Got the SE running but I have a couple of issues of course. The electric start has come good and fires her up almost immediately. She was ticking away when I removed the left plug and found no change in revs - she must have been running on one cylinder. Sounds good like that but I don't think it's what I want. Checked the plug for spark and got none so I changed the plug and she fired up on both. Seemed to run fine and responded appropriately when I removed the cap from each cylinder. Left her overnight fired her up next morning and had the same issue - left cylinder wasn't firing. Checked the plug - no spark again. I took the plug from the running right side and put it in the left. Replaced the right hand plug with another spare. Fired her up and left cylinder ran but now, no right. Intriguing! Can't be another bad plug?
Began to check the electric system and started with the rotor. No magnetic "slap" with the key on. The resistance between the rotor strips was only 1 ohm. My leads read in at 0.1 so that means that there is a reading of 0.9 between the rings. Checked continuity on the rings to earth and got a 1 on both.
I assume that I am doing this right.
Resistance - ignition off, multimeter set at 200 ohms, blacklead on outer ring, red on the inner ring. The readout stays on 1.
Continuity - selected on meter, red on ring, black on earth - reading 1
So continuity appears to be OK but resistance is nowhere near 4.
Getting 11.9 volts at the brushes (new) from a 12.5 battery charge
Battery voltage doesn't seem to increase as I increase the revs; it hangs around 12.55.
The non- firing cylinder could be carbs as I haven't done a lot to them in terms of synch though they were "drag through" checked with a card. Jets, floats and needles are new and carbs were cleaned a couple of times pretty conscientiously. Rectifier and regulator are also new as is the ignition switch. I fear it might be the rotor that is giving me grief what with the intermittent and swapping spark and the lack of charge. A new rotor is around $170 so is there anything else I should check before I shelve out the bucks?
All advice appreciated as usual.
Began to check the electric system and started with the rotor. No magnetic "slap" with the key on. The resistance between the rotor strips was only 1 ohm. My leads read in at 0.1 so that means that there is a reading of 0.9 between the rings. Checked continuity on the rings to earth and got a 1 on both.
I assume that I am doing this right.
Resistance - ignition off, multimeter set at 200 ohms, blacklead on outer ring, red on the inner ring. The readout stays on 1.
Continuity - selected on meter, red on ring, black on earth - reading 1
So continuity appears to be OK but resistance is nowhere near 4.
Getting 11.9 volts at the brushes (new) from a 12.5 battery charge
Battery voltage doesn't seem to increase as I increase the revs; it hangs around 12.55.
The non- firing cylinder could be carbs as I haven't done a lot to them in terms of synch though they were "drag through" checked with a card. Jets, floats and needles are new and carbs were cleaned a couple of times pretty conscientiously. Rectifier and regulator are also new as is the ignition switch. I fear it might be the rotor that is giving me grief what with the intermittent and swapping spark and the lack of charge. A new rotor is around $170 so is there anything else I should check before I shelve out the bucks?
All advice appreciated as usual.