Cleaning spark plugs....

How do you clean spark plugs?

  • Wire brush?

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MaxPete

Lucille, Betty, Demi, Gretel & Big Sue money pits.
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Howdy!

I hesitate to bring this up because it’s sort of like an oil or chain lube thread, the debate about hard-tailing old bikes, one’s favourite choice of cable news network (ie. the bullish!t & lying network or the whale-kissing, treehugger, white-wine liberal whiners - but way more factual... network) or the politics of facemasks. These topics don’t always ....shall we just say that sometimes they don’t bring out the very best in people (including your faithful scribbler :rolleyes:).

Anyhow, I need to change the plugs in Lucille (‘76 Standard) and given the difficulties around shopping these days and my natural cheap-b@stardness, I wondered if I could simply clean the existing plugs - which actually still seem to function great after some minor difficulties getting the bike to start.

My auto shop teachers, Mr. Pete Davis, Mr. Dave Rankin and Mr. Ollie Kokinen back at good ‘ole Bayview Secondary School in the early ‘70s used to have spirited debates about the various spark plug cleaning methods:
  • Abrasive “sand blasting”
  • Wire brushing
...or chucking them in the can and buying new plugs.

I was surfing around YouTube the other day and noted another way to clean spark plugs from Alan Millyard who builds incredible multi-cylinder motorcycles like a V12 Kawasaki and 5-cylinder (!! :yikes:) Kawi two-stroke. His bikes are absolutely remarkable and they all run and look like factory machines in every way. If you have never seen his channel - check it out - mind blowing (see below).

Anyhow - Alan recommends simply burning the gunk off spark plugs with a MAP gas torch which is much hotter than propane. He just plops them into his BBQ and goes at them with a hand-held MAP torch.
This involves no abrasives or wire wheels which can leave debris behind as found by Briggs and Stratton in a recent service bulletin (and confidently predicted by Davis and Kokinen back in the day). I gather Mr. Millyard is not short of money and he sure has a lot to risk on his museum-piece machines by cleaning plugs rather than replacing them - but he says that he has always used this MAP gas technique and never had an issue.

So, what is the collective wisdom on the subject of spark plug cleaning?

Pete
 
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I've always glass beaded mine,then used mineral spirits to flush out remaining glass beads and then used a propane torch to dry out plug. But after
seeing this I'll use mapp gas to clean my plugs.
 
I've done something similar, which is to shoot fouled plugs with solvent and burn them clean with a propane torch, repeating as needed. That probably takes longer than MAP gas, but it works.
 
I do occasionally clean some. Multiple cold starts using the choke without sufficient road run time in between can blacken the plugs to the point of fouling or partial fouling. I just spray them with electrical contact cleaner and scrub them with an old toothbrush. I sometimes wire wheel the carbon off the outside as well. Obviously, the wire wheeling doesn't get down inside very far.

All that being said, let me add that I feel this old engine design is tough on plugs, wearing them out rather quickly. I usually can detect some wear and end up changing them out by about every 3K to 4K miles. So, how do I determine if there's wear? By comparing the old plug to a new spare I have on the shelf. What happens is the center electrode slowly wears shorter. Looking at the used plug by itself, you really can't see this, but side by side with a new one makes it pretty easy to detect. So, new spare plugs on the shelf are not only replacement parts, they're a useful "tool".
 
I don't know, maybe I'm an idiot, but I blast and re-use my plugs, and pretty much never replace them. Media getting into the cylinder does concern me, so after blasting I hit them with compressed air, then I shoot them with a spray of brake cleaner, and then the compressed air again. I've been doing this since forever.
I don't have MAP gas.
 
I can't believe you've never worn a plug out to the point that it didn't perform as well as it should anymore. That's what clued me into the need to replace them regularly. Years ago on one of my old BMWs, I was returning from a rally and the bike just didn't seem to be performing as well as it should running down the highway. It was running OK but the power seemed to be a little off. When I got home I checked the plugs of course. They looked perfect, very clean and good color, just like they always did. Then I checked my maintenance log and saw that those plugs had been in there nearly 10K miles. I compared one to a new one I had on the shelf, and I could easily see how much shorter the center electrode was on the old plug. So, new plugs installed and the bike was "fixed", full power and performance restored. And that's why I routinely check the wear on my plugs now. It's a cheap and easy "fix" if needed, a "poor man's tune-up", so to speak.
 
Of course we clean our spark plugs. And do with brushes, (brass) cleaning chemicals, (carb cleaner) and such..
The thing that I pay attention to is the condition of the crush washer. Its maybe a good idea to stash a few lightly squished spark plug washers just for that reason.
 
Do you check the resistance of the BR8ES/BR7ES plugs before or after you clean them? :umm:
( We don't use no stinking resistor plugs) :cautious:
$$$$$$$ in the bike and I ain't cleaning no plugs. I look at it, may drag a piece of sand paper thru it, re-gap it and check it with my spark plug tester.
Just watched a tube of a guy testing a re-furbished CB750 coil. Music, clarity of vid, one new plug, one lawnmower plug? and he wandering around like a hungry hound, but he does have it going on!

:laugh:
 
MAPP gas production ended in 2008. Read the fine print. What you guys are buying nowadays is a mapp substitute that goes by the brand name MAP/PRO. It's made up of about 99% propylene and 1% propane. There's less than 100°f difference between it and propane.... both around 3600-3700°f. That extra 50-100° cost you about 50-100% more than propane. Spend your money wisely.

Been bead blasting plugs since I was a wee lad. That's how it's done in the aviation world I came from. Bead blast clean, thorough rinse with solvent and blow out with shop air. Repeat until you're comfortable. In 50+ yrs I've never had any damage or premature failures from glass beads.
 
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Do you check the resistance of the BR8ES/BR7ES plugs before or after you clean them? :umm:
( We don't use no stinking resistor plugs) :cautious:
$$$$$$$ in the bike and I ain't cleaning no plugs. I look at it, may drag a piece of sand paper thru it, re-gap it and check it with my spark plug tester.
Just watched a tube of a guy testing a re-furbished CB750 coil. Music, clarity of vid, one new plug, one lawnmower plug? and he wandering around like a hungry hound, but he does have it going on!

:laugh:

I was curious A while back and started checking all my plugs resistance. Rarely have I found a plug with perfect resistance or continuity of almost 0.06ish Ohms most have slightly higher resistance and if you leave the multimeter on for a while it will add a little more resistance. I usually get a four pack of plugs and will use the two closest in resistance.
 
The little box with the rubber diaphragm with the little hole in it. Stick the plug in, turn it on and there is a little guy in there with a little sandblaster..Don't pull the plug out with him working. Did a good job.
Also allows you to test it under pressure...

unnamed.jpg
 
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