Re wiring problem

Cadergray

XS650 Enthusiast
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Athena Oregon
Hello to whoever is willing to be my saving grace. I have an 83 special that I am turning into a cafe racer. I want to run the bike without an ignition and kickstart only. I am having troubles bypassing the ignition and I only want to run the bike for a little bit just to make sure everything works fine on it. I have the red wire from the rectifier to an income 20amp and to the positive terminal on the battery. I also have the rectifier and TCI grounded to the negative terminal. After I can successfully run the bike I want to add the headlight and new turnsignals. No horn no starter and no ignition, at least for now.
 

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All you need to attach to make bike run is the red (red/white) wire for the tci and the coils thats it and bike will run
I use a toggle switch from battery to TCI
 
So I got the bike to run and I was super jazzed about it. I proceeded to pit everything back on to ride it for the first time, but then I had no spark. So I'm pretty frustrated right now and I don't know what happened to the bike in the 5 minutes it took to pit it back together. Thoughts?
 
If you "hot wire" it, it will be on all the time and have power running to the TCI and coil. I'm pretty sure the TCI has a safety feature built into it that shuts it down after about 5 or 10 minutes if the bike isn't running. This protects it and the coil from overheating and burning out. If you must "hot wire" it, it would probably be best to put a toggle switch on the hot line, or a bullet connection you could unplug, when you're not running the bike, so you could turn the power off.
 
Ok I set it up with a toggle switch and the bike fires right up. I discovered a small oil leak and made a new gasket for that. I still have one issue with the clutch and the kickstarter, if I have the clutch adjusted and the bike in neutral and I go to kick it, it doesn't turn the bike over and I just kick through it. But when I back the screw to adjust the clutch out the bike kicks over. How can I fix this issue?
 
You're setting the adjuster screw too tight and it's disengaging the clutch. For setting that worm adjuster screw, you should screw it in until it bottoms then back it out slightly, like 1/8 of a turn. I "fan" the clutch lever as I tighten the adjuster screw. By that I mean I pump the lever in and out just through it's freeplay range. I don't pull it all the way in and disengage the clutch, just move it through it's freeplay range. What this does is stack the assortment of balls and pushrods running through the cases tightly together, and this gives you the best (tightest) adjustment possible. When "fanning" the lever while tightening the screw, I'm often able to get it to go in about another 1/4 turn tighter. If left where it was before the "fanning" operation, it would result in an adjustment setting that was waaaay loose.
 
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