That's alright, go ahead, rub it in, you FAB!
Lets see those old Arizona rubber pieces and seat covers....
Haha! FAB?
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WJL AKA Wrenchjohns Legacy 70 XS1 in gggGary's hands
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
Haha! FAB?
Bob you musta put the bike out in a mid day sun to get those out. Temps about equal an acetylene torch lol!!! JC
JC
All back together, well a bit of polishing on the LH covers then on and ready to ride. Went with the bronze bushings. Used the german bushings found on fleabay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XS-...078462?hash=item547569273e:g:CzgAAOSwFqJWofZ9
were snug drive in fit with an aluminum plate "flange protector" and a 16oz hammer. There had been 3 shims total in the swing arm caps. ended up removing all of them for the correct swing arm "drop".
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XS-...078462?hash=item547569273e:g:CzgAAOSwFqJWofZ9
were snug drive in fit with an aluminum plate "flange protector" and a 16oz hammer. There had been 3 shims total in the swing arm caps. ended up removing all of them for the correct swing arm "drop".
You fall off the wrong side of the bed this morning.
Haha! FAB?
...on another thread, we learned that Wisconsin...ers(?) use the term FIB when referring to their good friends in neighbouring Illinois - and that stands for F@cking Illinois B@stards.
It is good to know that Canada isn’t the only nation riven by regional and sub-national jurisdiction rivalries and snarkiness. Back in the 1970s, a federal policy on splitting up oil industry royalties prompted an Alberta politician to say: “ Let the eastern b@stards freeze in the dark”.
We didn’t mind because they were just a bunch of blue-eyed Arabs anyway....
It passed the "white paper" overnight test! Woot woot.
Rode it with Allison and couple other little jaunts was getting a bit of hesitation on acceleration and it had started to kill at idle. checked plugs found one was an R changed that to a BP7ES both caps read 5K ohms.
Oddly the BPR plug is the slightly better looking one, but both looked fine.
Reset the idle mix to the factory 1 turn out from the 1 1/2 turns where I had it.
I also raised the needle clip from the stock 4th to the 5th and final slot. Nice that on the early carbs that can be done with the carbs on the motor. did a little adjusting equalizing of cables and stops.
Decided I needed to take a look inside the front brake. It was stopping but I was hoping for a bit better, stronger action.
Well everything was in good shape inside.
Some rust, brake dust, grease residue, cleaned everything up, used coarse sharping stones and mineral spirits to derust, smooth the inside of the drum. Reduced the ridge where the shoes don't scrub. Sanded the shoes, broke the glaze. Shoes had lots of pad, were making full contact. Cleaned and lubed the cable, worked it extensively for smooth no bind action. Did a bit of metal clean up and polishing on brake shoe pivot points, the pivot surfaces on the shoes were pretty crude from the factory. and slightly rounded the corner on the actuator cams to more closely resemble later cams as used on the rear of newer XS's, These cams had a sharp break from the flat to the cam profile I just didn't feel that is the way it should look or work. When installed and adjusted the cams are already tipped towards the profile part. But the sharp corner was leaving a dent on the flat plate of the shoe. Made a very light application of synthetic brake grease to pitots and cam faces, I did not remove the cams from the backer plate there was evidence of fresh grease and action free and smooth. Buffed the outside of the backing plate, long as it was off.
Assembled, adjusted per the factory manual. That's bit of an art balancing the two shoes to contact the drum equally. Manual sez listen to both shoes and balance the start of the rubbing sound! Rode it.
Will need to put on a 100 or 200 miles and do some serious stops but I think I'm going to be happy, noticeable improvement.
Oddly the BPR plug is the slightly better looking one, but both looked fine.
Reset the idle mix to the factory 1 turn out from the 1 1/2 turns where I had it.
I also raised the needle clip from the stock 4th to the 5th and final slot. Nice that on the early carbs that can be done with the carbs on the motor. did a little adjusting equalizing of cables and stops.
Decided I needed to take a look inside the front brake. It was stopping but I was hoping for a bit better, stronger action.
Well everything was in good shape inside.
Some rust, brake dust, grease residue, cleaned everything up, used coarse sharping stones and mineral spirits to derust, smooth the inside of the drum. Reduced the ridge where the shoes don't scrub. Sanded the shoes, broke the glaze. Shoes had lots of pad, were making full contact. Cleaned and lubed the cable, worked it extensively for smooth no bind action. Did a bit of metal clean up and polishing on brake shoe pivot points, the pivot surfaces on the shoes were pretty crude from the factory. and slightly rounded the corner on the actuator cams to more closely resemble later cams as used on the rear of newer XS's, These cams had a sharp break from the flat to the cam profile I just didn't feel that is the way it should look or work. When installed and adjusted the cams are already tipped towards the profile part. But the sharp corner was leaving a dent on the flat plate of the shoe. Made a very light application of synthetic brake grease to pitots and cam faces, I did not remove the cams from the backer plate there was evidence of fresh grease and action free and smooth. Buffed the outside of the backing plate, long as it was off.
Assembled, adjusted per the factory manual. That's bit of an art balancing the two shoes to contact the drum equally. Manual sez listen to both shoes and balance the start of the rubbing sound! Rode it.
Will need to put on a 100 or 200 miles and do some serious stops but I think I'm going to be happy, noticeable improvement.
Bit of fiddling today
It was a simple thought; lets see if we can get the neutral light to work. Was just a burned out bulb but the tach had to come off. Then had to go find a gauge to rob a bulb from, one thing led to another.
Found this set, painted black. Bit of acetone and towel, black was gone, speedo had a rub spot on the chrome but it's better than the one on WJL, per John not original to the bike anyways,
just like that 10,000 less miles 
and a better looking gauge.
Well long as I was up on the triples the non stock type headlight... while it works fine, it's look has always slightly annoyed me.
Found this in the bins and, I'll let the pics tell the story.
cleaned up the glass and bulb applied some hylomar to the rubber seal, replaced and recrimped.
No cover on the brake vent one busted off screw.
A little bit of fun
think I found some perforated metal vent caps to replace the rubber plugs for full airflow. Can WERA, AMA racing be far off?
I did ride last night and the brake is definitely better than it was. Normal stops are 2 finger easy! still best to use all four to haul it down in a hard stop, but probably skid the tire capable.
Now get allison some supper and out for a ride.
It was a simple thought; lets see if we can get the neutral light to work. Was just a burned out bulb but the tach had to come off. Then had to go find a gauge to rob a bulb from, one thing led to another.
Found this set, painted black. Bit of acetone and towel, black was gone, speedo had a rub spot on the chrome but it's better than the one on WJL, per John not original to the bike anyways,
just like that 10,000 less miles and a better looking gauge. Well long as I was up on the triples the non stock type headlight... while it works fine, it's look has always slightly annoyed me.
Found this in the bins and, I'll let the pics tell the story.
cleaned up the glass and bulb applied some hylomar to the rubber seal, replaced and recrimped.
No cover on the brake vent one busted off screw.
A little bit of fun
think I found some perforated metal vent caps to replace the rubber plugs for full airflow. Can WERA, AMA racing be far off?
I did ride last night and the brake is definitely better than it was. Normal stops are 2 finger easy! still best to use all four to haul it down in a hard stop, but probably skid the tire capable.
Now get allison some supper and out for a ride.
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That’s pretty cool! I never knew you could remove the lens on a sealed beam headlight.
These early headlights, 70-73 aren't really sealed beam. It doesn't show well in that pic, but there's a sealed bulb inside the "sealed beam"
@Mailman you asked about the difference, jumping from WJL to Madness and back.
Tonight I actually RODE WJL, ran it to redline through several gears a few times. Really pulled down on the "new "front brake, got on the freeway and ran it for a few miles at 80MPH, bombed some traffic circles. Dragged a stand, center I think. For the most part the differences aren't that great. The tall first, and the early cam liking to rev, primitive front suspension, stiff Mikes rear shocks, drum brake, all noticeable but not attention grabbing. What DID get my attention was high speed on rain grooves with the K70's and those deep offset front triples. Brought back memories of that 71 I had 40 years ago! She was "light in her boots" front felt light, and apt to wander. Good thing John had done a good job putting in the all balls tapered steering bearings and prolly the new swingarm bushings I just put in didn't hurt. I made a point of trying to upset it with some abrupt steering inputs and it settled back down. But with some weight in a set of panniers or a tail rack/bag and I suspect it would start to wobble, would be no fun trying to rack up miles at 70, 75MPH. But 95% of the time all is good, perfect for backroads and up to 65 ish. I think mebbe with some modern tread design tires and couple little tweeks it would be fine even at speed. Madness was a handful at speed with a lot of gear strapped on the back also.
Hey what a great evening to be out n about! Only saw 5 or 6 deer. This time of year it's mostly solo does, another month and the fawns will be following the doe. Sunday I had to wait for a "lost" fawn that was wandering around in the road. Lucky fawn, was at a farmstead but the dogs didn't see it...
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Huh...those are some interesting observations. I thought the differences would be really noticeable. I’ve ran my XS2 up around 70 for short runs, but I’ve stayed away from getting near the red line, I know the guy that built the motor and I’m not sure how much I trust his work!
This 70 motor seems GREAT!
So that stand dragging bothered me, did some looking.
John had retrofitted a later stand by shortening the brace and rewelding.
but there's other differences.
think this "a little worse for wear" early stand will get a fresh (low profile?) tang and go back on...
WJ was this the stand that came with the "extra partz"?
John had retrofitted a later stand by shortening the brace and rewelding.
but there's other differences.
think this "a little worse for wear" early stand will get a fresh (low profile?) tang and go back on...
WJ was this the stand that came with the "extra partz"?
Attachments
wrenchjohns
XS650 Addict
Nope, the original disappeared when she sat in my brothers house.
john
john
You can take the boy off the race track, but you can’t take the racer out of the boy! You never slow down, you never grow old!
You promised not to show that!
Getting WJL ready for the road trip to Atlantic Iowa. GLJ and I are planning to meet up, ride over together.
It had no turn signals installed and my recent Norton travels have convinced me of the wisdom of a brighter headlight.
The LH control had the TS switch and main harness, MikesXS? had the turn signal wires already in. I had some repo TS's I used for the front, they were just bulb type but I converted them to bright LEDs. The rear were laying around with the bracket. cuz I want to put bags on for the trip I thought the far aft location was a good idea. Used an electronic blinker can. Also added usb, voltmeter and phone mount.
Still to go; bag brackets, bags, different hand grips and centerstand. Going to either switch to the seat WJ had on or use the ole sheepskin pad, mebbie both. This original, soft as concrete foam is pretty brutal. Might look at the footpegs too, they buzz pretty good.
Lots to do yet.
It had no turn signals installed and my recent Norton travels have convinced me of the wisdom of a brighter headlight.
The LH control had the TS switch and main harness, MikesXS? had the turn signal wires already in. I had some repo TS's I used for the front, they were just bulb type but I converted them to bright LEDs. The rear were laying around with the bracket. cuz I want to put bags on for the trip I thought the far aft location was a good idea. Used an electronic blinker can. Also added usb, voltmeter and phone mount.
Still to go; bag brackets, bags, different hand grips and centerstand. Going to either switch to the seat WJ had on or use the ole sheepskin pad, mebbie both. This original, soft as concrete foam is pretty brutal. Might look at the footpegs too, they buzz pretty good.
Lots to do yet.
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Boy, that bike looks and sounds so good! 
So is this just a joy ride? Or are you going to look at another old Norton?
So is this just a joy ride? Or are you going to look at another old Norton?
Very nice Gary. I’ll bet you and Greg have a fun ride!
