and oil passage. Would this explain how the material got past the sump filter and into the second? ***I may have been afraid of breaking the bolt and did not torque adequately first time***

I had disassembled the oil pump and cleaned it before reassembly and all looked ok other than some indents from the metal that had passed through the engine the first time it failed.

Thx again guys.
 
it looks like the oil pump is fed directly via the sump, is that accurate? When I drained the oil and checked the sump I found one of the sump filter bolts was loose, potentially providing a gap between the sump filter and oil passage. Would this explain how the material got past the sump filter and into the second?
Yes... accurate.
The gap would need to be right at the inlet hole location and one would think there would be evidence of debris at the gap.
 
Ah I did not think to check at the gap when disassembling it, but it was one of the two bolts at the inlet hole that was loose, creating the potential for a gap.

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Current plan is to reassemble, fresh oil, ensure sump filter properly torqued down, run for 15 minutes or so and pull apart again to inspect. My awesome mechanic brother in law suggested removing the clutch basket prior to reassembling to see if its clutch material or at least rule that out. My gut says it might be cam chain tensioner rubber/plastic from the over tightened type D tensioner.

Anyone have concerns with me using blue loctite the damper thread farthest from the motor? I cant imagine it would make its way into the oil if I turn off the engine overnight after setting the tensioner?
 
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Long distance OPINION
I'm thinking a previous sump filter was torn, if you didn't remove pump, clean passages, the pump ground up rubber that was already past the previous sump filter. One loose sump filter bolt wouldn't let very much by.
There's several rubber pieces can get chewed but like you think, a front guide is high on the list. If the guide rubber falls free, aluminum sparkle in the oil will be obvious.
 
I know I previously said run it, but ferrous metal in the filter would have me pullin' the sidecover to see if the oil pump suffered any damage.

Side cover was good off to adjust starter bendix tension anyway while the oil was drained. Will disassemble the oil pump tonight and let you know what I find. I will say it did get a bit beat up from the metal that passed through the engine the first time and killed the crank bearings.

Take care everyone, talk to you soon.
 
Hey guys not sure if this helps but the oil pump doesn’t look too bad. There are some indentations from the larger metal pieces that went through the oil previously but functionally I imagine the pump is fine.

While the side cover was off I measured the clutch pressure plate travel and it was about 0.033” which I know is way to short compared to the 0.061” value I’ve read others have on a stock setup. I really hope the short pressure plate movement explains the material in the oil and will work to fix this before putting oil in it again and running it. Would it make sense that the clutch shavings are magnetic?

I’m fairly new to this and motorcycles in general so if the above is way off base feel free to set me straight. Not gonna let pride get in the way of learning and hopefully riding again soon. Thx everyone.

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Not sure about shipping, but I just checked on Ebay and you can pick up the whole pump for 15-25 bucks. there's lots of 'em to pick from.
I think I'd get one. the outer housing bearing surface is pretty scored, as well as the drive side of the inner gear.
 
Hey everyone it’s been a few days. I changed the oil, cleaned the upper oil filter, and went for one more 30 minute ride and checked the filter again. The filter is much cleaner than before but still had some more metal in it. Can’t tell it’s new material or just remnants from before.

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Based on this I decided to pull the engine just to be safe. So far I have the top end taken apart but have not found anything obvious yet. Any recommendations on what I might be looking for?

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I hope I don’t have to split the bottom end again :( but at this point I haven’t really found anything that would explain the material in the oil.
 
Thanks John I will replace the oil pump and likely tear down the bottom end and flush/inspect.

Does anyone have experience with the Mikes Xs (or xs650direct.com in Canada) oil pump parts?

Or should I go used and something like this?

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my $.02, that one looks scored and worn AF.
Remember, both pieces spin. I don't think I'd use a brake rotor that looked like that let alone precious parts delivering life giving oil.
 
Lol thx Steve I guess it didn’t look too bad to me because my current one is worse.

I’m always hesitant to orders Mikes/xs650direct equipment as it can be inconsistent at best.

I’ll keep looking for other options on eBay.
 
I am with you Canadiansteve about xs 650 direct. You could do a search to see if anyone had any luck with it but like some things they sell, I would rather buy good used than crap new. JC
 
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