Yam_Tech314's official build thread

Alright. I guess why wait, right?

Did some degreasing. As you probably could've guessed...

Not anywhere near the quality of vaporblasting, but I decided that as my first build, I probably won't want to ride it as much if I'm scared of messing up the pretty motor. It's plenty nice looking all cleaned up, and if I spent the $350 on vaporblasting I'd be out that money, and afraid to take it out.

Now I can move forward, happily. I'm one step closer to rebuilding. I'll be ordering seals, gaskets, and other parts soon, as well as tires. I'll be measuring and writing down the width of the shifter forks and clutch plates, as well as the rocker arm width, and replacing anything that falls out of spec.

This thing is gonna see the street before the summer ends. I'm tired of screwin' off. I got nothing but time now.

Here's the fore and aft. Enjoy my spontaneous motivation.
 

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It's just surface rust. Light oil on a rag will clean it off.
How 'bout the little bit of metal in that hole? Should I try and put needle noses in there and remove it? Or should I maybe try and make it ride the edge of the hole? Isn't that just an alignment hole for the crank?
 
How 'bout the little bit of metal in that hole? Should I try and put needle noses in there and remove it? Or should I maybe try and make it ride the edge of the hole? Isn't that just an alignment hole for the crank?
The front hole is for bearing oil and the dowel pin is for bearing alignment. Not sure what the aft hole is for, but I'd get the piece of metal out of it just 'cause I'm ocd when it comes to engines.:er:
 
Found a little something when I was removing the old Yamabond from the mating surface.

A long time ago in the start of this thread, I brought up my concern about the leaky pushrod seal. I'm not sure who all remembers that, but it's looking like it was actually cracked rather than a bad seal. What should I do to remedy this issue? Perhaps I can in weld it, and just deal with it? I'd hate to risk breaking a bigger chunk off the case. I've already come so far. What should I do?
 

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Sure. It's cracked on both cases .. here's bottom half
15864047128976858530581760678849.jpg



And here's top half. From far away so you can see where it's located. Chain must've came off in past life and wrecked it good.
1586404785351987046828291364286.jpg


Here's a little closer pic now that I posted one from afar
15864048602524307789131445211884.jpg


The groove is cracked inwards, which will interfere with the new seals lip. It will also more than likely let oil through the crack from around the seal.
 

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I am not happy to say "I was right!" About this one...


I can't tell you what page of my thread goes over this issue when the bike was still together over a year ago, but here's a picture of the concern

20190407_225359.jpg
 
Going by your pics... looks to me like you can clean both halves up and make 'em usable. Gently tap on the loose bits and see if you can break 'em off, clean up the edges with a file. Looks like there's plenty of metal left for a good seal.
 
So with everything cleaned up and ready for rebuild, I noticed there's some sand particles and scotchbrite debris in nooks and crannies of the bottom end, what's a good way to really flush out a bottom and to ensure there are no particles in there that could bind up or wear out moving parts? Would a good hose down with water do the trick? Would I need to soak in kerosene? Just looking for tips to get her all totally cleaned out and prepped for YAMABOND #4, all new gaskets and seals, and the moving bits.
 
Best place to get seal kit, gasket kit, and cam chain stuff? (tensioner, guide, and chain itself) been trying to make a list of all I need to rebuild bottom end. I think the seals, gaskets, and some yamabond with all new cam chain stuff will just about do it. Anything I'm missing here?
 
So with everything cleaned up and ready for rebuild, I noticed there's some sand particles and scotchbrite debris in nooks and crannies of the bottom end, what's a good way to really flush out a bottom and to ensure there are no particles in there that could bind up or wear out moving parts? Would a good hose down with water do the trick? Would I need to soak in kerosene? Just looking for tips to get her all totally cleaned out and prepped for YAMABOND #4, all new gaskets and seals, and the moving bits.
Compressed air, wash with water and detergent, dry with compressed air, brake cleaner and repeat until you don't get anything else and rinse and blow out again.
 
Doing a little tinkering today.

Been an odd one for sure. Decided to wire wheel a bunch of hardware for putting the brake cylinder, and battery box back on.

I guess the new plan is going to be designing a stand for my bench grinder. It vibrates so much... It actually vibrated my XS stock exhaust off my top shelf, right onto my head, and chipped up the fresh paint on my frame... After a near life taking concussion at the age of 8, and being home alone it really scared me. So that's going to change locations ASAP. In the last picture you can see where the pipes were sitting. On top of the red and gray toolboxes. And the bench grinder being conveniently under them... Oof. I'm alright. Little bump on my head and a slight headache, but I'm alive, not bleeding, and fitment for the rear cylinder and brake pedal pivot are damn near perfect. Almost no clearance to the swingarm but from my ability to move it by hand it looks like it clears.

Is there any problem with remounting all of my electrical components before a new wiring harness comes in? And before the motor is in? I almost feel like it's easiest to do without a motor in the way.

I will take any and all suggestions to reassembly order, as I'm not ready for a motor rebuild just yet, but very close to it. I wanna continue making progress where I can, so I thought cleaning individual components and mounting them may be a good way to do that. I'm thinking anything on the battery box can go in permanently, because it's not in the way of the motor. I also believe I can mount the starter solenoid back on, and a few other pieces... What's the word? I definitely need some help here lol...

What a day...

Be safe everyone!
 

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It actually vibrated my XS stock exhaust off my top shelf, right onto my head, and chipped up the fresh paint on my frame...

Is there any problem with remounting all of my electrical components before a new wiring harness comes in? And before the motor is in? I almost feel like it's easiest to do without a motor in the way.

Be safe everyone!

Ouch! At least no serious injury.

Well, I can't see any problem with mounting the electrical components before putting the engine in. There's bound to be a best or ideal order of work when rebuilding a bike from the frame up but I've done a few and I don't know that perfect plan yet. Obviously, it pays to think ahead and it's clear you are doing that.

It's slightly annoying if you have to undo work because you didn't think of something. But that's how you learn. And taking off a newly-fitted component from a clean bike takes far less time that removing an old & seized part from a rusty bike.

Obvious points, when you're ready to lob the engine. Wrap old rags around the frame between the mounting points, secure with masking tape. One wrinkle I discovered when recently swapped engines on Miss November was I dropped the engine in (block & chain and an assistant), fitted the lower central engine bolt only, then leaned the engine forward and fitted the carbs. Chain was still holding most of the weight. It's such a tight fit to get the carbs in, previously I've had to remove one inlet rubber temporarily to get them in.

Then fit the remaining engine bolts. Make sure you have the front mount in place between the frame tubes before you tighten any engine bolts - the frame gets slightly squeezed.

Fit the engine with the l/h cover still off, then fit the sprocket and chain, use the back wheel to hold things while you tighten the sprocket nut. Then fit the clutch cable prior to mounting the cover. Carefully consider routing for clutch and throttle cables - there are diagrams in your manual and on this forum, but the principle is obviously to choose an easy route that avoids kinks and binding. (I'm sure those are available on a different sort of website.) Exhausts, gear lever, rear brake pedal, kick lever, footrests. By now it looks like a motorbike.

You'll be alright.
 
looking to buy a good bit of parts today for the bottom end rebuild of the motor... I am finding that my options are limited. Mikes XS has been said to be less than exceptional from what Ive heard on here. I am specifically trying to just make progress where I can. this is my list so far...

everything with an X beside it has been found on Mikes XS. I dont necessarily need to get it all from one site, especially if finding it elsewhere will ensure quality/lower total cost.

they do not have a rear chain guide for the cam chain, and I cant find anywhere that does. I found a few miscellaneous parts on Mikes that I feel are hard to mess up, such as a battery band to hold the battery in place, and circlips for piston pins. please, anyone that has done extensive research on best prices and quality on parts, chime in. im really in need of some help here.

I know that there are some items on my list that Mikes has, I didnt put an x beside them because I didnt yet put them in my cart. I see that as a waste of time if I can get recommendations for parts elsewhere.

Bottom end list of parts needed for rebuild.

Cam chain x

Cam chain guide front x

Cam chain tensioner guide rear (nylon arm not the spring tensioner bolt)

Gasket kit x

Seal kit x

Yamabond #4

Outer clutch basket with good dampening springs.

Top end rebuild list of parts.

Piston rings

Valve seals

Rocker arm shafts

New brushes for alternator

New points, condensers, and plugs

Tools needed for build

Valve spring compressor

Torque wrench rated for up to 150ft/lb

Valve lapping tool and compound

Brake bleeding tools such as mighty vac or something to help with bleeding brakes so I don’t have to do it manually.

Masking tape, packaging tape, clear coat in a can,

Compression tester kit,

Carb sync kit.

Parts needed for braking system

38x41mm caliper piston

Compression fittings for ends of brake lines

New banjo fittings for front and back brakes

Proper brake fluid

Brake pads for both front and rear.

Possibly a new brake pedal for rear brake

Electrical and wiring components needed for build

wiring harness

new low profile signals of some kind

possibly new switches for instruments

new button for starter button. x
 
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