81 Barn find!!! low mile XS650

Orion61

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I was lucky enough to find a very low mile nearly all original 1981 XS650! when I pulled the cover off I couldn't believe the over all condition, an added front chrome foot peg set. It comes with a REAL leather set of Saddle bags. Nothing has been taken off so it is a survivor. the bad is dimples (nickle size) on each size of the tank with some bending of the flasher mounts on each side. carbs need cleaned, but I have a 6 liter ultrasonic cleaner.
I have have a gallon of chem dip but it is getting old, don't know how long it lasts?
O also have 5 quarts of Methyl Ethyl-MEK.. I don't know if that be could be used? I do know any rubber parts
the floats and all the brass jets would need to be removed.
The longer I see it the more I am falling for it, there are only a bit over 9.000 miles on the bike, chain sprocket and tires look new. I checked the oil and not only was it full it looked like it has just been changed! less corroding fumes! The next "YAY" moment was when I did a cold compression test and L cyl was 151, and R cyl was 149.. I couldn't get fuel to the carbs but pulled the filter boxes and sprayed some fresh gas from a spray bottle, Battery is new and it popped off after only about 3rrd turn over by the starter. tank doesn't look rusty I was told their dad was a Sea Foam and Staybill addict. The guy that cast resin the Triumph tank badges with Yamaha in Triumph script the middle gave me the rest of his
'rejects" which are easily cleaned up, enough for 3 or 4 sets, he also gave me a pewter set of the Trumph script that I could cut out the Resin to fit.. when I am done I'll probably have a couple extra sets I'd be happy to pass on (If I can get the sellers OK....

I want to tank all of you SX\TX 650 lovers that have helped me in the past. Even tho my first TX650 was back in 1985.
Thank you very much.
Larry Beach



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I was lucky enough to find a very low mile nearly all original 1981 XS650! when I pulled the cover off I couldn't believe the over all condition, an added front chrome foot peg set. It comes with a REAL leather set of Saddle bags. Nothing has been taken off so it is a survivor. the bad is dimples (nickle size) on each size of the tank with some bending of the flasher mounts on each side. carbs need cleaned, but I have a 6 liter ultrasonic cleaner.
I have have a gallon of chem dip but it is getting old, don't know how long it lasts?
O also have 5 quarts of Methyl Ethyl-MEK.. I don't know if that be could be used? I do know any rubber parts
the floats and all the brass jets would need to be removed.
The longer I see it the more I am falling for it, there are only a bit over 9.000 miles on the bike, chain sprocket and tires look new. I checked the oil and not only was it full it looked like it has just been changed! less corroding fumes! The next "YAY" moment was when I did a cold compression test and L cyl was 151, and R cyl was 149.. I couldn't get fuel to the carbs but pulled the filter boxes and sprayed some fresh gas from a spray bottle, Battery is new and it popped off after only about 3rrd turn over by the starter. tank doesn't look rusty I was told their dad was a Sea Foam and Staybill addict. The guy that cast resin the Triumph tank badges with Yamaha in Triumph script the middle gave me the rest of his
'rejects" which are easily cleaned up, enough for 3 or 4 sets, he also gave me a pewter set of the Trumph script that I could cut out the Resin to fit.. when I am done I'll probably have a couple extra sets I'd be happy to pass on (If I can get the sellers OK....

I want to tank all of you SX\TX 650 lovers that have helped me in the past. Even tho my first TX650 was back in 1985.
Thank you very much.
Larry Beach



View attachment 171833 View attachment 171834 View attachment 171836 View attachment 171833 View attachment 171833 View attachment 171834 View attachment 171836 View attachment 171836
Nice 81, that’s what I ride!
 
Can't wait to see the progress as she comes back to life!

The wake up mantra; remove plugs, lube everything, plenty of plugs out kicking to spread the lube, remember one valve has been sitting open for a LONG time. Get a head stud retorque done too. If you are lucky you'll catch it before the head gasket blows out.
 
Yes, that looks to be in wonderful shape. It should clean up pretty easy. The one I'm working on was much worse and it came back rather nicely. Bent headlight ears and drooping turn signals seem pretty common but are easy to remedy.

I like to clean the carbs by hand but make sure you give them the "full Monty". I discovered my P.O. hadn't done that when I got into mine. He skipped the mix screws and the butterfly shaft seals. He said the carbs had always given him issues and that may be why. After completing the job, which included the things he skipped, the carbs seem to work just fine.
 
IMHO, completely dismantle the carburetors. Plant to replace the butterfly shaft seals. A JIS screwdriver will help. Diluted Simple Green in your ultrasonic cleaner works perfectly fine for me (mine has a heater).
I'm a big fan of the '81 Special, unless you want a custom. It's slightly more challenging to customize than earlier ones, depending upon what you want to do. That one is going to look pretty awesome just by giving it a bath!
 
IMHO, completely dismantle the carburetors. Plant to replace the butterfly shaft seals. A JIS screwdriver will help. Diluted Simple Green in your ultrasonic cleaner works perfectly fine for me (mine has a heater).
I'm a big fan of the '81 Special, unless you want a custom. It's slightly more challenging to customize than earlier ones, depending upon what you want to do. That one is going to look pretty awesome just by giving it a bath!
Yes my 6 liter ultrasonic cleaner has a heater and a timer on it.
Thanks for the replu.
IMHO, completely dismantle the carburetors. Plant to replace the butterfly shaft seals. A JIS screwdriver will help. Diluted Simple Green in your ultrasonic cleaner works perfectly fine for me (mine has a heater).
I'm a big fan of the '81 Special, unless you want a custom. It's slightly more challenging to customize than earlier ones, depending upon what you want to do. That one is going to look pretty awesome just by giving it a bath!
IMHO, completely dismantle the carburetors. Plant to replace the butterfly shaft seals. A JIS screwdriver will help. Diluted Simple Green in your ultrasonic cleaner works perfectly fine for me (mine has a heater).
I'm a big fan of the '81 Special, unless you want a custom. It's slightly more challenging to customize than earlier ones, depending upon what you want to do. That one is going to look pretty awesome just by giving it a bath!

Thanks I hadn't thought about the butterfly seals! Are the head gasket torque and nut pattern, I'll try and look
Nice 81, that’s what I ride!
I.m sorry but when I saw your home town it looked like "Cheapstake Bay" haha sorry, no offence.
I couldn't believe it when the guy (my Bro-In-Law) threw off that heavy cover, he didn't do anything to it just hauled it home! He really thought he got one over on me. We started at $1000.000 and I countered at $400.00, back and forth to $600. He said he only gave $250.00 for it.
Do you know if the bushing that flexes on the frame is the same as on a 75 XS2b? I bought one for me 75 but never installed it.
Larry DUANE
 
Not sure what bushing you are referring to but if you mean the swingarm bushings, there would be two and the usual route taken for replacements is to go with aftermarket bronze ones because the originals are plastic. But yes, they would be the same for a '75 and your new bike.
 
Fine bike
The dings does not matter in my opinion
If it was me and I had that large Ultrasonic Cleaner I would consider not separating the carburetors
from the angle bar holding them together.
I have tried that. It is some Japanese standard Philips like Screw and as it seems with some thread locking chemical applied
That should be outlawed with at least 3 Years in Prison.
Once the screw head is destroyed it can be many hours hard work , and strong hands getting off the stumps
Heat and Oil and Parrot nose pliers of different sizes
On one I had to use a Screw extractor.
I do own JIS Screwdrivers and ratchets of different ,, various types .But it is not that easy to hold the carburetors.
And at the same time loosen the bolts.
Perhaps some has luck with impact Screwdrivers .But again how lock the carburetors to hit . Without damaging.

If Pop off means stopped turning there is always the Kick .I would have tried to get info as when it last ran.
Checking engine oil level of course.
Taken the plugs out poured in a little oil.
Carefully started to kick it ,for a while ..Plugs out . Attention to what happens. If it turns properly.
Distributing oil
The plugs out but resting on the block kicking watching the
Sparks . Then I would have tried to start it . Not necessarily the same day.
Looking after gas leakage some carburetor float might not seal the first few days.
The petcock has an open position if it over floods in the beginning Not something necessary unnormal.

Most likely the carburetor need service on the smaller jets .
But if the Oil looks new it may well be that the Previous owner has changed it before storage
At that point in time he can have closed the fuel and letting the machine idle till the carburetors are more or less
empty .
So all in all there is a chance the machine will start up . Fresh oil and fresh gas
fresh battery. It might leak gas in the beginning. Be careful so it wont catch fire.
just leave it a day or week open and close the petcock. Preferably battery not in.
As said above .. checking the bolts is not wrong but I would be surprised if much is needed

My view is one can get information about the machine if it starts.
It can sound terrible if the carburetors are not OK but it can also sound good.
Recently I had a Carburetor problem at startup .. The Pilot jet .
You can reach that from under .. Don t need to take carburetors out
Getting it out ( The Jet ) and run in the Ultra cleaner.
Some people use additives in the gas with the purpose of cleaning .. Not exactly perfect but it is used.
Depending on the look in the tank but emptying it and removing the petcock flushing it out properly inspecting the filter can save problems. If rust no sense trying to start without filter.

I would not be surprised at all if you are out riding in a few days ( test ride anyways )
Brakes might need service ..
If no backfiring and other noise --- leakage --- inspect the plugs So it does not run to lean.
Better a bit on black side to start with.
No hot rodding high revs in the beginning .. I Would not ride slow in town hot days.
Oil needs to come in everywhere.
A low mileage engine still has tight clearances fex Piston Pin
Its low mileage so if you have bad luck the valve stem gaskets have dried and some type bikes can smoke a bit. Lets see what happens.

If it goes like this there is another decision to make. later on
Here were I live is an advantage if you can ride this time ... of year .Getting out in the wind with friends and so
and do the service maintenance later in fall or winter.
A few miles on the clock and there are better information. For what you decide to do.
 
I must caution you about trying to start or run the bike without first looking into the carbs. If it was sitting with gas in it all this time, evaporation has turned that into something more the consistency of oil or syrup. A startup attempt will suck that gunk into all the small passageways and plug the carbs up big time. You will have made your carb cleaning project like 10 times harder now.

You'll have to remove at least one carb from that angle bracket to get at the butterfly shaft seals. Yes, those Philips screws used in the angle bracket are tight, and installed with some sort of thread locking compound. Once out, I replace them with Allens. To get them out, you may need some heat (heat gun) and a hand impact to break them loose. After that, my tools of choice are Vessel J.I.S. 1/4" screwdriver bits and a T-handle holder for them .....

H0oND4x.jpg


3WbPmX1.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E62NIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I must caution you about trying to start or run the bike without first looking into the carbs. If it was sitting with gas in it all this time, evaporation has turned that into something more the consistency of oil or syrup. A startup attempt will suck that gunk into all the small passageways and plug the carbs up big time. You will have made your carb cleaning project like 10 times harder now.

You'll have to remove at least one carb from that angle bracket to get at the butterfly shaft seals. Yes, those Philips screws used in the angle bracket are tight, and installed with some sort of thread locking compound. Once out, I replace them with Allens. To get them out, you may need some heat (heat gun) and a hand impact to break them loose. After that, my tools of choice are Vessel J.I.S. 1/4" screwdriver bits and a T-handle holder for them .....

H0oND4x.jpg


3WbPmX1.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E62NIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ok Ok Ok lets inspect first ,,it is simple to do from under i suppose 4 screws on each carb
Taking the bowl down.
I reckoned the Ultra Cleaner would solve it later on if problems . But I might be wrong.

The angle bar I worked on recently no chance at all with a T bar.
Much larger forces and torque needed all the way out almost.
I used a gas burner for heat.
Please give info how you place the carburetors when using the Impact driver.
And method I suppose you turn it counter clockwise first and then hit.
Is it special Impact driver --- small ?
But how do you find a JIS bit for the impact driver ??
If using the wrong bit it can lead to problems.
Is it the uppermost picture. ??
Please give info if JIS bits can be bought somewhere at reasonable prices.
I have 2 Screwdrivers vessel but ordered them from Japan at high Prices.
But also the best screwdrivers I ever used.

But bits is the best way I think Loosening. Bolts and Screws .
Those Philips are the troublesome ones
Pushing down hard on the bit and using a 1/4 Inch ratchet
The Bit then stays in the slot and at the same time good torque can be applied.
Of course it is personal preferences.
But I Have success with that --one can see if it is working .,The bit stays in .Applying force
till The magical popping sound when it comes loose.
Then the T bar is handy after it is loose.
But in the case of the carburetor Angle bar I had no Point when it popped Loose
 
Not sure what bushing you are referring to but if you mean the swingarm bushings, there would be two and the usual route taken for replacements is to go with aftermarket bronze ones because the originals are plastic. But yes, they would be the same for a '75 and your new bike.
YES swing arm bushings, my set has needle bearings. Anyone ever try those?
 
I was lucky enough to find a very low mile nearly all original 1981 XS650! when I pulled the cover off I couldn't believe the over all condition, an added front chrome foot peg set. It comes with a REAL leather set of Saddle bags. Nothing has been taken off so it is a survivor. the bad is dimples (nickle size) on each size of the tank with some bending of the flasher mounts on each side. carbs need cleaned, but I have a 6 liter ultrasonic cleaner.
I have have a gallon of chem dip but it is getting old, don't know how long it lasts?
O also have 5 quarts of Methyl Ethyl-MEK.. I don't know if that be could be used? I do know any rubber parts
the floats and all the brass jets would need to be removed.
The longer I see it the more I am falling for it, there are only a bit over 9.000 miles on the bike, chain sprocket and tires look new. I checked the oil and not only was it full it looked like it has just been changed! less corroding fumes! The next "YAY" moment was when I did a cold compression test and L cyl was 151, and R cyl was 149.. I couldn't get fuel to the carbs but pulled the filter boxes and sprayed some fresh gas from a spray bottle, Battery is new and it popped off after only about 3rrd turn over by the starter. tank doesn't look rusty I was told their dad was a Sea Foam and Staybill addict. The guy that cast resin the Triumph tank badges with Yamaha in Triumph script the middle gave me the rest of his
'rejects" which are easily cleaned up, enough for 3 or 4 sets, he also gave me a pewter set of the Trumph script that I could cut out the Resin to fit.. when I am done I'll probably have a couple extra sets I'd be happy to pass on (If I can get the sellers OK....

I want to tank all of you SX\TX 650 lovers that have helped me in the past. Even tho my first TX650 was back in 1985.
Thank you very much.
Larry Beach

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Hi Larry,
nice find, I writhe with envy.
Hopefully it's just a clean the carbs and go thing to get a test ride.
But only just carefully around the block on those tires.
They may still look perfect but they have lost their grip over he years.
 
Great find Larry. Were you lucky enough to get a cleat title for the bike?
 
When I try to remove the screws that secure the carburetors to the angle bar it was obvious that the screw heads were soft and that they were very tight. I simply grabbed a small vise grips and clamp them very tightly to the screw heads and was able to crack them loose with no issue or damage done to the Phillips screw head. I also use that same small vise grip to put the final torque on them during reassembly. It was simple, effective, and painless to the carburetors.
 
When I try to remove the screws that secure the carburetors to the angle bar it was obvious that the screw heads were soft and that they were very tight. I simply grabbed a small vise grips and clamp them very tightly to the screw heads and was able to crack them loose with no issue or damage done to the Phillips screw head. I also use that same small vise grip to put the final torque on them during reassembly. It was simple, effective, and painless to the carburetors.

This is something worth trying . And not only for these screws . Since JIS tools might be hard to find
if possible please upload a picture of a suitable vice grip
Perhaps someone else than the factory had applied some other locking chemical on mine since there was no
" Coming loose " -- stiff resistance all the way. out
 
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