First time rider with 83 XS650

Keefus

Keefus

XS650 Member
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Hi everyone,

As the title implies, I’m a new rider who purchased an 83’ XS650. I like cafe racers and the price was good. It’s a sexy looking bike, buuuut it needs some work.

Currently the big issue is the clutch/transmission. When the bike gets hot from riding the gears start to stick, where I need to use all my strength to shift. I know that’s not normal or good. At this point the bike will also start to creep in first.

I have someone telling me the clutch plates are shot. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
There are an adjustment at the left side
a small round cover --over the shift lever
About an inch diameter.
Under that is a locknut and a Philips screw.
Loosen the nut and turn the screw clockwise gives more clutch
left less.
I you have a central stand . I put it on that
Start the engine rear wheel in the air
Put it in first gear . At idle
Pull in the clutch and try to stop the wheel with the foot against the Tire ( solid footwear )
If that dont work turn the Philips screw a little 1/4 circle at a time
to the right and do it again.
If no central stand -- it can be done on the Road
Take the screwdriver and spanner 12 or 13 mm cant exactly remember
with you.
Leave the cover at home.
If you go to far ( adjusting ) the kick starter will slip or the clutch will slip
Then you just go back. On the screw
Wrong oil can also be a factor in other bikes clutch operation.
Not heard of it for XS650
 

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Keefus said:
Hi everyone,

As the title implies, I’m a new rider who purchased an 83’ XS650. I like cafe racers and the price was good. It’s a sexy looking bike, buuuut it needs some work.

Currently the big issue is the clutch/transmission. When the bike gets hot from riding the gears start to stick, where I need to use all my strength to shift. I know that’s not normal or good. At this point the bike will also start to creep in first.

I have someone telling me the clutch plates are shot. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...

The clutch plates may be shot - but I doubt it. The XS650 clutch is pretty tough and doesn't usually wear out very fast. My guess is that the clutch is simply not adjusted properly. This is a VERY common problem and it is a well-known cause of difficult shifting - and it is really easy to fix.

So - here are the steps:
  1. wind the cable adjuster on the left handlebar all the way IN so that the cable is slack;
  2. remove the little round chrome cover from the left hand engine case (use a small screwdriver to pry it off - gently);
  3. use a JIS (some people think Phillips) screwdriver to hold the little adjuster screw while you loosen the locknut (12mm I think) by turning it counterclockwise
  4. turn the adjuster screw clockwise until it juust bottoms (i.e. you meet some resistance) - and then either leave it or turn it CCW a teeny bit;
  5. hold the screw to keep it from turning and tighten the locknut - but don't overdo it (they tend to tighten up as the engine runs);
  6. now, go back to the handlebar cable adjuster and adjust it OUT until that the lever can move about 1/8" (or 3 mm) measured at the hinge point and then tighten the locknut to secure the cable slack adjustment.
Now try the bike - I'll bet it works way better.
NOTE: many XS650's still have a hard time finding neutral when the engine is hot - but if you get into the habit of popping it into neutral as you are rolling to a stop, life will be easier.

While you are doing all this work, check your clutch cable. It likely needs to be lubricated (just remove it and hang it vertically - then drip some oil down it till the oil drips out the other end) and also check to be sure that the cable isn't frayed. They commonly break right at the clutch lever - so if there are any loose or kinked strands, do yourself a big favour and go on-line and buy a Motion Pro brand (https://www.motionpro.com/c/cables) clutch cable replacement for about $11 USD.

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Pete
 
Agree with all on the adjust clutch and check cable advice. I would also add don't force it to shift!

If you are putting all that pressure on it to shift you could end up with more problems. Like bent shift forks or worn shift forks both of which can lead to jumping out of gear and only way to fix that is to split engine and replace parts. Not something you want to do if you don't have to!

Other question I might have is do you have any history on this bike? Like any work done to it or how many miles on it.

Might also be a good idea if not already done would be to change oil and inspect oil screens. If you need help with that just ask, I think there are some links in the home page for this forum. Click on the Tech button up at the top!
 
Hey All,

Thank you for the immediate and informative responses. It's reassuring to know this forum is full of knowledgeable members willing to help.

Responding to your messages in order:

Jan_P: I've adjusted the clutch a couple of times. I've had the most success with about a 1/4 turn. I initially did this because I was having trouble finding neutral as I was learning to ride around my local streets. I still feel I'm seeking neutral at times. I usually drop to 1st and move up to 2nd to finesse it down to neutral. Whoever did the bike over removed the neutral indicator light so I'm going by feel. I'll go at the adjustments again and be more thorough.

MaxPete & Downeaster: I'll make sure not to over-tighten the lock-nut, the heat expansion makes sense. The previous owner converted the mechanical clutch cable to hydraulic. Checked the fluid on the hydraulic clutch, looks a little milky so I'm sure it needs to be changed/cleaned. Wondering if I can use denatured alcohol to clean the lines and the booster. Anyone know if I can covert back to a cable and is it worth it?

Lakeview: Thank you. I attached some photos of the bike and the hydraulic clutch below. Let me know anything else I should provide pictures of to help with diagnosing.

Kshansen & Joebgd: Only took it for two long rides, which is when the shifting started to stick. I'll get this resolved before riding again so I don't damage anything forcing gears. I'm the 4th owner of the bike since it was redone. My friend kind of knows the guy that rebuilt the bike, supposedly he did a full engine rebuild. He still has pictures on his instagram of the before/after, I'll try to get them. I've been in contact with the 2nd owner, because of something related to the title.The 3rd owner, guy I bought it from, probably wasn't taking care of it at all. I'll do an oil change ASAP. Should I purchase a new oil and sump filter to start fresh?

IMG_1906.jpg
IMG_1893.jpg
61810305181__C8CC48F8-ACD8-48BA-BEA3-1A182B209B68.JPG
61602721517__D5F56BA0-BF48-44DC-9090-5FC65C274094.JPG
 
OK now am I seeing it right this has some kind of hydraulic clutch modification?

In that case you might want to contact the person who built this bike as all the "normal" ideas might not apply.
 
kshansen said:
OK now am I seeing it right this has some kind of hydraulic clutch modification?

In that case you might want to contact the person who built this bike as all the "normal" ideas might not apply.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it was converted to a hydraulic clutch. So adjusting the clutch screw might not resolve the issue?
 
Keefus said:
Hey All,

Thank you for the immediate and informative responses. It's reassuring to know this forum is full of knowledgeable members willing to help.

Responding to your messages in order:

Jan_P: I've adjusted the clutch a couple of times. I've had the most success with about a 1/4 turn. I initially did this because I was having trouble finding neutral as I was learning to ride around my local streets. I still feel I'm seeking neutral at times. I usually drop to 1st and move up to 2nd to finesse it down to neutral. Whoever did the bike over removed the neutral indicator light so I'm going by feel. I'll go at the adjustments again and be more thorough.

MaxPete & Downeaster: I'll make sure not to over-tighten the lock-nut, the heat expansion makes sense. The previous owner converted the mechanical clutch cable to hydraulic. Checked the fluid on the hydraulic clutch, looks a little milky so I'm sure it needs to be changed/cleaned. Wondering if I can use denatured alcohol to clean the lines and the booster. Anyone know if I can covert back to a cable and is it worth it?

Lakeview: Thank you. I attached some photos of the bike and the hydraulic clutch below. Let me know anything else I should provide pictures of to help with diagnosing.

Kshansen & Joebgd: Only took it for two long rides, which is when the shifting started to stick. I'll get this resolved before riding again so I don't damage anything forcing gears. I'm the 4th owner of the bike since it was redone. My friend kind of knows the guy that rebuilt the bike, supposedly he did a full engine rebuild. He still has pictures on his instagram of the before/after, I'll try to get them. I've been in contact with the 2nd owner, because of something related to the title.The 3rd owner, guy I bought it from, probably wasn't taking care of it at all. I'll do an oil change ASAP. Should I purchase a new oil and sump filter to start fresh?

View attachment 172952 View attachment 172953 View attachment 172954 View attachment 172955
Click to expand...

That’s a seat from Wes at Counter Balance Cycles if I’m not mistake, I have one myself
 
Hi again
By your response I assume that there are the mentioned lock nut and JIS ( Phillips Screw )
And adjustments make a difference.
Is a little more clockwise adjustment possible ?
But it can be something not known on the inside
I would go for it . Counting hos much say a halt circle .To begi with and then another half circle
If you keep a record of how much --- you can turn it back again. The same amount.
If nothing happens.
Are there a reservoir for the clutch and enough fluid. ?
The red thing on top with an Allen head may well be an adjuster I have never seen it. I dont know
I think it was mentioned that it can be a bit tricky to find neutral especially hot days.
I have that to.
neutral.jpg

Neutral light. Switch
Behind the cylinders on top of the block it usually sits please look at the enclosed picture
If it is there it is a one wire series circuit to make a lamp I believe
Not sure if it differs on various models. ( So a little careful is best )
That Switch Closes the circuit with the lamp to ground when the neutral is in.
A fuse + a lamp holder with lamp --to the top of the Switch a small Phillips head I believe is what is needed.
The wiring loom has that wire as stock if I remember correctly it sits on the alternator stator wire.
I might still be there.
 

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