Battery decision.

5twins said:

One thing I have noticed on both bikes is that the charge rate is a few tenths of a volt higher in cold weather.

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Charging a battery involves chemical reactions. The speed of these chemical reactions increase as the temperature rises, similarly the reactions become slower as the temperature is decreased. Lots of regulators have built in temperature compensation. They increase the voltage a few tenths during cold conditions to speed up the chemical reactions thus maintaining a good charging rate. At higher temperature where the charging reactions are faster the voltage regular lowers the charging voltage slightly to prevent overcharging and gassing.

A typical temperature compensation graph:

https://autoelectricalsystems.wordp...in-built-safety-and-temperature-compensation/

I’ve been following this thread as I too was in need of a new battery for my ‘75. I bought the battery that MM had suggested on eBay from Caltric for $45 shipped, cause he’s never steered me wrong yet. Very reasonable price for an AGM sealed battery. Battery came in today and the fit is spot on. Nice and snug in the rubber boot. Terminals are in the correct orientation. I threw it on the trickle charger just now to be sure it is charged. Hope to give it a go this weekend. (Never mind my little helper. He’s always in the way)


A little trick I learned years ago. I cut a small piece of rubber fuel line and squish it under the terminal nut. It keeps the nut from sliding out when hooking up the cables. It will squish down nice and tight once you screw the terminals on too. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve dropped and lost those little nuts over the years.

willis said:

I’ve been following this thread as I too was in need of a new battery for my ‘75. I bought the battery that MM had suggested on eBay from Caltric for $45 shipped, cause he’s never steered me wrong yet. Very reasonable price for an AGM sealed battery. Battery came in today and the fit is spot on. Nice and snug in the rubber boot. Terminals are in the correct orientation. I threw it on the trickle charger just now to be sure it is charged. Hope to give it a go this weekend. (Never mind my little helper. He’s always in the way)
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A little trick I learned years ago. I cut a small piece of rubber fuel line and squish it under the terminal nut. It keeps the nut from sliding out when hooking up the cables. It will squish down nice and tight once you screw the terminals on too. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve dropped and lost those little nuts over the years.
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I like that fuel line tip!

joebgd said:

Ya, after a little research, I'm not doing to bad, with that voltage.

What about this for a headlight bulb? I never had to change my headlight. Can I change the bulb or is the whole unit a 7" light bulb?

https://www.amazon.com/H4-Bombilla-...D8GPB5YT2EE&psc=1&refRID=9VMDQ506TD8GPB5YT2EE

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No, they're shit.
You need one with small LED segments to make most use of the reflector and lens. The original tungsten filaments were in a fairly precise position, so the closer the LEDs get to that, the better. When the filaments / LED elements are in the right position you get a decent beam and don't blind other traffic.
I tried some of the older designs and all they were any good for is lighting up the back yard, but gubber all use on the road.

One like this, for example, will do the job better.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-H...WATG4TAEVQR&psc=1&refRID=0M5ERKAYZWATG4TAEVQR

Got back from the country home, so I'll put in my brush from Ricks. Says made in Taiwan so that might be okay. I had trouble finding nos, so I have one in there now that is long nos, and one right at the limit. So I'll put a Ricks full length and see how she goes. I'll probably try both new Ricks and save the 1 nos for when I find another nos.

Put both Ricks brushes in. After a ride I'm getting 12.6v not running at battery, running idle ab 1400 12.3v, 2500 13.2v, 3000 14.2v. So all seems good, they vary a little depending on how not the bike is or how long of a ride I went on. I'm going to keep an eye on it, actually I mayswell put volt meter on bars im going to look to order one today.

joebgd, if you want to boost your voltage a bit for lower rpm then consider reducing the headlight wattage. My experience was going from H4 55/60 to an H4 35/35 put mine up to V14.2 maximum at about 1800 rpm. This meant good battery charging around town.

I like the AGM batteries. The regular lead acid the over flow causes a lot of rust. AGM's don't.
I've tried the Li-on batteries and didn't like them much. One burnt up the other swelled up a leaked.
The people I got them from wouldn't honor the warranty because of the bike I put it in.
On chargers the real cheap float chargers I don't like. They are not regulated. you have to check the voltage every few hours as they charge.
They can put out up to 17 volts.
I like the Schumacher 1.5 amp 1562 chargers. The older versions have a 6/12 volt switch, later versions it automatic. These have smart charger technology and stop charging when the voltage reaches about 14 volts. Then if left hooked up will turn back on if the voltage drops to low. Not sure what that voltage is.
I also have a Schumacher WM600A. This is a 2, 4, 6 amp charger. I use this on large mc batteries and the garden tractor. This one also has smart charger technology.
It works very well for batteries up to the 27 series deep cycle in my boat.
I never leave any charger hooked up indefinitely. I check often enough so when I find the green light lit I unhook the charger.
I leave the batteries in the bikes, garden tractor and boats year round. I do try to check them during the winter and charge if needed.
On the new battery I follow the instructions that come with them for any preinstall prep. If I do charge before install I use the 1.5 amp charger.
The Schumacher chargers are often found on sale at the Tractor Supply Store for around $30. If you can find them at Wal Mart they can be few bucks cheaper.
These are about the same as the Battery Tender brand but cost less.
Leo

My battery settled in nicely I'm getting 13.6v w key off after a.ride and charging#s are right on.

Edit, battery settled at 12.6v which is fine. Must have been a glitch in the digital tester b4.