Solid state regulator rectifier help

bpupeza

I like motorcycles
Messages
77
Reaction score
18
Points
8
Location
Big Lake Minnesota
4FD2D4EE-3121-4926-BE74-A37EBFFEC63E.jpeg
F6FF7DA3-D840-4BE3-906D-DB4B500E4F05.jpeg
D82A4711-E5B7-4FBA-B07E-18E109EA55E9.jpeg
I have read a ton of stuff about this but I dont seem to have it right. This is a regulator rectifier that I had on my bobber years ago and it worked good. The bike runs, the lights, blinkers, and horn work. When I go to test the battery voltage, when running, my meter goes berserk. The battery voltage is good when the bike isn’t running.
3 yellow wires to 3 white wires
Orange to green
Green to black
Red to battery and key
Blue to kill run switch for lights, coils, etc.
Its not a factory harness.
Am I doing something obviously wrong?
Do I need the nylon screws? I didn’t need them on the last two I had these same units on.
I didnt have a new connector block to put on it so I just soldered these wires up temporarily.
 
I see from your 1st pic that this current bike has the early '70-'79 type alternator and charging system. This system requires a type B power switching regulator. If your previous 2 bikes were '80 or later models, they would have had a different alternator that requires a type A ground switching regulator. So, if they were '80 or later models then yes, you would need to do the nylon screw mod to this current bike to make that reg/rec unit function properly.
 
I see from your 1st pic that this current bike has the early '70-'79 type alternator and charging system. This system requires a type B power switching regulator. If your previous 2 bikes were '80 or later models, they would have had a different alternator that requires a type A ground switching regulator. So, if they were '80 or later models then yes, you would need to do the nylon screw mod to this current bike to make that reg/rec unit function properly.

Does the wiring look correct? I have the screws In the mail.
 
I couldn't say as I've never used one of those aftermarket combined reg/rec units. Didn't it come with wiring instructions? Do you have a link to the reg/rec unit you're trying to use here?
 
I couldn't say as I've never used one of those aftermarket combined reg/rec units. Didn't it come with wiring instructions? Do you have a link to the reg/rec unit you're trying to use here?
 

Attachments

  • 755C4511-89E1-491A-8F9F-9D5562559510.jpeg
    755C4511-89E1-491A-8F9F-9D5562559510.jpeg
    202.4 KB · Views: 230
Well, that appears to be the right unit for your bike. If it's not working my best guess is it's defective. It's crazy to be spending $100+ on a unit like that when you can get the same or better results using an automotive regulator and a rectifier from the electronics world for around $30.
 
Well, that appears to be the right unit for your bike. If it's not working my best guess is it's defective. It's crazy to be spending $100+ on a unit like that when you can get the same or better results using an automotive regulator and a rectifier from the electronics world for around $30.

Thats true but when I bought the unit about ten years ago, I was unaware of the cheaper way.
 
Edit- My mistake I don't know enough about this myself yet. I will be doing the homemade rectifier regulator when it's time.
I've done some research and 80tci no need for nylon screws on brushes. From what I understand the bikes prior to 1980 need the nylon screws. For the homemade reg rectifier pre tci nylon after tci no nylon.
Idk what that means for the unit your trying to use but on the one I'm thinking of yo would need nylon screws for the brush on the alternator in the picture.
 
Last edited:
Edit- My mistake I don't know enough about this myself yet. I will be doing the homemade rectifier regulator when it's time.
I've done some research and 80tci no need for nylon screws on brushes. From what I understand the bikes prior to 1980 need the nylon screws. For the homemade reg rectifier pre tci nylon after tci no nylon.
Idk what that means for the unit your trying to use but on the one I'm thinking of yo would need nylon screws for the brush on the alternator in the picture.
I’m going to put the srews in and hope for the best.
 
I've done some research and 80tci no need for nylon screws on brushes. From what I understand the bikes prior to 1980 need the nylon screws. For the homemade reg rectifier pre tci nylon after tci no nylon.
There's a fair bit of misconceptions concerning the nylon screws. Here's what you need to know....

On the 79 and earlier bikes, 1 brush is grounded. That's because it uses the type "B" regulator that controls (switches) power to the rotor on 1 brush. The other (grounded) brush completes the circuit.

On 80 and newer bikes, neither brush is grounded because it uses a type "A" regulator. This type controls (switches) the ground to regulate the rotor power. Battery power feeds 1 brush and the other brush is grounded through the regulator. The only reason you would need a nylon screw is if you used a type "A" regulator on a bike that's wired for a type "B"..... and there's really no need to do that.

The most popular aftermarket regulators are the reliable and inexpensive Fiat and AC Delco regulators. For the 80 and up, you want the Fiat VR-794 regulator. It's the type A.
For 79 and earlier, you want the AC Delco VR-115 regulator. It's the type B.

Order and use the correct regulator for your particular bike and no nylon screws are needed.

EDIT: manufacturers corrected per 5twins comment below.
 
Last edited:
You only need the nylon screw mod if you are trying to use a type A ground switching regulator made for the '80 and later systems on a '70-'79 charging system that normally uses a type B power switching regulator. Along with the nylon screws, you also have to change the way the brushes are wired.

Bpupeza, according to the installation instructions you posted, you have the proper type B power switching regulator for your '70-'79 system. Installing nylon screws won't "fix" it.

Jim, the VR115 isn't a Fiat regulator, normally it's used on older AMC and Jeep vehicles.
 
You only need the nylon screw mod if you are trying to use a type A ground switching regulator made for the '80 and later systems on a '70-'79 charging system that normally uses a type B power switching regulator. Along with the nylon screws, you also have to change the way the brushes are wired.

Bpupeza, according to the installation instructions you posted, you have the proper type B power switching regulator for your '70-'79 system. Installing nylon screws won't "fix" it.

Jim, the VR115 isn't a Fiat regulator, normally it's used on older AMC and Jeep vehicles.

I just swapped that motor from a bike that was charging properly with the old components so unless I have made an error in my wiring than the regulator is bad.
My meter couldn’t get any kind of steady reading. It was all over the place. It was unreadable.
 
OK
I have two 1980 XS 650 SE US Custom both have the older alternator
might differ in Europe
I once before I knew the difference ordered a combined Regulator / Regulator from China
Installed it and it fried directly . It was for the newer generator. I believe it is the regulator that is sensitive.
I got my money back without any problems at all
I have also fried one i bought from USA many years ago

I have at times used 3 pin Bosch regulators and Corresponding rectifier
One advantage was that they had a Control lamp
I have one now and a Chinese rectifier.

Those regulators are also sensitive ..
Connect it wrong and it can be game over.
In this case with non Stock wiring loom I can see a chance that some wires do not have that Color that are stock.
And then the installation instruction is not valid.
And Consequently it is installed the wrong way If you ask me I believe it is over for that regulator
But if you are lucky it is still usable .But a recheck of installation. Must be done.
With more eye on the voltmeter and schematic than the instruction.
Over voltage is not good. But mine usually does not show anything on Down / After side.
Not sure about in English can it be interruption in circuit .As if a wire is cut off

AS for the Bosch parts I don't know if it is adviceable electrically .I Have just installed it and started driving.
And then repair if needed.

Haven't read the instruction so Thoroughly but the old wiring has no Blue wire
Thew new unit has but I don't remember any connection to a Kill Switch
that
Blue to kill run switch for lights, coils, etc.

What wiring and what year model bike can help
 
Thanks to your link I found the perfect diagram that matches my unit. The only thing I am missing is a ground from the green wire of the reg/rec that goes to the brush. I will add that and if that doesn’t work than It is definitely toast.

edit: I just checked the black wire from the brush that the green wire connect to and it is already grounded. Game over. I just bought a vr115 off of ebay and now I have to come up with a rectifier
 
Last edited:
Back
Top