What have you done to your XS today?

Been tinkering with my carbs and found 0.2mm thick washers. I've been experimenting with spacers on my needles. Since the approximate space between each slot or clip to clip is 1mm, I can use these washers to add 4 equal increments between each notch.
Initially, at notch #4 it was way rich, so I ran at #3, but someone, (5Twins), hinted that I should be careful and his advice was a taken. In fact, the advice was in the back of my head every time I rode it. Well, the plugs seemed too clean, so I put 1st, 2 washers on and it ran stronger, but still too clean.
Then went to 3 washers or 60% of the way to the 4th slot and it felt even better. Went up 1 one the mains or 132.5 and so far I'm very pleased.

Thanks 5Twins.

Washers available upon request.

Oh, it's worth mentioning that I fixed the slop in my Pamco to create a more consistent firing point and set the timing at the more retarded "F" mark. Before making any changes in timing and carbs, I read the, "How to read your spark plugs". Very informative!

https://www.strappe.com/plugs.html
 
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Fixed my tach and drained out the oil
I got into the sump cover/screen - had to cut my own new gasket (if it doesn’t leak I can share a pretty accurate template)- screen was in VG condition, The bolt under the sidestand was fun. waiting for a gallon of Yamalube now
Hoping the oil makes a difference on a slipping clutch
Tach was just loose due to the bolt that hold it in there needing some love
Best resource for How to Adjust Clutch?
I did it over last year and I probably just never adjusted it right
Hopefully what I do on my XS TODAY is fill it with oil and check for leaks and RIDE.
 
Humm, engine, chain and wheels on frame and looking to swing engine off now. BUT, thinking of putting the shift kicker back on (cover is off) and by hand turning rear wheel while attempting to shift all the gears....Was thinking of putting a little vice grip in where the clutch cable worm attaches and moving clutch that way. Everything had been so inoperable for so long I did not start the engine. Want to see if gears all drop into place and then maybe not open cases. No oil? Bad idea???
 
Been tinkering with my carbs and found 0.2mm thick washers. I've been experimenting with spacers on my needles. Since the approximate space between each slot or clip to clip is 1mm, I can use these washers to add 4 equal increments between each notch.
Initially, at notch #4 it was way rich, so I ran at #3, but someone, (5Twins), hinted that I should be careful and his advice was a taken. The plugs seemed too clean, so I put 1st, 2 washers on and it ran stronger, but still too clean.
Then went to 3 washers or 60% of the way to the 4th slot and it felt even better. Went up 1 one the mains or 132.5 and so far I'm very pleased.

Washers available upon request.

Oh, it's worth mentioning that I fixed the slop in my Pamco to create a more consistent firing point and set the timing at the more retarded "F" mark. Before making any changes in timing and carbs, I read the, "How to read your spark plugs". Very informative!

https://www.strappe.com/plugs.html

let your engine "tell you " what it wants....not what someone else thinks.... doing plug cuts while running at normal to fast rpm on the road is best.
 
Fixed my tach and drained out the oil
I got into the sump cover/screen - had to cut my own new gasket (if it doesn’t leak I can share a pretty accurate template)- screen was in VG condition, The bolt under the sidestand was fun. waiting for a gallon of Yamalube now
Hoping the oil makes a difference on a slipping clutch
Tach was just loose due to the bolt that hold it in there needing some love
Best resource for How to Adjust Clutch?
I did it over last year and I probably just never adjusted it right
Hopefully what I do on my XS TODAY is fill it with oil and check for leaks and RIDE.
My Yamaha book says loosen lock nut in left side cover. Gently turn adjusting screw in until it bottoms out. Then turn out 1/4 turn and tighten lock nut.
The lever should have at least an 1/8" of play. The book says 2-3mm. If you're new to the xs650, the lever play will change all day when you're riding. That's normal. Hey, my clutch had about 45K on my 72. I tried everything to stop it from slipping and NG. I replaced it with the Mikesxs extra disc clutch kit and I am very pleased with it. I've got about 30K on the clutch now and it only slips when I want it to.
Good luck!
 
Adjusted my clutch pull at the case a bit and took her for a shakedown last evening. It was beautiful and misty. Rode to work today and glad to report that the jacket is breaking in nicely and Fitting a little better.
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Instead of Working on my XS
I completed my garden fence plus removed the old one. The composter will be relocated back in the corner. White Iris are blooming too.
Then I zip tied the tail bag onto the red XS in prep for a ride with CVMG tomorrow if all is well in the AM.
Still have not used up last fall's gas in the '76, so it's time to get some miles on.
 
Took my front end off to tighten the lock nuts on triple
Trees. After assembly gave it a quick wash and then A shakedown run. Up to 95, No more front end wobble. Then ran it out of gas for the 6th or 7th time. Had another biker, Nice Harley guy Named Mike, pull over and drive me to a gas station and use his gas can in the back of his truck.
 
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I've been out a bit actually!
Took apart my carburetors, boiled them to try to fully clear them out.
Didn't work but it did an amazing job still. Bought a new gasket from Mikesxs, new fuel mix screws, removed therubber plug. I put it all back together, gave it some gas and a kick, and she started first try!

That's a new experience for me! Bike's been running very very lean due to the exhaust and pod filters. Seems those rubber plugs did it though, took me 2 tries to get it right. turned the screws out to 4 1/2
Bike doesn't stutter anymore
Runs pretty nice, no road test yet.

Need turn signals and pedometers to be legal. I need to rebuild the forks, replace the chain, the PMA, the shocks and the headlight.
Probably going to delete that factory wire harness I bought from Mikesxs because I want to ditch the front headlight bucket and there's nowhere for the wires to go.

Any tips on shocks? What matters here?
 
Yesterday i visited the * powder coating guy* who was open on Saturday . New mom n pop operaion , grate equipment : B-17 tank, top line vapor blaster and another heavier media baster and 400-450degF oven. Discussed a primary zinc coat and the black coat on frame SA and bits. Quoted flat $250 for frame. $110./hr for blasting. Brought my nasty left side engine cover and he, in 30 seconds v. blasted a fist side spot clean to bare aluminum ft. and back. My delema is all of the original black 1972 paint is on the bike but little rust pimples and one bottom frame rail, stand have some paint gone...surface rust. Engine now out on stand chain ready to clean and right now going out at sunup to wash that frame and really look. put the Left engine cover going back on and attempt to clean the stuck on dirt, dust of ? 30 ?yrs...The paper head tube VIN tag on the head tube is totally there..show 2/72 mfg. dtd. The powder coat guy beat around the bush about that to the point that I know it's < 50/50 he won't splash B-15 on it even if he tries to exclude that in the 450 deg oven ...even if I cover it will do it in. Flat black looks better that the "mirror like" glossy black powder coat finish. I might see if with a hot hair dryer if I can loosen the paper tag's glue or by some other means. If not, buy some paint cleaner, really clan the old frame paint to see what I have and possibly just do a sympathetic black spray. This is just going to be a Sunday morning rider kept inside (after all the frikin work). O, off I go before the mosquito wake up. Anyone save one of seethe head tags?
 
@Mailman did remove and save a VIN tag with very careful heat gun work. I'm just a sandpaper and brush on high build rattle can paint kind O guy. Don't try to do it in one coat, rub with blue magic after a day or two, it all blends and looks factory.
 
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Yesterday i visited the * powder coating guy* who was open on Saturday . New mom n pop operaion , grate equipment : B-17 tank, top line vapor blaster and another heavier media baster and 400-450degF oven. Discussed a primary zinc coat and the black coat on frame SA and bits. Quoted flat $250 for frame. $110./hr for blasting. Brought my nasty left side engine cover and he, in 30 seconds v. blasted a fist side spot clean to bare aluminum ft. and back. My delema is all of the original black 1972 paint is on the bike but little rust pimples and one bottom frame rail, stand have some paint gone...surface rust. Engine now out on stand chain ready to clean and right now going out at sunup to wash that frame and really look. put the Left engine cover going back on and attempt to clean the stuck on dirt, dust of ? 30 ?yrs...The paper head tube VIN tag on the head tube is totally there..show 2/72 mfg. dtd. The powder coat guy beat around the bush about that to the point that I know it's < 50/50 he won't splash B-15 on it even if he tries to exclude that in the 450 deg oven ...even if I cover it will do it in. Flat black looks better that the "mirror like" glossy black powder coat finish. I might see if with a hot hair dryer if I can loosen the paper tag's glue or by some other means. If not, buy some paint cleaner, really clan the old frame paint to see what I have and possibly just do a sympathetic black spray. This is just going to be a Sunday morning rider kept inside (after all the frikin work). O, off I go before the mosquito wake up. Anyone save one of seethe head tags?
On my First XS, the chopper, I did a rattle can job myself, and I successfully removed the factory sticker with patience and a razorblade. I may still have it in an envelope. It was an ‘80 frame though; the sticker may have been manufactured differently, and more robust than the earlier years.
 
I might see if with a hot hair dryer if I can loosen the paper tag's glue or by some other means.

The tag feels like vinyl or something not paper. I heated it with a blow dryer until it began to soften and carefully peeled it off, I then taped it to a piece of paper and saved it with my paper work. It would most definitely be destroyed by powder coating, be sure to remove your steering head lock, I forgot and it melted solid and was a bear to remove. My powder coater put a piece of metal tape over the VIN # so it wouldn’t fill in and then he brushed some clear over it.
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Having said all this, I think you can achieve very nice results with a good quality rattle can. I’ve done a couple that way. It’s just more labor intensive.
 
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